A Sticky for New PPV/SSV Owners To Re-Civilianize Our Tahoes

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bobo49505

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The whole dang fuse box? How did you end up finding out it was the fuse box?
I tested the lamps, the wiring and tested both sides of the reverse fuse and read some forum posts then got a junk yard fuse panel and installed it and the lights worked.
 
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jmm121783

jmm121783

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I think a lot of wires get cut when they start decommissioning these trucks and transferring what LEO equipment will work on the new vehicle.

My CEL was cut somewhere, that really sucks. Also had an issue with my right rear taillight not "glowing" when the parking lights or headlights are on. This is illegal since the right rear tail would be completely black at night until you stepped on the brake or used the right blinker. Fixed it by running a jumper line from the left side to the right.
 
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jmm121783

jmm121783

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To turn off AFM you need a tune or a Range AFM delete

To turn on the remote start I had to buy as an Accessory , the remote start option. At which point it consisted of 2 new remotes and instructions for the dealer, with a code number and 800 number to call. I left my SSV at the dealer they had to call GM with that code number and in return they get a different number to enter into the tech2 I think the guy on the phone questioned as to why they were adding remote start because it was a fire chiefs car. Luckily it only cost 65 buck to program the BCM and remotes . The Gm kit on Ebay was 225.00 cheaper than the dealer.

good luck!


Is there a part number for this kit or a write up somewhere? I am DYING to get AUTOSTART in my 09, made it through this winter but I will not go through another winter without Auto start for my Hoe. I really don't like the aftermarket stuff and would prefer a GM kit with standard GM keyfobs. LMK buddy thanks!!
 

2011SSVHOE

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Is there a part number for this kit or a write up somewhere? I am DYING to get AUTOSTART in my 09, made it through this winter but I will not go through another winter without Auto start for my Hoe. I really don't like the aftermarket stuff and would prefer a GM kit with standard GM keyfobs. LMK buddy thanks!!

GM part #19154444 is for my 2011
 

Joeyhosmanole

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@Joeyhosmanole I’m in the same boat as you with the inop reverse lights. Has anyone else experienced this?

Fixed this as follows below, hopefully you can do similar or find a better solution:

Removed tail light assembly. Found that the brake light is the light blue wire going to the top bulb in the terminal marked "Major".

All the tail light wires including the light blue brake light wire trace to a harness going into a TFCM near the spare tire, which is a Trailer Brake and Fuel Pump Control Module.

No voltage on the light blue wire after the TFCM to the tail light when the brake is pressed. But on the front side of the TFCM the light blue/white wire reads 12v when brake is pressed.

So I jumped a splice clamp from the light blue/white going into the FTCM directly to the lightblue wire going into the "major" terminal on the top bulb on eash side bypassing the FTCM.

And boom. Brake lights now working. Tail lights, turn signals - all good.

Edit: Total cost $approx. $10 for splice clamps, 18 gauge wire, and wire conduit

Edit #2 4/9/18: After going through all this above I found a better solution. A number of wires at the BCM contained aftermarket splices. I removed the aftermarket splices at various BCM terminals, restoring the factory wiring. And now the brake lights work from factory wiring without the mess I described above. This includes the top center light bar, also needed to place a 15A fuse in #49 under the hood. I hope this helps, either method will get you there.
 
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jmm121783

jmm121783

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GM part #19154444 is for my 2011
Thanks buddy, am I remembering right that you need to have a certain RPO code to even "add" the remote start without some crazy hard work or swapping harnesses. Is it like the fog light/rear view mirrors w/ power fold&puddle light deal, where you need the Civilian wiring harness to make these "plug and play"?s

LMK I will try to do my own research as well! Its hard to go back to my HHR SS, it feels like a Go-kart compared to the Tahoe, plus the Tahoe is so "easy" to drive lol

FYI I found the answer.....You MUST have RPO Code "AP8" (check you glove box RPO list) in order for this to work. Honestly I am so stoked this is literally a key-fob upgrade and a reprogram code that must be done at the dealer.

Normally I cringe at anything with the world "dealer" in it, but I have "a guy" at the local spot that goes above and beyond for me. He changed EVERY SINGLE FLUID in the truck FOR FREE! I hooked him up with ~$300 in goods, consultation and gear that he was super happy to have so it was a WIN-WIN and he's hoping this week he can get the 'Hoe in to install these B-E-A-utiful BILSTEINS 5100s installed, new sway end links and a few other random quirks I need fixed. Maybe I can get this kit in time for him to reprogram me at the same time!! STOKED, thanks again guys!!

