Adding Factory Style Auxiliary Trans Cooler Lines - Tru Cool 40K Install

[jeffm333]

I’m in this process now as well on a 2013 Suburban…. What solution did you end up using?

 

[Doubeleive]

jeez guys quit cutting crap up, a few little things and you are golden
2 of each of these, top 2 are on amazon, bottom 2 are on ebay

 

[iamdub]

jeez guys quit cutting crap up, a few little things and you are golden
2 of each of these, top 2 are on amazon, bottom 2 are on ebay
View attachment 407053View attachment 407054

I think they're talking about using trans cooler lines from a truck that had the factory external cooler. The fluid runs from the trans to the radiator just like normal but then goes out of the radiator to an auxiliary cooler in front of the rad. The Tru-Cool is wider than this factory cooler. A simple solution with the Tru-Cool mounted in the same location as the factory cooler is to cut the passenger side pipe and rotate it 180° so that it lines up with the fitting on the Tru-Cool. This would require one compression union.

Stock arrangement:




You'd cut that passenger side pipe down low, where it passes through the plastic, rotate the top "Z" part and rejoin it with the union to end up with something like this:




The way you described makes for an easy bolt-on solution to retain your factory cooler lines that go to the rad. But, it introduces four compression connections (both ends of the AN hose) whereas using the factory lines introduces two (each end of the union). Personally, I think either way is perfectly fine and am more concerned about cleanliness of routing. Also, the materials you listed are about $150 (at 2022 prices). If I looked at the correct factory lines, the AC Delco ones are around $66 (Amazon) for all three. Add a $12 stainless union and you're in it for far less, plus you'll have new lines. This is for a 4L60E. The 6L80E uses a joined line set with a bulkhead block like the engine oil cooler. So, it's probably more expensive for them lines. Do you have any pics of your setup?

 

[Doubeleive]

I think they're talking about using trans cooler lines from a truck that had the factory external cooler. The fluid runs from the trans to the radiator just like normal but then goes out of the radiator to an auxiliary cooler in front of the rad. The Tru-Cool is wider than this factory cooler. A simple solution with the Tru-Cool mounted in the same location as the factory cooler is to cut the passenger side pipe and rotate it 180° so that it lines up with the fitting on the Tru-Cool. This would require one compression union.

Stock arrangement:

View attachment 407080


You'd cut that passenger side pipe down low, where it passes through the plastic, rotate the top "Z" part and rejoin it with the union to end up with something like this:

View attachment 407081


The way you described makes for an easy bolt-on solution to retain your factory cooler lines that go to the rad. But, it introduces four compression connections (both ends of the AN hose) whereas using the factory lines introduces two (each end of the union). Personally, I think either way is perfectly fine and am more concerned about cleanliness of routing. Also, the materials you listed are about $150 (at 2022 prices). If I looked at the correct factory lines, the AC Delco ones are around $66 (Amazon) for all three. Add a $12 stainless union and you're in it for far less, plus you'll have new lines. This is for a 4L60E. The 6L80E uses a joined line set with a bulkhead block like the engine oil cooler. So, it's probably more expensive for them lines. Do you have any pics of your setup?

prices were lower but poking around online tonight total parts cost would be $118
I had previously used rubber line and worm clamps and that lasted for a while but then they started leaking and I hate leaks especially on a primary thing like the transmission
the parts I listed will allow you to simply use the factory lines to adapt to a tru cool with factory quick connects, braided line and 6an fittings to the tru cool, nothing gets cut.
you use the oem quick connector on the 2 factory lines, then connect a 6an fitting to the quick connect, connect the 6an braided line to that then use the other 6an to 5/8 adapter to the tru-cool, the tru cool is 5/8'. then you have 24" of line to move the tru cool wherever you want or can.
yes there is extra cost involved but also peace of mind that it should never leak a drop.
I drive mine like a race car so the with the tru cool in front of the radiator I was having some cooling issues so I dropped it down behind the bumper, it's not mounted pretty but it won't leak and is still very effective for the transmission.
I will try and take some pic tomorrow

 

