Adjustable pedals stopped working

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clandr1

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what’s the travel distance supposed to be on the pedals? My factory gear had a crack or two in it, but wasn’t broken. After putting the brass gear in it, I didn’t notice a difference in distance traveled before it hit the stops. I currently have maybe 2” total travel from front to back.
 
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PatL

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I have the same condition on my 2003 Tahoe where the motor clicked but wouldn't move. Took it apart and sure enough the plastic overmolded gear on the brass hub had split and was binding up the worm gear. I believe GM made a horrible material combination selection by mixing brass and nylon given the different thermal coefficient of the 2 materials, leading the weaker nylon to give up the ghost.

I removed the damaged gear and the motor still wouldn't spin. That's when I realized the accelerator pedal is driven by a cable but has the exact gear mechanism and it's gear was also damaged/split. They are the same part. Initially, when I thought it was just one gear I needed, I was trying to convince myself to spend $100 (part plus shipping + tax) to fix a sort of luxury feature. When that number doubled because there were 2 gears needed I said no way.

At this point, I reasoned that there is virtually no load or "precision adjustment" needed on the mechanism and therefore no need to have a perfect mesh of the gears, I simply made the 4 teeth around the crack (2 teeth on each side of the crack) thinner and lower with an exacto knife. They are nylon and very easy to carve. Now the gears are able to make their way past the driven worm gear (albeit with a minor click). The mechanism works fine and rarely gets adjusted anyway.

Give it a shot because you have nothing to lose and it is easy. I just kept removing a slight mount of material on the 4 teeth on both gears until I got them to move past the worm gear. It was able to be repeatedly tested after removing additional material by simply inserting the gear into the housing to engage the driven worm gear and did not require full reassembly.

Good luck and hope it works for you like it did for me.
 

ojb226

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Seems like the adjustable pedal buttons are only for the brake pedal?
What I'm really interested in is moving the gas pedal closer to the seat.
Reason being, I've realized that with my weathertech mats, the peal is not able to create 100% throttle without an excessive amount of pressure. (I only found this out from digging into my HP Tuner data logs and realizing I was only tracking about 90% throttle when I thought I had it floored.) The added rubber material in that confined space just limits the stroke of the pedal.

My buttons don't work, but It would be a shame for me to repair this issue only to find out it's for the brakes.
I don't want to, but I may just end up pulling a gas pedal assembly from the junkyard and cutting/welding the gas pedal bracket to have more clearance in that area.

Thoughts? TIA
 

Fless

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Seems like the adjustable pedal buttons are only for the brake pedal?
What I'm really interested in is moving the gas pedal closer to the seat.
Reason being, I've realized that with my weathertech mats, the peal is not able to create 100% throttle without an excessive amount of pressure. (I only found this out from digging into my HP Tuner data logs and realizing I was only tracking about 90% throttle when I thought I had it floored.) The added rubber material in that confined space just limits the stroke of the pedal.

My buttons don't work, but It would be a shame for me to repair this issue only to find out it's for the brakes.
I don't want to, but I may just end up pulling a gas pedal assembly from the junkyard and cutting/welding the gas pedal bracket to have more clearance in that area.

Thoughts? TIA

Do you have your owner's manual? You don't mention your year, but the owner's manual for mine shows this:

1728577657470.png

1728577756981.jpeg
 

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