******UPDATE******
Purchased that Keyless kit #19154444 that was posted earlier, got it for $200 off of Ebay, NEW and the seller was amazing to deal with. Received it today, cant wait for my dealership buddy (needs to be reprog & calling GM to get a special code specific to that VIN only), to get some extra time cause boy do I have a list of goodies/fixes/upgrades for him and the 'Hoe!! So excited, she will be almost like a new truck to me :D (suspension)
 
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DEpstein

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Lots of great info here but after reading this entire thread I’m still kinda lost at what I’m supposed to do to get my Auto headlights, DRL, remote start and headlights with door unlock working again.

I’ve read about a dealer “re-flash/flash” to get it back to normal functions but every local dealer “doesn’t know or I’ve never heard of that”.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

Nathan Morrison

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Did anyone ever upgrade to a nicer rear view mirror, I am looking for one that has an "auto dim" feature, I really like that. Anything else that would work is just an extra. (One that does hook up to the front dome light bezel 'stuff' ?) I have a 2013 Tahoe SSV

Posting because I didn't see an answer to your question. I installed one off again just find 12v constant off the dome light. Didn't need to change out the mount on the windshield. 20 minute install.

Gentex 50-GENK2AM Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHLM3EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_guWXCb3C8NMSR
 
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jmm121783

jmm121783

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Back from the dead!! LOL....Sorry working on the Tahoe has been basically NIL for about 10 months after I bought my V almost a year ago. However, the cold weather has arrived and the V is being stashed for the next few months which means the focus switches back to the Tahoe for the next 3-4 months. With that in mind here is what is one my list and what I am up to right now.

1) Just received a Yukon XL 1500 center console with the rear controls. I understand getting the rear controls to work on a PPV/SSV is next to impossible as we are missing the wiring harness I believe? I went through and cleaned out the console, taking the entire thing apart. They actually included the BOSE amp. Funny thing, I already bought a BOSE Amp and the stock subwoofer from a forum member over a year ago and am finally getting around to hopefully getting it installed, only problem, to install the center console I MUST purchase a used set of front seats since I have the bench style front with jump seat/3 cup holder. Checking the part numbers on the two amps I realize that there are AT LEAST TWO DIFFERENT types of BOSE amps hidden within the center consoles. Luckily only a couple of the cables were cut, one of the two connectors that go to that rear seat HVAC/Audio controls and the rear 12v power outlet...I can easily cut, resolder and insert the 12v power line no problem. The rear HVAC/Audio controls aren't going to work anyway so I'm not worried about that. Weird thing I could use help with, there is a USB cable that is inside of my center console, it runs separate from the harness and has a male connector that ends under where the cup holders are. I am wonder if this is supposed to go up to the NAV Headunit?

2) I installed the NAV Headunit and it works but the volume is really low. I purchased a PAC unit which is supposed to fix this and I need to get that installed which I am going to try to do tomorrow. I did install the GPS Antenna under the front dash piece but am having issues getting it to work. Waiting to here back from my GM buddy to find out if it needs to be activated or not, kinda surprised it didn't work right after getting plugged in. Maybe it needs to be plugged in for awhile to "sync" with the GPS satellites? Hoping the PAC unit fixes the volume issue, it should also be the last thing besides the actual camera I need to get a rear view camera working on this truck. I actually have a new Rear View Mirror with the built in LCD but if the NAV unit displays it I might just go ahead and forget about replacing the rear view in favor of the bigger picture on the NAV unit.

3) Hoping to install rear tweeters in the back D pillars, I noticed the connectors are much smaller than the front tweeters in the A pillars, I thought they were all the same tweeters.

4) Was working all afternoon on getting the REAR HVAC working properly. When I press the "Rear" button on the HVAC controls it turns on fine but I can not get the blend motors working correctly. After A LOT OF SWEARING I finally got one of the two motors removed and replaced and still couldn't get either of the two doors to move when I changed temps/air blowing locations. I noticed my AC button was blinking and wouldn't stay on, wondering if I lost my charge or something, can't figure that out since I just recently replaced the condenser and got a charge. AC was working fine this summer so I'm sort of baffled on that one. Either way HEAT and AC get to that rear blower unit, I just cannot get those damn blend doors working (it seems). Is there a "re-learn" procedure for these does anyone know?

5) Need to get my rear doors functioning!

Happy Holidays everyone!
 

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