Adding Factory Style Auxiliary Trans Cooler Lines - Tru Cool 40K Install

[iamdub]

Or just use a different cooler. My Derale 10000 series stacked plate design is the same width as the OE one, but an inch or two taller and about 2" thick, if not more. It's also rated at 36k btu (19 row) or 46k btu (25 row), so pretty much the same cooling capacity as the TruCool but only half the size

Noooooo! All the cool kids swear by the Tru-Cool 40K!




Seriously, had I done my own research, I would've gone this route. But I already bought the Tru-Cool (3 years ago ) so I'm just gonna roll with it. That Derale is even the same price as the Tru-Cool. *facepalm*

 

[Doubeleive]

Ooooh. You already had the auxiliary cooler.

And we can confirm that the location is viable.

Ya the hardest part is mounting it, I made some metal brackets but put zip ties just in case a bolt worked it's way loose

 

[gooffeyguy]

Noooooo! All the cool kids swear by the Tru-Cool 40K!




Seriously, had I done my own research, I would've gone this route. But I already bought the Tru-Cool (3 years ago ) so I'm just gonna roll with it. That Derale is even the same price as the Tru-Cool. *facepalm*

I agree, I bought one too, but after mocking it up and realizing how large it is and how much of the radiator it was going to cover, I started researching other alternatives, then sold it.

 

[jeffm333]

Doubelieve - sorry for beating this to death but I want to be sure I get everything I need and I’m still not clear on one part - don’t you need an additional “male” end which has the factory quick-connect to connect to the output connection on the factory radiator/cooler? This is what the tech at the shop I was working with was needing but didn’t have a solution for (other than either cutting my factory line or obtaining one from a pick-and-pull to butcher). What part are you using to maintain the quick-connect on output side of the radiator (which then routes either hose or braided line to the “input” of the cooler?)

 

[jeffm333]

@Doubeleive @Geotrash or anyone else that’s done this:

Can you verify the flow direction through the trans cooler in the factor/original cooler in the radiator? Does it flow from transmission, to bottom connector in the radiator, then out of the top connector back to the transmission?

Thus the lower radiator connection to the transmission should stay as is, the additional cooler should then be connected to the upper “output” port/connector on the radiator, and the “output” connection of the new additional cooler then connected to the return line to the transmission?

(Just want to validate as I will want to check over everything closely after the transmission shop corrects this later today)

 

[Geotrash]

@Doubeleive @Geotrash or anyone else that’s done this:

Can you verify the flow direction through the trans cooler in the factor/original cooler in the radiator? Does it flow from transmission, to bottom connector in the radiator, then out of the top connector back to the transmission?

Thus the lower radiator connection to the transmission should stay as is, the additional cooler should then be connected to the upper “output” port/connector on the radiator, and the “output” connection of the new additional cooler then connected to the return line to the transmission?

(Just want to validate as I will want to check over everything closely after the transmission shop corrects this later today)

100% correct and verifiable. The flow in the radiator's end tank coolers is bottom to top. I would definitely have them replace that radiator with a new one though. They're cheap, relatively speaking, and it's pert near impossible to flush those tanks clean.

 

[gooffeyguy]

100% correct and verifiable. The flow in the radiator's end tank coolers is bottom to top. I would definitely have them replace that radiator with a new one though. They're cheap, relatively speaking, and it's pert near impossible to flush those tanks clean.

Which is weird, because many people use atf in their motor oil to help flush/clean out gunk, but yet it can't clean out it's own cooler, lol.

Did jeffm333 have his trans or converter grenade putting junk through the cooler?

 

[Doubeleive]

Doubelieve - sorry for beating this to death but I want to be sure I get everything I need and I’m still not clear on one part - don’t you need an additional “male” end which has the factory quick-connect to connect to the output connection on the factory radiator/cooler? This is what the tech at the shop I was working with was needing but didn’t have a solution for (other than either cutting my factory line or obtaining one from a pick-and-pull to butcher). What part are you using to maintain the quick-connect on output side of the radiator (which then routes either hose or braided line to the “input” of the cooler?)

if you have the factory aux cooler then my list is all you need.
if you do not have a factory aux cooler then you need additional parts
preferably at least the one oem line that goes from the top of the radiator to a aux cooler (junkyard or order one)
then you could just use one longer braided line to patch a ext cooler in which might not look pretty but adding the oem return line for a oem aux cooler would not be any fun at all.
I would use probably 1 4' line depending on where you intended to mount the aux cooler, those braided lines flex some but not a lot they wont make a hard corner

 

[j91z28d1]

Which is weird, because many people use atf in their motor oil to help flush/clean out gunk, but yet it can't clean out it's own cooler, lol.

Did jeffm333 have his trans or converter grenade putting junk through the cooler?

it's not that the fluid wouldn't clean out gunk. it's just they way the cooler and internal passageways, you can't get all the stuff packed in there out.. and for 100$ radiator, it's not worth trying.

same with ac condensors, back in the day of r12 they were just one long tube and flushed out no issue, but r134 needed more cooling and they switched to end tank style. they don't even try to flush them anymore, just toss them.