ABS Light With No Codes

[drdave81]

I think the flashing light is related to the O2 sensor. Fix it and see.

I'm curious to know how you think the ABS light can be turned on by an O2 code? Doesn't sound right to me. Yes, I'd still get the O2 fixed, but they're mutually exclusive systems. A sensor monitoring the exhaust gasses is not going to make an anti-lock brake light come on.
What OP is describing sounds more like a wheel speed sensor issue. At higher speeds, it can no longer read wheel speed and kicks the light. Older non-OBD systems were not required to always store a code, depending on what fault was occurring. So if the fault is not active, there may not be a code. You could try driving above 55, with a scan tool connected. When the light comes on, see if there is a code then. If you have a scan tool with data read capability, you can also read wheel speeds, see if one is off from the others.

 

[MassHoe04]

Update:

I have no idea how an O2 sensor would do anything with the ABS light/chime activation, but... Here is what has happened since O2 sensor replacement...

As of last night, I have replaced the downstream O2 sensors on both sides and swapped the 20" rims (with 285/50 tires) for some stock 16" Silverado rims. They currently have 245/75 tires on there, but that is only to buy me time until I get some 265/75 all-terrains in a few months.

I cleared the P0159. Drove about 10 miles around town last night and another 30 on the highway this morning.

No CEL or codes. O2 sensors doing fine.

When on the highway this morning (55+ MPH), the ABS light/chime did not come on as soon as it did before. It was coming on within a mile after getting up to highway speed.

Today... When it did come on it was a quick one for a couple of seconds before it went off.

It only did the really quick light/chime only 4 times in 30 miles. Maybe the system is beginning to recalibrate itself? The majority of the half-hour drive, the ABS light was off and was quiet. I'll see what happens on the way home.

I did not have the chance to pull any of the ABS sensors to clean them or brush any corrosion off the hub yet.

I'll keep you posted on any further developments.

 

[MassHoe04]

Update:
Sunday 11/7...
ABS light and chime still flashing, staying on a while, turns off for brief stretches and the cycle repeats for as long as I am driving over 55 MPH. Get off the highway, driving local roads 30 - 45 MPH and everything is peaceful again.

New downstream O2 sensors cleared that code, which has remained off for two days.

I think at this point, I can rule out the possibility that the O2 sensors or the CEL code they created had anything to do with what the ABS light/chime is doing. Not related.

I am due for new brakes. I will start with replacing the front pads and rotors. I'll be removing the ABS sensors to clean them of any debris and will brush off any rust that may be on the hub. See if that does anything. If not, front ABS sensors are really pretty cheap. I may just buy new front sensors with my front brakes anyway. No sense in taking rotors off twice for $30-40 bucks. Not worth the added time...

 

[Fless]

In what condition are the upstream O2 sensors?

 

[MassHoe04]

In what condition are the upstream O2 sensors?

Upstreams are working OK. No fault codes. Engine seems to be running nice and smooth. They are on my list to replace, but not until after I am done with brakes and resolving my ABS sensor. The chime dinging loudly every few seconds for a half-hour drive to work is driving me batty! Thankfully, the highway commute is only on weekends for my part-time job...

 

[MassHoe04]

Update:
Still haven't gotten to pulling ABS sensors and scrubbing the hubs. But...
Still getting "Tighten Gas Cap" message on the info. center.

ABS light/chimes continue on the highway above 55 MPH.

Get the occasional no crank, but that is likely the PassCode sensor on the ignition. Still starts after a couple turns of the key.
I'll get to replacing the part for that later.

Most recent weirdness involves the factory radio with SiriusXM/NAV display. I turned the key and the PassCode no-crank thing happened. When it did start, the Radio was now on SiriusXM channel 2.
Looks like I'll be checking the ground connections on my next day off (Friday).

Maybe the grounds have a hand in multiple conditions I am seeing.

I'll let you know this weekend, what happens.

 

[Doubeleive]

your abs issue is most likely a wheel hub, it is a isolated system, not sure how @swathdiver associated it with a 02 sensor?
small chance cleaning the sensor will fix the issue, it is sometimes the case but is more common given the mileage that the wheel hub or hubs need to be replaced, usually when one goes the other is not far behind.
if you do have a scanner that can read live data then load up the abs sensor screen and watch for the erratic one at speed, that will be your bad one.
other potential issue's are, cracked solder on the abs module board but normally what happens then is the abs light will come on solid once you have hit a bump in the road after key on and will stay lit until key-off, then with key-on it will clear because it has contact again until you hit the next bump in the road.
a bad ground would do the same thing-throw a solid abs light, not a flickering one that then goes away while key-on still

 

[MassHoe04]

your abs issue is most likely a wheel hub, it is a isolated system, not sure how @swathdiver associated it with a 02 sensor?
small chance cleaning the sensor will fix the issue, it is sometimes the case but is more common given the mileage that the wheel hub or hubs need to be replaced, usually when one goes the other is not far behind.
if you do have a scanner that can read live data then load up the abs sensor screen and watch for the erratic one at speed, that will be your bad one.
other potential issue's are, cracked solder on the abs module board but normally what happens then is the abs light will come on solid once you have hit a bump in the road after key on and will stay lit until key-off, then with key-on it will clear because it has contact again until you hit the next bump in the road.
a bad ground would do the same thing-throw a solid abs light, not a flickering one that then goes away while key-on still

I have live data on my scanner, but it is a Zurich from Harbor Freight. I confirmed, I can't see anything on ABS wheel sensor signals.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have live data on my scanner, but it is a Zurich from Harbor Freight. I confirmed, I can't see anything on ABS wheel sensor signals.

well then the cheapest option is to 1 either try to clean them, and/or go buy 1 abs sensor and put it on the left or right side, drive it, if the abs message is gone you guessed correct the first time, if not swap the sensor to the other side, if that fixes it great, if not then you probably have a bad hub.
you can check the hubs for noise or play by jacking up the front so the wheels are off the ground.
grab the tire at 12 & 6 try and to wiggle it and see if it has play, then grab it 3 & 9 and see if it has excessive play (you will have some play at 3 & 9) because of the steering.
then spin the wheel and listen for any strange noise it should spin quiet.
if either side has any play or noise that would indicate a worn out hub.
it's not a catch all end all but usually by the time the abs is coming on the hub will show signs of wear.

 

[MassHoe04]

well then the cheapest option is to 1 either try to clean them, and/or go buy 1 abs sensor and put it on the left or right side, drive it, if the abs message is gone you guessed correct the first time, if not swap the sensor to the other side, if that fixes it great, if not then you probably have a bad hub.
you can check the hubs for noise or play by jacking up the front so the wheels are off the ground.
grab the tire at 12 & 6 try and to wiggle it and see if it has play, then grab it 3 & 9 and see if it has excessive play (you will have some play at 3 & 9) because of the steering.
then spin the wheel and listen for any strange noise it should spin quiet.
if either side has any play or noise that would indicate a worn out hub.
it's not a catch all end all but usually by the time the abs is coming on the hub will show signs of wear.

Thanks for the advice! I just bought it and my trusted mechanic didn't feel anything excessive in the front end. There was a tiny amount of play at the pitman, but not a lot. The inner tie rod did have excessive play and was replaced.

I have pads and rotors coming from Rock Auto in the next day or so. My plan is to pull the sensors, inspect, clean and install the new front brake rotors and pads. If if cleaning the sensors doesn't take care of it, I'll go for new hubs with sensors up front and see what that does. Thanks again. I'll know by sometime next week, what happened or was found on inspection.