Advice about buying a used Yukon to replace my 2003 SLT with 302,000 miles

[swathdiver]

L9H was really only used on the 2009 Denali SUVs. Some literature shows it being used in 2010, maybe the early ones as we know most of the ones we see are L94 equipped. The Denali pickups used that engine longer.

 

[muncie21]

I've got a 2009 Denali (6.2L) without AFM. It has 130K on it and no major issues!! If it were not for body rust, I would plan to drive it to 200K.

 

[Doubeleive]

after doing lots and lots of homework I settled on a 2012 Yukon xl denali with everything I wanted (feature wise), partly because of the price, pricing is weird a decent 09 might run 20k but so will a 12 or 13, so why not get as new as possible for the same price range, I also took into account future maintenance and repair cost and there is lots of interchange ability from 09-13, 14 had some changes and 07/08 were still figuring out what to do.... usually after a few years into a new body style they get most of the little kinks out, doors & windows seal better, body parts fit tighter, wiring problems addressed, etc.

 

[bldn10]

At what age/mileage do components start needing replacing? I'm looking to "upgrade" from my '02 and looking at a '10 Tahoe w/ 104,000 miles. The current owner has had it for around 31,700 miles and says he hasn't replaced anything. Should things like water pump, A/C tensioner, plugs, injectors, gaskets, battery, fuel filter, alternator, shocks, rotors, etc. be replaced by now? I don't want to buy a truck w/ lots of deferred maintenance.

 

[Doubeleive]

At what age/mileage do components start needing replacing? I'm looking to "upgrade" from my '02 and looking at a '10 Tahoe w/ 104,000 miles. The current owner has had it for around 31,700 miles and says he hasn't replaced anything. Should things like water pump, A/C tensioner, plugs, injectors, gaskets, battery, fuel filter, alternator, shocks, rotors, etc. be replaced by now? I don't want to buy a truck w/ lots of deferred maintenance.

well yes and no, injectors should go a long long ways with just basic cleaning maintenance, these nnbs no longer have a fuel filter it's a all-in-one shot in the fuel pump, the rest is basic maintenance stuff plugs are rated for 100k, the shocks do tend to need replacing around 100k or so, alternators either work or don't work they don't necessarily have a maintenance interval, same for the tensioner. so if you just ask lots of questions and eyeball it real good that's the best way to go about it, people tend to fib a little when they say nothing has been done.

 

[Nubiaridesagain]

Get a '10-'14 Denali, which gets the 6.2, so you don't have to worry about AFM in the 5.3.

AFM?


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[HiHoeSilver]

AFM?


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Aka DOD. It's the fuel management system that deactivates half the cylinders.

 

[kev92gt]

Displacment on Demand

 

[BG1988]

Hello,

Time to finally replace my 2003 SLT autoride Yukon I orderd back in 2002 and took me 6 months to get. Dark Blue, barn doors, sunroof, 5.3 multi fuel, traction control (an option back then), no third seat, Bose system, XM, Tlr Pkg for my 59 Chris Craft, and most other options. Best vehicle I ever had and still looks great, even with NH Winters and salt. A safe and secure vehicle, as the world has gone to what we used to call "kiddie cars" back in the day.

Are there any subsequent model years to probably avoid? Seems there were some issues with some subsequent year models. I know the barn doors are long gone, but I really love them. Seems hard to find used ones in any colors other than black and white. I don't really like the current styling from GM these days for these new vehicles, and like the prices these days even less.

Would appreciate your comments and advice as I look for a replacement with a sun roof, no third seat (or one which I will throw away), and a high end model well equipped in maybe blue, red, or something not black, white, or brown. Thanks.

very cheap like 1500$ right?

My opinion is that, generally, the reliability gets worse the newer it is. They got better looking (subjective) and far more technologically advanced, but I'd be shocked to see a K2xxx hit 300,000 with no major repairs.

I believe the GMT800 is the most reliable generation with the GMT900 coming in second. The GMT900 looks much better (again, subjective) and has a few more available bells and whistles. The GMT900's engine can be made just as reliable by deleting AFM.

with frequent oil changes the AFM is a non issue...
every 3,000-3500 miles...

Since the AFM is oil pressure based

the AFM can be a real loser and be dead quickly if you change it 8-12k miles.. because the screen gets clogged etc.. dirty oil= more friction lack of clean oil that is why many of them fail under 100k miles


I would use motorkote additive that stuff is the BEST oil additive.. . see project farm on youtube if you don;t be leave me

 

[iamdub]

with frequent oil changes the AFM is a non issue...
every 3,000-3500 miles...

Since the AFM is oil pressure based

the AFM can be a real loser and be dead quickly if you change it 8-12k miles.. because the screen gets clogged etc.. dirty oil= more friction lack of clean oil that is why many of them fail under 100k miles


I would use motorkote additive that stuff is the BEST oil additive.. . see project farm on youtube if you don;t be leave me

AFM is always an issue in one way or another. Having to replace my oil prematurely because of a "sensitive" system IS an issue for me. This is beside the fact that there are components in the engine that reduce it's reliability. Frequent oil changes is a workaround and not a solution. If it were an actual solution, then GM engineers would have the OLM scaled drastically differently on the AFM-equipped vehicles than the others.

Which is better financially and for the environment: Overly-frequent oil changes which result in more filters and rags/paper towels bought and then trashed, recycling of the used oil (for those that recycle it), the wastefulness of replacing synthetic oil that can go far longer than 3,000-3,500 miles etc. or losing 1-2 MPG that will really only occur in rare and very specific driving conditions?

It continues to be proven that AFM isn't worth the risk if you want the longevity of the Gen 3 engine. Whatever fuel savings AFM may return over the life of the vehicle is easily lost and countered with the cost of engine repair or replacement.

By the way, I change my oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I use full synthetic Pennzoil or Mobil1 and quality filters. I've determined that 5,000 miles is right around where the oil starts to get too dark for my liking. Being a quality synthetic, it's lubricating properties should still be plenty good at that mileage, but I'm changing it to get the contaminants out more so than because the oil is "spent". I would never go 8,000+ miles on an OCI, such as what the OLM would have you do if you followed it.

I would use motorkote additive that stuff is the BEST oil additive.. . see project farm on youtube if you don;t be leave me

I was watching his JB Weld vs. Flex Glue Vs. Gorilla Vs. ... video this morning. Great video.

I'll check out the Motorkote one.

... And lol@"be leave".