A/C Condenser

[OR VietVet]

Ya, no idea why the time for year matters. If you don't know the amount of refrigerant, you use the super heat calculations to determine if over/under filled.
(or replace what you can, and have a shop vacuum and charge)

The time of the year matters because lets say he spends gobs of money fixing and right after that someone slides thru an intersection and plows the vehicle and he gets no use for the money spent where if he waits he will likely get more use later in the year.

 

[HoS]

So, we all just said the same thing.... Neat.

If you do pull the correct vacuum, all the refrigerant will boil off. That is the point, to boil off all "contamination. " (also, keeping it steady proves there isn't a leak.)

So, at any time you can remove and/or replace refrigerants and get the system to work. Ambient temperature having minimal consequence. (as you adjust for the numbers if doing super heat calculations - assuming you aren't so hot or cold that your unit losses it's ability to boil and condense)

Yay?

 

[SLCHOE]

So, we all just said the same thing.... Neat.

If you do pull the correct vacuum, all the refrigerant will boil off. That is the point, to boil off all "contamination. " (also, keeping it steady proves there isn't a leak.)

So, at any time you can remove and/or replace refrigerants and get the system to work. Ambient temperature having minimal consequence. (as you adjust for the numbers if doing super heat calculations - assuming you aren't so hot or cold that your unit losses it's ability to boil and condense)

Yay?

No. We did NOT say the same things.



Not at all.



What I said was the CORRECT method to use.

What YOU said, sounds like you pulled it out of your ass.


1) You recover the refrigerant from the system to get it out of the system and not vent it to the atmosphere. The EPA hates that and requires you to hve a liscence to handle refrigerants.

2) You pull 20-30" of Hg (vacuum) to boil off MOISTURE (H20 and other gasses)in the system. After that time you shut off the vacuum pump and watch your pressure gauges to see if the vacuum holds. If not, you have a leak somewhere.

3) You charge the system according to the label and ADJUST according to the ambient temp/lo/hi pressures.



You are on the right track but are missing very important details. It simply isn't that SIMPLE.

And I have no problem with innocent ignorance. If you don't know then you don't know. I am ok with that.

But you very mistaken.




Here is a link to various temperature/pressure automotive HVAC relation charts that list "AMBIENT TEMP" as a variable (probably because ambient temp doesn't matter).




More:
https://www.google.com/search?q=aut...v&sa=X&ei=NITlVJOMAYnYoATQ4oHICg&ved=0CB0QsAQ

 

[OR VietVet]

Sorry, but SLCHOE is correct. The refrigerant is gone anyways from the hole in condenser. When the vacuum pump is hooked up it will start to suck the system down in to a vacuum where the more inches of vacuum you can pull the better as that is what boils the moisture in there and then pulls out the gas that is created when that happens. At sea level you can get almost right at 30" of vacuum and in Death Valley you can get a little better but around where you are, depending on where that is, anywhere around 25"-27" would be ok for as long as they will let you stay on the pump, hopefully for at least 1 hour and then shut off to see if the vacuum reading stays indicating no leaks. Then do the charge as stated earlier. Best to use the sticker as a guide and then monitor pressures and monitor temp from the center dash vent and best is low fan for the coldest reading because less fan turbulence gives a truer temp reading. Or at least that is what I remember from my a/c days in K.C., Mo. Freekin' humidity. Hated it.

 

[HoS]

Lol, so why do you feel it lists ambient temp?
You do realize you are making my point right?

The ambient temp doesn't matter beacuse you adjust for it. So you can charge when it is 40 or when it is 70. You can do it whenever. You don't need to wait until it is warmer like you said.

It "doesn't matter" because you adjust for it. Reading comprehension my friend.

Oh Yea, epa refrigerant license, like the one I have, universal. Which includes class 1, class 2, class 3, and class 4.

 

[01ssreda4]

You use pressures and temperatures using thermometers and a gauge set to "tune the system" to the current ambient temperature to get the CORRECT charge. That is the only way to do it so the system is operating at it's most efficent state.

Prove you wrong in 2 seconds. So by what you are saying, every AC system in the world is charged with different amounts of freon OR charged incorrectly? Are you truly standing behind that statement. Think before you answer because AC systems are manufactured throughout the year and for lots of different climates....so the AC isn't even suitable for a charge if it was made in Denver but being shipped to TX? Needing to be compensated for temp and all. That's complete silliness and you should be ashamed you said it or implied it.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

Sooo, anyways guys, I'm getting the system charged this weekend. My mech is doing it for $45. We'll see after that what happens. If it ***** up, he'll fix it at no charge to me. He put in my compressor and other parts sometime last year I think if I remember correctly.

 

[OR VietVet]

You guys can continue this name calling and bickering. I am checking out. I too put in my $.02 but never got to the name calling or telling anyone they had no idea what they are talking about. I hope the OP got the info he/she needs and hope the repair goes well.

 

[HoS]

Sooo, anyways guys, I'm getting the system charged this weekend. My mech is doing it for $45. We'll see after that what happens. If it ***** up, he'll fix it at no charge to me. He put in my compressor and other parts sometime last year I think if I remember correctly.

That seems like a very fair price! Glad everything worked out.

---------- Post added at 03:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:25 AM ----------

P. S. You don't need a license for automotive refrigerants. That is why you can buy it at a local store. You can't however buy the banned refrigerants, without a license.

 

[SLCHOE]

Lol, so why do you feel it lists ambient temp?
You do realize you are making my point right?

The ambient temp doesn't matter beacuse you adjust for it. So you can charge when it is 40 or when it is 70. You can do it whenever. You don't need to wait until it is warmer like you said.

It "doesn't matter" because you adjust for it. Reading comprehension my friend.

Oh Yea, epa refrigerant license, like the one I have, universal. Which includes class 1, class 2, class 3, and class 4.

If you look at the chart smarty pants, if you go below 65F your low pressure gauge would start falling near the 0 psi limit. Get cold enough and your pressures become unreliable. That is why it matters. Is that really that hard a concept to grasp?

Prove you wrong in 2 seconds. So by what you are saying, every AC system in the world is charged with different amounts of freon OR charged incorrectly? Are you truly standing behind that statement. Think before you answer because AC systems are manufactured throughout the year and for lots of different climates....so the AC isn't even suitable for a charge if it was made in Denver but being shipped to TX? Needing to be compensated for temp and all. That's complete silliness and you should be ashamed you said it or implied it.

How bout you re-read what I said carefully instead of having me explain it to you again.