Adding amp and subwoofer

[PNWYukon]

I have used these products in the past:
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/aoem-gm24

works well, simple install and good integration.

Different unit if you have the Bose system.

@89Suburban it really depends on your factory connections. If it has RCA jacks then it would be easy, if not then you'd would have to splice into the rear channel outputs and wire in your subwoofer that way. Amps still come with speaker wire connections.

As for the components, if you have no brand preference, then something like what the OP is doing would be good. If you want real thump, then get a nice bandpass box with at least one 10" subwoofer, like a Kicker or JL Audio. A brand matching amp is nice too, but not necessary.

Matching the amplifier RMS power output with the speaker RMS is the key.

 

[liquify33]

You seem to know your stuff. What do you suggest for adding an amp/sup to an '07 with factory HU and Bose for some extra thump?

Sorry, here is Bose link. I didn't realize you had already specified. Make sure Y91 is on your glove box sticker.

This basically sits between your HU and the vehicle wiring and adds RCA outputs for an amp. This gets you the audio signal, you will still have to wire up amp to power, then to sub. I can'i imagine a self-powered sub box would be better than the Bose but I haven't dabbled in that stuff in years.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/c2a-gm24

 

[89Suburban]

@89Suburban it really depends on your factory connections. If it has RCA jacks then it would be easy, if not then you'd would have to splice into the rear channel outputs and wire in your subwoofer that way. Amps still come with speaker wire connections.

As for the components, if you have no brand preference, then something like what the OP is doing would be good. If you want real thump, then get a nice bandpass box with at least one 10" subwoofer, like a Kicker or JL Audio. A brand matching amp is nice too, but not necessary.

Matching the amplifier RMS power output with the speaker RMS is the key.

No RCA's avail on the factory HU. I am very stupid with Watts/RMS/ohms/bridge/mono etc, etc. What semi-affordable list of components would you suggest to install a good hitting single 10"/amp behind/under the 2nd row seats? I used to have a Rockford 12" 300 Watt but it hit too low and sounded like shit I didn't like it. I sold that off. I used a RCA converter to tap into the center console sub woofer wires but I am wondering if that is a good route to go for best sound signal. If I tap into the rear speaker wires at the pillars I would have to do it on each side correct? Thanks for taking the time for my questions.

 

[89Suburban]

Sorry, here is Bose link. I didn't realize you had already specified. Make sure Y91 is on your glove box sticker.

This basically sits between your HU and the vehicle wiring and adds RCA outputs for an amp. This gets you the audio signal, you will still have to wire up amp to power, then to sub. I can'i imagine a self-powered sub box would be better than the Bose but I haven't dabbled in that stuff in years.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/c2a-gm24

Thanks, that looks pricey. Only Y codes I have on my RPO are: YD3, YD5, YD6.

 

[PNWYukon]

No RCA's avail on the factory HU. I am very stupid with Watts/RMS/ohms/bridge/mono etc, etc. What semi-affordable list of components would you suggest to install a good hitting single 10"/amp behind/under the 2nd row seats? I used to have a Rockford 12" 300 Watt but it hit too low and sounded like shit I didn't like it. I sold that off. I used a RCA converter to tap into the center console sub woofer wires but I am wondering if that is a good route to go for best sound signal. If I tap into the rear speaker wires at the pillars I would have to do it on each side correct? Thanks for taking the time for my questions.

Since you already tapped into your subwoofer channel, I would stick with that. As long as the connections are solid the sound should be good. Maybe the RCA converter was the problem. The wires are there, you'd only have to lengthen them to your amp and skip the RCA.

Hit too low? As in the bass was too deep for you liking? That can be adjusted with a stand alone crossover or an amplifier that has a built in crossover.

If you listen to Rap/Electronic music you'd want it set to around 80Hz, but if that is too deep then set it at 120Hz, and so on until it sounds like you'd like it. Many amps have gain adjust as well. There are many ways to fine tune your bass sound.

By semi-affordable, what is your price limit for each: a sub? an amp? box? crossover?

 

[89Suburban]

Since you already tapped into your subwoofer channel, I would stick with that. As long as the connections are solid the sound should be good. Maybe the RCA converter was the problem. The wires are there, you'd only have to lengthen them to your amp and skip the RCA.

Hit too low? As in the bass was too deep for you liking? That can be adjusted with a stand alone crossover or an amplifier that has a built in crossover.

If you listen to Rap/Electronic music you'd want it set to around 80Hz, but if that is too deep then set it at 120Hz, and so on until it sounds like you'd like it. Many amps have gain adjust as well. There are many ways to fine tune your bass sound.

By semi-affordable, what is your price limit for each: a sub? an amp? box? crossover?

Skip the converter, check.

Yep too low, sounded like it was farting. It would shake the glass and rattle your ear drums but was too low. I think going from a 12” to a 10” sub might get me into what I am looking for?? Tighter base? When busta move comes on I want that sucker to punch hard and crisp. Also that Rockford sub had a closed box. Not sure if that means anything as I know some are vented.

I listen basically to anything except country and classical. Clasic/pop rock, metal, hop, some rap here and there etc.

My price limit to achieving this is maybe 3-400 TOPS or less preferably.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

A 10" sub gives the cleanest bass, IMO. If you want clean and tight base, you should consider using a sealed box (versus ported), with an interior volume that is matched to the sub that you select.

 

[89Suburban]

with an interior volume that is matched to the sub that you select.

Thanks, what does this mean and what is the procedure?

 

[PNWYukon]

All subwoofers require an X-amount of space inside an enclosure for optimal sound. A sealed box will make tighter bass, but a ported box will give greater BASS! The bass line on Young Mc's "Pick up the Pace" is more of the bass that carries, which a bandpass or ported box will deliver, vs the punch of "Bust a Move".

Here's an example setup for you:

Kicker sub with box this comes with the correct box and ready to install.

Kicker mono amplifier this amp has a built in crossover, bass booster and gain adjust for tuning your sound.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thanks, what does this mean and what is the procedure?

Speakers are designed to operate optimally within a box of a specific interior volume. When you purchase a sub, the specifications that come with the sub will tell you the optimal volume of the box for which the speaker was designed to operate in. For example, the sub that I have is designed to operate optimally in a box with an interior volume of 1 cubic foot. This sub is specifically designed to operate in this small box volume, so that the box itself takes up only a small area within the truck.

You can view the link below to get more information on this topic.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-bjei3Empmwv/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers/box_building.html