A leak on the parking brake passenger side

[watuzi]

Hi folks,
I need help diagnosing a leak in my passenger side rear parking brake. I just recently changed my rear brakes and I noticed the rear passenger side parking brake was all wet with what I will assume as brake fluid. Both of the parking brakes on the passenger side were really wet. Is it safe to assume that the brake cylinder as the main cause of the leak? I'm very bad a diagnosing but good at replacing parts. Any help is greatly appreciated. Happy New Year to all!

 

[Scottydoggs]

im going with a bad axle seal, see if it stinks real bad, (the fluid) if it does its diff fluid.

if you have e brake pads that means you have a rotor, e brake is all cable driven, back to the axle seal.....

 

[HiHoeSilver]

im going with a bad axle seal, see if it stinks real bad, (the fluid) if it does its diff fluid.

if you have e brake pads that means you have a rotor, e brake is all cable driven, back to the axle seal.....

Yup. No fluid for them there e brakes.

 

[watuzi]

OK, thanks guy I'm gonna check Youtube if I can replace the axle seals myself if it's not too difficult.

 

[Scottydoggs]

its not a picnic but can be done in the driveway all diy style. lots of vids out there on how to get the axle out. once you get the brakes off you should be able see the leak. and confirm its the seal leaking.

 

[swathdiver]

Edmund, do you have disc or drum brakes back there? If you have drum brakes, there will be a wheel cylinder that can leak. To check for an axle seal leak, you'll need to look behind the axle shaft (plate with wheel studs) and see if it is wet back or under there. If so, you have to remove the differential cover, pull the differential pinion shaft, remove the c-clip and then pull the axle out so you can then remove and replace the seal. Obviously, you'll need new differential fluid and maybe a gasket if yours is worn.

There's photos and posts here and on youtube.

 

[watuzi]

Edmund, do you have disc or drum brakes back there? If you have drum brakes, there will be a wheel cylinder that can leak. To check for an axle seal leak, you'll need to look behind the axle shaft (plate with wheel studs) and see if it is wet back or under there. If so, you have to remove the differential cover, pull the differential pinion shaft, remove the c-clip and then pull the axle out so you can then remove and replace the seal. Obviously, you'll need new differential fluid and maybe a gasket if yours is worn.

There's photos and posts here and on youtube.

Yeah, I have an '04 4.8L 2WD Tahoe, it has disc brakes on all wheels. I read the Haynes manual and I don't if I can replace it myself. I will definitely have to watch several Youtube videos for sure. Thanks for all the help.

 

[SnowDrifter]

its not a picnic but can be done in the driveway all diy style. lots of vids out there on how to get the axle out. once you get the brakes off you should be able see the leak. and confirm its the seal leaking.

Axle seals are easy. Seriously. Don't be scares of it.

If you can change your rear diff cover gasket and do brakes then you can do your axle seals!

Jack the car up, pull the diff cover off. Whole that's draining, remove your rear brakes, rotors included. Ebrake hardware can stay there.

To back to the diff, put the car in neutral if you've not done so already, spin the diff until you can get to the 8mm bolt holding the center pin on place. Remove the bolt, push the center pin through, then set them aside.

From there, push your axles in towards the center of the vehicle and fish the c clip out with a magnet. You may need a bungie cord to hold it in as the seal can push the axle out just enough you can't release that clip.

If memory serves you don't need to fuss with the rear wheel speed sensors

From there, just pull the entire axle straight out. Pop the seal out with a screwdriver, minding that you don't gouge the axle tube.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do rear wheel bearings too while you're here. Check seat depth with a micrometer then remove them with a blind hole puller. They're just lightly pressed in.

Install the bearing if you chose to go that route, noting the depth with that you measure before. Remember to apply some grease or diff oil to them so they're not dry until the differentials own lubricating system takes over.

Install the wheel seal with a seal driver or flat piece of wood.

Put your axle back in, reinstall the c clip, install the center pin, and install the retaining bolt with new loctite. Clean up the threads with brake clean or carb cleaner so the thread locker has a nice clean surface to work with.

Toss the brakes on, install the rear diff cover with gasket of choice, then fill your rear diff.

