Abs delete

[DallasTahoe]

So I tried the fuse pulling method and didn’t really notice a difference, so I went home and readjusted the rear brakes, then bled all four with the fuse still out of the abs module and they feel even more squishy. I put the fuse back in and they feel ok now.


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[DallasTahoe]

Also I left the top off of the brake reservoir and pushed the brakes a lil and it did nothing! Before when I’ve done that on other vehicles it blew brake fluid everywhere. So I started pumping the brakes slowly and every few pumps maybe 5 to 10 then it would spurt out fluid from the back part of the reservoir only and every now and then from the front part of the reservoir. Is this normal? I think not but I just want to make sure


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[east302]

This isn't going to be very helpful, but if you're seeing air bubbles then that may mean that the master cylinder wasn't bench bled well enough. Try jacking up the back so that the front end of the master cylinder is lower than the booster side and slowly pump the brakes to get air out.

Not sure about a big ass stream, though. I want to say that it's normal and vaguely remember my truck doing that.

 

[rabbiporkchop]

you pulled the abs unit out? and just ran brake lines?

Yes, plus a new proportioning valve for the rear disc brakes.

 

[rabbiporkchop]

So you removed the whole abs module or just the fuse?


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No more ABS module. I needed room for the LSX computer.

 

[DallasTahoe]

So just to check it off my list of things to get a better pedal I bought a new MC, and I’m bench bleeding it now, but I found that because this is a step bore design the bleeding procedure is different and plus I devised a way to do that procedure a lot better. Since I’m a woodworker my bench vice wouldn’t work, (different kind than a metal one. ) so I didn’t use a vice at all, I actually used a wood clamp to push the plunger in about 3/4-1” and while it’s pushed in, I pick up the MC and move it around while tapping the body of it with a screwdriver. It works extraordinarily well to get the air bubbles moving to where they need to go which is out! That added with this new bleed procedure is far and away better than what I did a couple weeks ago when I put this other MC on.


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[rabbiporkchop]

I just use my vacuum pump to suck the air bubbles through the system. Every 6 months or so I'll crack open the bleeder screws on the calipers and suck the dirty fluid out and top it off with clean fluid.

 

[Rocket Man]

I just use my vacuum pump to suck the air bubbles through the system. Every 6 months or so I'll crack open the bleeder screws on the calipers and suck the dirty fluid out and top it off with clean fluid.

Use a Motiv pressure bleeder and you'll wonder why you never bought one before. It attaches to the mc and you fill it with up to 1/2 gallon of fluid , pump it up by hand and you can bleed all 4 brakes just by putting a clear tube on the bleeders and cracking them open. The mc automatically stays full. Watch the fluid and bubbles flow out. So easy it's ridiculous.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Use a Motiv pressure bleeder and you'll wonder why you never bought one before. It attaches to the mc and you fill it with up to 1/2 gallon of fluid , pump it up by hand and you can bleed all 4 brakes just by putting a clear tube on the bleeders and cracking them open. The mc automatically stays full. Watch the fluid and bubbles flow out. So easy it's ridiculous.

I think i asked this before, but what about the abs module? Are you activating it somehow?

 

[Rocket Man]

I think i asked this before, but what about the abs module? Are you activating it somehow?

I didn't replace my mc and never let air through it by letting the fluid go empty so my abs stayed full. I've just replaced calipers and the lines at the wheels. I'm not sure how to bleed the abs module but the Motiv should work for it if you figure how.