[iamdub]

prices were lower but poking around online tonight total parts cost would be $118
I had previously used rubber line and worm clamps and that lasted for a while but then they started leaking and I hate leaks especially on a primary thing like the transmission
the parts I listed will allow you to simply use the factory lines to adapt to a tru cool with factory quick connects, braided line and 6an fittings to the tru cool, nothing gets cut.
you use the oem quick connector on the 2 factory lines, then connect a 6an fitting to the quick connect, connect the 6an braided line to that then use the other 6an to 5/8 adapter to the tru-cool, the tru cool is 5/8'. then you have 24" of line to move the tru cool wherever you want or can.
yes there is extra cost involved but also peace of mind that it should never leak a drop.
I drive mine like a race car so the with the tru cool in front of the radiator I was having some cooling issues so I dropped it down behind the bumper, it's not mounted pretty but it won't leak and is still very effective for the transmission.
I will try and take some pic tomorrow

I'm not against it at all. I was just comparing the similar potential failure points- the compression fittings. Very minimal chances, though. I thought about it afterward and, yeah, using the AN fittings and flexible hoses would allow locating the cooler elsewhere. I'd say this is another benefit since the 40K cooler is actually excessive and can over cool the fluid and/or block the rad from cooling the engine.

Speaking of, between you and @Geotrash, whatcha think about putting the cooler low and at an angle, like where the "skid plate" (more of a splash shield) is? A recent thread mentioning aluminum copies of the factory part had me thinking of replacing mine with a louvered one and locating the cooler above it. My question is the air flow in that area but I thought Dave had his positioned like that. Still, mine is lowered so I have considerably less air volume under there.

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm not against it at all. I was just comparing the similar potential failure points- the compression fittings. Very minimal chances, though. I thought about it afterward and, yeah, using the AN fittings and flexible hoses would allow locating the cooler elsewhere. I'd say this is another benefit since the 40K cooler is actually excessive and can over cool the fluid and/or block the rad from cooling the engine.

Speaking of, between you and @Geotrash, whatcha think about putting the cooler low and at an angle, like where the "skid plate" (more of a splash shield) is? A recent thread mentioning aluminum copies of the factory part had me thinking of replacing mine with a louvered one and locating the cooler above it. My question is the air flow in that area but I thought Dave had his positioned like that. Still, mine is lowered so I have considerably less air volume under there.

That is where I mounted mine, it's not fancy but it works

 

[gooffeyguy]

Or just use a different cooler. My Derale 10000 series stacked plate design is the same width as the OE one, but an inch or two taller and about 2" thick, if not more. It's also rated at 36k btu (19 row) or 46k btu (25 row), so pretty much the same cooling capacity as the TruCool but only half the size

 

[Geotrash]

I'm not against it at all. I was just comparing the similar potential failure points- the compression fittings. Very minimal chances, though. I thought about it afterward and, yeah, using the AN fittings and flexible hoses would allow locating the cooler elsewhere. I'd say this is another benefit since the 40K cooler is actually excessive and can over cool the fluid and/or block the rad from cooling the engine.

Speaking of, between you and @Geotrash, whatcha think about putting the cooler low and at an angle, like where the "skid plate" (more of a splash shield) is? A recent thread mentioning aluminum copies of the factory part had me thinking of replacing mine with a louvered one and locating the cooler above it. My question is the air flow in that area but I thought Dave had his positioned like that. Still, mine is lowered so I have considerably less air volume under there.

Yes, I mounted a Derale 13960 fan-forced, stacked-plate cooler rated at 46,000 BTU/hr., below the bumper but ahead of the splash shield, at an angle on my 2012. I ended up using a pair of small hinges to attach the top of the cooler to the backside of the bumper, and some zinc plated straps to position the bottom of the cooler where I wanted it. The hinge idea came from another member who'd done the same, reasoning that the hinge would provide some give in the event of an encounter with a parking curb, deer, etc.

I did use worm drive clamps for a few of the connections, but I check them once a season and so far, no leaks and they've remained snug.

 

[iamdub]

That is where I mounted mine, it's not fancy but it works
View attachment 407099
View attachment 407101

Ooooh. You already had the auxiliary cooler.

And we can confirm that the location is viable.

 

[iamdub]

Yes, I mounted a Derale 13960 fan-forced, stacked-plate cooler rated at 46,000 BTU/hr., below the bumper but ahead of the splash shield, at an angle on my 2012. I ended up using a pair of small hinges to attach the top of the cooler to the backside of the bumper, and some zinc plated straps to position the bottom of the cooler where I wanted it. The hinge idea came from another member who'd done the same, reasoning that the hinge would provide some give in the event of an encounter with a parking curb, deer, etc.

I did use worm drive clamps for a few of the connections, but I check them once a season and so far, no leaks and they've remained snug.

View attachment 407116

Nice ideas. I'm not getting that deep into it (with its own fan). But it still shows the location and position works. Thanks for the details.