Drop the car, torque your wheels, then take a few hard left and right turns to splash some lube up there and you're good to go


While process start to finish should take your around 3 hours

 

[CountryBoy19]

Axle seals are easy. Seriously. Don't be scares of it.

If you can change your rear diff cover gasket and do brakes then you can do your axle seals!

Jack the car up, pull the diff cover off. Whole that's draining, remove your rear brakes, rotors included. Ebrake hardware can stay there.

To back to the diff, put the car in neutral if you've not done so already, spin the diff until you can get to the 8mm bolt holding the center pin on place. Remove the bolt, push the center pin through, then set them aside.

From there, push your axles in towards the center of the vehicle and fish the c clip out with a magnet. You may need a bungie cord to hold it in as the seal can push the axle out just enough you can't release that clip.

If memory serves you don't need to fuss with the rear wheel speed sensors

From there, just pull the entire axle straight out. Pop the seal out with a screwdriver, minding that you don't gouge the axle tube.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do rear wheel bearings too while you're here. Check seat depth with a micrometer then remove them with a blind hole puller. They're just lightly pressed in.

Install the bearing if you chose to go that route, noting the depth with that you measure before. Remember to apply some grease or diff oil to them so they're not dry until the differentials own lubricating system takes over.

Install the wheel seal with a seal driver or flat piece of wood.

Put your axle back in, reinstall the c clip, install the center pin, and install the retaining bolt with new loctite. Clean up the threads with brake clean or carb cleaner so the thread locker has a nice clean surface to work with.

Toss the brakes on, install the rear diff cover with gasket of choice, then fill your rear diff.

Drop the car, torque your wheels, then take a few hard left and right turns to splash some lube up there and you're good to go


While process start to finish should take your around 3 hours

Only a couple things to add:

Don't grease the bearings, after installing bearings (if you do new bearings) squirt some gear lube in the bearings and the space behind them just prior to putting the axles back. I'm not convinced sharp turns will splash lube out to the end of the axles. The carrier bearings mostly block the oil path; it has to slowly work out there over time so lube those parts well before installing axles just to be sure. Note: the only recommended way I can think of to get that oil out there is to tilt the car to one side for several hours then to the other side for several hours.

The OE brake dust shields are 1-piece and require axle removal to replace. If yours are starting to disintegrate just replace them while the axles are out. It does add a bit more work bc you have to tear the e-brake apart but its easier to do it now with the axles out.

 

[watuzi]

Axle seals are easy. Seriously. Don't be scares of it.

If you can change your rear diff cover gasket and do brakes then you can do your axle seals!

Jack the car up, pull the diff cover off. Whole that's draining, remove your rear brakes, rotors included. Ebrake hardware can stay there.

To back to the diff, put the car in neutral if you've not done so already, spin the diff until you can get to the 8mm bolt holding the center pin on place. Remove the bolt, push the center pin through, then set them aside.

From there, push your axles in towards the center of the vehicle and fish the c clip out with a magnet. You may need a bungie cord to hold it in as the seal can push the axle out just enough you can't release that clip.

If memory serves you don't need to fuss with the rear wheel speed sensors

From there, just pull the entire axle straight out. Pop the seal out with a screwdriver, minding that you don't gouge the axle tube.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do rear wheel bearings too while you're here. Check seat depth with a micrometer then remove them with a blind hole puller. They're just lightly pressed in.

Install the bearing if you chose to go that route, noting the depth with that you measure before. Remember to apply some grease or diff oil to them so they're not dry until the differentials own lubricating system takes over.

Install the wheel seal with a seal driver or flat piece of wood.

Put your axle back in, reinstall the c clip, install the center pin, and install the retaining bolt with new loctite. Clean up the threads with brake clean or carb cleaner so the thread locker has a nice clean surface to work with.

Toss the brakes on, install the rear diff cover with gasket of choice, then fill your rear diff.

Drop the car, torque your wheels, then take a few hard left and right turns to splash some lube up there and you're good to go


While process start to finish should take your around 3 hours

Thanks for the detailed steps. You can do it in three hours, but it will probably take me the whole weekend to do it.