ABS/ Brake light Question

[Blk00ss]

Hungry mice, clumsy mechanics are common causes for damaged wires.

Corrosion inside the fuse box connections can also cause a lot of electrical headaches.
Mouse urine and droppings are really corrosive, if they ever got in the fuse box to set up house...

Lift the box out and give a good inspection inside, top and bottom. See if anything jumps out at you as a possible problem with terminals, connectors or damaged wires.

I was just curious.

I'm gonna get down to my closest HF today and get a scanner. Really hope it points me in the right direction.

 

[MassHoe04]

I was just curious.

I'm gonna get down to my closest HF today and get a scanner. Really hope it points me in the right direction.

No worries. I wasn't looking to answer for @purp.
I was just speculating on what comes up fairly often with fuse box/wire issues and what you might look out for.

Glad to see you are looking to grab a scanner from HF. For the money, it can tell you a lot of information that can help work through diagnosing what is going on.
I was able to use mine to read the code tripping the ABS light was specifically the left front speed sensor sending no signal. It was not an active code. It was stored and was listed as C0035.
Somehow, I managed to find a submenu that was listed as "GM OEM Enhanced", which listed pretty much every code recorded.

 

[Blk00ss]

No worries. I wasn't looking to answer for @purp.
I was just speculating on what comes up fairly often with fuse box/wire issues and what you might look out for.

Glad to see you are looking to grab a scanner from HF. For the money, it can tell you a lot of information that can help work through diagnosing what is going on.
I was able to use mine to read the code tripping the ABS light was specifically the left front speed sensor sending no signal. It was not an active code. It was stored and was listed as C0035.
Somehow, I managed to find a submenu that was listed as "GM OEM Enhanced", which listed pretty much every code recorded.

Good to know. I won't lie, after the two fails with two different autoparts stores, I'm reluctant to buy a cheap scanner. These lights go off after every key cycle, so of course I wondered, does the code have to be actively on, or are their scanners just the cheapest of the cheap? I see this HF scanner specifically says it'll pull and clear ABS codes, so I'm really hoping it works for this specific situation. Really hoping it'll point me to a bad wheel sensor or something else fairly simple.

 

[Rocket Man]

Good to know. I won't lie, after the two fails with two different autoparts stores, I'm reluctant to buy a cheap scanner. These lights go off after every key cycle, so of course I wondered, does the code have to be actively on, or are their scanners just the cheapest of the cheap? I see this HF scanner specifically says it'll pull and clear ABS codes, so I'm really hoping it works for this specific situation. Really hoping it'll point me to a bad wheel sensor or something else failry simple.

Good luck, looking forward to the results of the scanner.

 

[Mooseman93]

Not en expert here by any stretch, but I will add my vote to the solder problem inside the ABS module. Both lights on, intermittent. I'd be surprised if you weren't also experiencing ABS kicking in at very low speeds when you're almost stopped (ironically preventing you from stopping completely, or at least stopping later than you wanted to.)
I think the caliper issue is unrelated.

 

[NardDog]

Our '05 with 175K on it has started doing this. Brakes work great, no change when this light comes on. Just did a front/ rear brakes a few weeks ago. I can disconnect battery and get the light to turn off for a few days, but then it comes right back. I went ahead and cleaned the two ground connections under driver side door. We don't live up north and our truck is quite clean, but I cleaned them up anyway. Light still comes on. Can this be a wheel sensor? Or is this definitely EBCM related? I don't solder (I suck at it), so I'd probably consider a new or reman one. But, do they require a reflash?

I'll just vent for a second...these vehicles now days run forever. Maybe thats part of the reason vehicles are so expensive these days. But as I've stated for many years...its not the mechanical stuff that craps out. Its everything around it.

View attachment 384305

Sorry I didn’t read all the posts to see if this was answered. I had this issue and was able to fix it. You need to remove the abs sensor under the truck and below the driver seat area. Then pry the lid off the unit and you will see a circuit board with lots of soldering. Take a solder gun and solder and touch up all the solder points. I had to do this twice since I didn’t touch all of them. Basically the solder points get brittle and break. Finally using some gasket maker around the lid put it back on and reinstall.

 

[Doubeleive]

Not en expert here by any stretch, but I will add my vote to the solder problem inside the ABS module. Both lights on, intermittent. I'd be surprised if you weren't also experiencing ABS kicking in at very low speeds when you're almost stopped (ironically preventing you from stopping completely, or at least stopping later than you wanted to.)
I think the caliper issue is unrelated.

if the issue is the module, then no there will not be any abs kickback, it simply will fault out the cluster lamps and make the brakes work old school

 

[Doubeleive]

Good to know. I won't lie, after the two fails with two different autoparts stores, I'm reluctant to buy a cheap scanner. These lights go off after every key cycle, so of course I wondered, does the code have to be actively on, or are their scanners just the cheapest of the cheap? I see this HF scanner specifically says it'll pull and clear ABS codes, so I'm really hoping it works for this specific situation. Really hoping it'll point me to a bad wheel sensor or something else failry simple.

again scan it with the lights on, engine running, before you shut it off and it clears it's self, you will likely get a U00xxx code (module fault), could be B00 code but I think those are airbag codes

 

[Blk00ss]

again scan it with the lights on, engine running, before you shut it off and it clears it's self, you will likely get a U00xxx code (module fault), could be B00 code but I think those are airbag codes

I appreciate the advice. Wasn't sure if the vehicle had to be off, then cycled on or if you could actually run diagnostic while running.

 

[purp]

You mean the main fuse block under the hood? How did they get damaged? Just curious

The culprit was found stiff under the fuse block.. I was gonna move my cat to live under my hood until the mouse problem was alleviated.