AFM Delete Double Checking

[TollKeeper]

yes, but as far as I know, it will throw a check engine light. Even thou the system is disabled, it still exists in the PCM, so its looking for those sensors.

Im not sure how all that works.

Edit: This post, and the next one talks about this.

Guys I need help figuring out this engine rattle

@FasterBass I didn't notice anything yesterday but I plan on double checking the cylinder wall. @TollKeeper I ordered a kit from Texas speed as well as a L33 camshaft and an assortment of other gaskets and parts I will need to put it back together. Which seals and gaskets would you guys reuse...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Looking at this link: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017...ble-active-fuel-management-afm-on-gm-engines/

This paragraph makes it sound that if you have the AFM turned off in the PCM you don't need anything connected to it:
"NOTE: If you were in a situation where you’ve installed the AFM delete kit, but don’t have access to a programmer—a disabler can still be a viable option. To do this, you need to leave the AFM solenoid pack connected to ensure no codes are thrown. You can reuse the original valley cover OR use a non-AFM valley cover, leave the harness connected, and tuck the solenoid pack away."

 

[TollKeeper]

Whats confusing about that paragraph...
You can reuse the original valley cover OR use a non-AFM valley cover, leave the harness connected, and tuck the solenoid pack away.

If the VLOM has been removed, what is the harness suppose to connect to?

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub Got you, I guess I didn't understand the instructions for this step, the book said to keep the bolts loose until the cover was aligned but didn't think much of it.

It's a delicate balancing act. With the crank pully acting as a jig to center the seal and cover, I eyeball the bottom sides of the cover to get it close to even reveal on each side and snug the bolts up just enough that they hold the cover in place with a light friction hold. I measure each side and lightly tap the cover near the top with my 1/4" drive ratchet handle to rotate it (pivoting around the crank) to reduce the reveal on one side and add to the other. When they're even and within spec, I start tightening the cover bolts slowly, starting with the ones on each side in the middle, in a criss-cross fashion. I don't fully toque them, just snug them to hold the cover in place a little more. Then I double-check my reveal at the skirt. If it's good, I start with the criss-cross pattern again, tightening them further. If the reveal is still good, I torque to spec and check one last time. Somewhat lengthy and tedious process, but still far less time and aggravation than replacing a short-lived seal and far cheaper than those jigs that'd I'd never use enough to be worth the price.

I think I'll start by removing the water pump and trying to loosen the timing cover bolts with the harmonic balancer on it still, I haven't turned the balancer so I feel the front crank seal shouldn't be damaged.

You can't put it far enough off center to damage the seal without running the engine.

Then reinstalling the oil pan again, right now its loosely installed. Then going back and tightening down the timing cover bolts once the oil pump is mounted.

Tighten down the cover with it properly positioned, first. The oil pump has to be installed before you put the cover on. Add RTV to the four junction points THEN install the oil pan. You DO NOT want the cover's positioned affected by the oil pan.

Any other goofball things I should keep an eye out for? lol

There are so many options for goofing up or doing something a hard way, etc. Ask as you approach or attempt each step!

 

[iamdub]

I feel pretty good about how things are going, my only thought is I never torqued the oil pickup tube, I just snugged it down with an impact.

It doesn't take a whole lot of torque. But, without knowing about what your impact "snugged" it to, it's all a guess.

Also the AFM VLOM connecter remains unplugged now?

Connector remains unplugged- nothing to plug it in to. I cut the connector from my old VLOM and filled the back with epoxy to make it a snap-in plug to cap off and protect the wire harness connector.

 

[iamdub]

If the VLOM has been removed, what is the harness suppose to connect to?

The Ghost of AFM Past.

I'd be skittish with an AFM delete relying on a plug-in disabler. Per those posts, it might still need to see the solenoids connected even if the system is disabled. I guess those plug-in modules just affect something in the data stream that keep the PCM from activating AFM, but the AFM system is still "alive" and "online". Like, it keeps one (or some?) of the parameters required for the PCM to engage AFM from ever happening. Whatever it modulates affects the readiness monitors. Disable via tune removes the programming for AFM from the tune so it's like it doesn't exist and the PCM isn't gonna see anything unplugged/missing/offline.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@iamdub AFM is disabled via blackbear tune already

 

[Sparksalot]

Today was productive.

I removed the water pump and was able to loosen the timing cover.

I removed the oil pan and cleaned all the black RTV off of the pan and gasket and reinstalled it, it lined up much better with the timing cover this time. I was able to get the oil pan set, then I torqued down the timing cover and then torqued down the oil pan.

Installed water pump.

Installed lifters - didn’t realize how tight they sit in their trays and the block.

Cleaned and installed the heads. The instructions on the ARP head bolts say to keep certain things clean which was impossible for me. Torquing the head bolts was interesting, I much have used too much bolt lube because some of the head bolts I could not hand tighten. Regardless I got everything no torqued down on both sides. Tomorrow I will go over the head bolts again with the torque wrench to be sure.

This weekend I will be starting my Tahoe for sure. I want to start it before I finish installing the front diff in case I do need to drop the oil pan again, for the 3rd time. Need oil and coolant and to install the intake and exhaust manifold and button up the radiator and she will be ready to start.

I feel pretty good about how things are going, my only thought is I never torqued the oil pickup tube, I just snugged it down with an impact.

Also the AFM VLOM connecter remains unplugged now?
View attachment 374532

View attachment 374533

Swallowed by your Hoe.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub AFM is disabled via blackbear tune already

I recall you telling me that. That was just directed at Tollkeeper. You're good to go.

 

[Ivanhoe]

Also the AFM VLOM connecter remains unplugged now?

I wrapped mine up in black tape, made sure it was sealed to prevent gremlins appearing later. I had afm turned off prior to strip down by tuner, it's surplus to requirements and nothing to attach it to.