AFM disable or lifter issue 2012 PPV TAHOE

[Marky Dissod]

I'm seeing some posts on other posts (Reddit) about how software only AFM (Range, etc) only exacerbates lifter failure?

If your tennis elbow is REALLY bad, you may need to do much more than just stop playing tennis.
Still a great idea to stop playing tennis though, even if there's much more to be done.

Engine Half@$$ lifters are the real problem, though.
They are simply not as durable / robust as simpler lifters. Simpler lifters often outlast the engine they came in.
Engine Half@$$ lifters, not so much.

To keep Engine Half@$$ lifters as long as their weak@$$ materials and schidty specs will let them,
change oil as often as reasonably possible, and avoid wide open throttle and high RpMs.

Bandages sports wrap & physical therapy are not enough once a necessary surgery has been put off for too long.
Too many people avoid disabling Engine Half@$$ (or Engine Confusion) at the first possible opportunity -
they wait until or even after it starts showing symptoms.

By that time, major engine surgery to remove ALL the Engine Half@$$ bits is what's necessary.
Truth is, sooner or later, most of these engines will need to have all that lazy cylinder hardware replaced,
with REAL V8 parts.

 

[R467X]

I ran an AFM disabler for many years before doing an AFM and VVT delete a number of months back.

The disabler is, in fact, a bandaid, only prolonging the inevitable lifter collapse. You keep driving like that and may find yourself paying for a rebuilt / new engine.

When I'd unplug my AFM disabler and AFM came back on, my engine would studder and make all sorts of weird noises, when switching back and forth from 4 to 8 cylinders.

It all boils down to this - are you going to keep your rig? Or are you going to get rid of it soon? If you choose keep, then do an AFM delete.

 

[j91z28d1]

I ran an AFM disabler for many years before doing an AFM and VVT delete a number of months back.

The disabler is, in fact, a bandaid, only prolonging the inevitable lifter collapse. You keep driving like that and may find yourself paying for a rebuilt / new engine.

When I'd unplug my AFM disabler and AFM came back on, my engine would studder and make all sorts of weird noises, when switching back and forth from 4 to 8 cylinders.

It all boils down to this - are you going to keep your rig? Or are you going to get rid of it soon? If you choose keep, then do an AFM delete.

this is what makes the obd2 plug ins not great. once you stop using them they gunk up even worse than when being used and as you saw struggle to release.

short of removing the hardware, tuning it off in the tune itself so it never comes back on it a better idea.

I also like the idea of venting the oil passageway to the activation side too. but that's more involved