I have an '02 Tahoe w/ Autoride and Traction Assist. I was having the tranny checked and they told me I had some stored codes, among them P1571 and P1689, which appear to be traction control related. While checking fuses I noticed that the ABS 30A fuse was missing. I bought one and the moment i plugged it in the ABS pump [I assume] started running. It was loud and continued after I shut the engine off. I guess I found out why the fuse was pulled. Is this a symptom of the problem this repair is about?
ABS & Brake Light Fix
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I just tried to remove the brake module this afternoon. The first torx came off nicely. The second one, closest to the frame rail, is not so easy. I was using my 1/4" ratchet, but it was extremely difficult to keep the torx square on the head so the torx head has started to round out. I suspect it's going to be easiest to remove the brake lines from the module, then remove the entire module so I can remove the board.
Anyone else have this trouble? Is this the best approach?
Anyone else have this trouble? Is this the best approach?
PatDTN
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On larger bolts than these I would weld a nut on top of the stripped head. Not a good idea here plus I don't know what your clearance is. If you can see it clearly that helps.
First thing to try MIGHT be to find a Snap-On torx tool for this. Their tools at least in the past were much more accurately made and that can make a difference.
If that doesn't work out get a spare torx bit and some JB Weld. Clean the head of the screw carefully, mix up some JB Weld, and dip the tip of the torx bit in it to get a good coating then put it wet into the screw and let it set up. Make sure you're not gluing the screw in!
I'd think hard before rmoving the brake lines right there. You probably need something special to bleed any air away from there.
Thanks! I totally forgot about the JB weld trick! I haven't used that is decades, but it totally makes sense here. I looked at the prices of a Snap-On set from Amazon, and $355 is a little out of my range of affordability. If this were my profession, I would probably consider it.
Larry
PatDTN
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I know they're expensive. I was thinking just a couple of the smallest ones; T10, T20, T25. Good luck.
OmniCamaro
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Are you replacing the entire unit? If not, there is no need to remove any brake lines.
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OmniCamaro
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See my post in this other thread. Maybe it will be helpful once you get the part off.
<a href="http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/abs-module-removal-2001-yukon-xl.68341/#post-917036">ABS Module removal 2001 Yukon XL?</a>
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<a href="http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/abs-module-removal-2001-yukon-xl.68341/#post-917036">ABS Module removal 2001 Yukon XL?</a>
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Thanks Allen,
I looked at your link, and I believe I tried all that, using a torx bit in a socket on a 1/4" ratchet. I probably didn't clean the torx head out well enough, but I still think the bigger problem I was having was that I couldn't sense when the torx was sitting square on the torx head, so it kept twisting out. It was much easier keeping the near torx square on. Pat's suggestion is probably best for now, for the torx bolt I may have damaged. I'll try using some Deep Creep or something like that to clean the heads of the remaining bolts to help ensure the torx bit fits more deeply into the head.
Larry
Edit:
I had a good look at the torx heads with a mirror and the ones nearest the frame were badly corroded. The T20 wouldn't fit into the head even after cleaning with Deep Creep and scraping with a tiny screwdriver. I read on some other forums to check the ground bolt first so I will check that out. I will also try Pat's suggestion because at the very least I want change out the bolts if at all possible.
I read somewhere that one guy managed to cut slots into the heads. I couldn't seem to get my dremel tool (with the snake attachment) to get close to the bolt. I fear that if I am not successful with Pat's method I'll be detaching lines and finding someone to bleed the ABS unit.
Larry
I looked at your link, and I believe I tried all that, using a torx bit in a socket on a 1/4" ratchet. I probably didn't clean the torx head out well enough, but I still think the bigger problem I was having was that I couldn't sense when the torx was sitting square on the torx head, so it kept twisting out. It was much easier keeping the near torx square on. Pat's suggestion is probably best for now, for the torx bolt I may have damaged. I'll try using some Deep Creep or something like that to clean the heads of the remaining bolts to help ensure the torx bit fits more deeply into the head.
Larry
Edit:
I had a good look at the torx heads with a mirror and the ones nearest the frame were badly corroded. The T20 wouldn't fit into the head even after cleaning with Deep Creep and scraping with a tiny screwdriver. I read on some other forums to check the ground bolt first so I will check that out. I will also try Pat's suggestion because at the very least I want change out the bolts if at all possible.
I read somewhere that one guy managed to cut slots into the heads. I couldn't seem to get my dremel tool (with the snake attachment) to get close to the bolt. I fear that if I am not successful with Pat's method I'll be detaching lines and finding someone to bleed the ABS unit.
Larry
Last edited:
MPDano
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Hence why I haven't tackled this one yet. Seems to be a big pain just to get the unit off due to limited space.
bottomline2000
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Check out my post from 0ct'14. I had the same problem and it's a bad relay in the module that makes the abs pump run constantly. I had abs and brake lights randomly coming on as well. I used someone online to fix it since mine seemed more complicated to fix. Almost 2 years later and no dash lights and no abs pump issues..
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