Air Comptrssor (Suspensio ) I Upgrade?

[krbjmpr]

2012 Yukon SLT, air ride is working, though compressor is running more often and longer.

Been thinking about adding a 2nd air compressor just for having on board air for inflatables, tires, birthday candles (lots now), dusting, etc.

Planning on making a tank / series of small tanks that will fit behind bumper or anywhere else I can get it, pressure switch controlled with master switch (and relay) to enable.

As I understand it, factory air ride compressor runs to inflate the bags, air is kept in place using check valve, and air is released using a solenoid valve.

If I put a similar solenoid valve between tank and connected suspension airline to it, I should be able to open / close the valve based on motor leads coming off suspension compressor relay for motor. When vehicle is level again, "turning off compresor" allows solenoid to close. If ride height is too high, air release solenoid would be used as normal. Add-on tank(s) pressure would be off at 125psi, on at 80psi.

Anybody done this already, or have comments?

 

[iamdub]

2012 Yukon SLT, air ride is working, though compressor is running more often and longer.

Been thinking about adding a 2nd air compressor just for having on board air for inflatables, tires, birthday candles (lots now), dusting, etc.

Planning on making a tank / series of small tanks that will fit behind bumper or anywhere else I can get it, pressure switch controlled with master switch (and relay) to enable.

As I understand it, factory air ride compressor runs to inflate the bags, air is kept in place using check valve, and air is released using a solenoid valve.

If I put a similar solenoid valve between tank and connected suspension airline to it, I should be able to open / close the valve based on motor leads coming off suspension compressor relay for motor. When vehicle is level again, "turning off compresor" allows solenoid to close. If ride height is too high, air release solenoid would be used as normal. Add-on tank(s) pressure would be off at 125psi, on at 80psi.

Anybody done this already, or have comments?

Due to all the various sensors, control modules and integrated actions between them, I'd keep an on-board air supply and the ALC as two separate systems. There are thermal and minimum PSI monitors that'd be affected, at least. The system is complex enough as it is with these integrated electronics and the solenoid valve manifold. I wouldn't tap into it as you're describing. I'm not saying it wouldn't work. It's if it would be worth it, would it last and if one of the modified components failed, what sort of subsequent failures could it cause? Don't get me wrong- I'm all for constructive modifications, repurposing and multitasking for efficiency. I've dickered around with the ALC system (and still am) and have a few examples of unorthodox modifications on my Tahoe, particularly with my rear drop setup. I just don't think this modification is worth the risk and effort. If you feel differently and wanna move forward, I, for one, would be intrigued to follow! I've proven a few naysayers, myself included, wrong a few times.

If the compressor is running more often and for longer, it's a sign of a leak. Either an air sleeve (or both) is worn and leaking, or there's a leak in an air line or within the compressor. Usually, it's a leaky sleeve that initiates the compressor's demise by overworking it.

 

[repairman54]

Factory compressor is small and not designed to run long as the air volume it puts out is not a lot to fill the shocks.
Newer replacements actually have a thermal protection built into them to protect them.
Do not tap into it. Trying to use it for inflatables will burn it out.

 

[krbjmpr]

Actually, was thinking the other way around. Air suspension deflate / air release left alone, original motor leads connect to solenoid to inflate suspension from other air source.

Another air source will get installed. Just curious if can eliminate rotating parts of oem compressor.

I have no idea of minimum / maximum pressures.

Discovered reason for compressor running for so long.. Driver rear tire was low (25 psi), but cannot find a leak using water bath. So, now I suspect bead / Schraeder leaking when hot or spinning at freeway speeds. Driver front was also pressurized to 47. I try and keep at 35, no idea how got so high.