alignment settings

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Johnb21

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What are you guys running for alignments? I understand an off-road might be different from a highway cruiser.

All but one shock was blown, so recently I removed the load leveling shocks from the rear and installed Z71 springs with new Bilstiens all around. Had to adjust the torque keys to level out a bit due to the increase in rear end height. Truck has 150k mi, and is a bit of a revival project. I just picked up the truck a few months ago from a friend.

I have chasing down a bit of a left hand pull and have eliminated some with moving one of the front tires to the back. The tires are Goodyear Wranglers A/S (I think), have about 20k mi on them. Not an aggressive pattern, all around truck tire.

Really wondering how sensitive alignment variation are for this truck and what folks have found to be a good setup for mostly highway/commuting.

Thanks All!
 

OR VietVet

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You should get the recommended specs for your rig and make sure you have a slight right caster lead at the end. That will cure the slight left pull. When you do the alignment make sure to post all final readings here.
 
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Johnb21

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You should get the recommended specs for your rig and make sure you have a slight right caster lead at the end. That will cure the slight left pull. When you do the alignment make sure to post all final readings here.


Had a real hard time adjusting the camber/caster due to 150k of New England winters..had to use a torch to get them to move. Anyway, I don't have them with me but off the top of my head.

FR: caster 2.9 - 3.1 ish, camber .8, toe .05
FL: caster 3.1, camber 0, toe .05

I wanted more caster to gain stability out of the truck, but we couldn't get anymore than 3.0. Also, we couldn't get the positive camber out of the FR, without reducing the caster.
 

01Konvict

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Thats pretty good but I would push for negative camber and less caster to give better cornering.
 

OR VietVet

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Had a real hard time adjusting the camber/caster due to 150k of New England winters..had to use a torch to get them to move. Anyway, I don't have them with me but off the top of my head.

FR: caster 2.9 - 3.1 ish, camber .8, toe .05
FL: caster 3.1, camber 0, toe .05

I wanted more caster to gain stability out of the truck, but we couldn't get anymore than 3.0. Also, we couldn't get the positive camber out of the FR, without reducing the caster.


The caster on left needs lowered and then the slight drift/pull left will be solved. I don't like the .8 FR camber or the .0 on the FL.
 
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Johnb21

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The caster on left needs lowered and then the slight drift/pull left will be solved. I don't like the .8 FR camber or the .0 on the FL.

I found my alignment spec sheet...the numbers are:

FR: caster 3.4 camber .8 and toe 0
FL: caster 3.9 camber -.1 and toe 0


I agree, I don't like the camber at .8 either.

I do know the truck was in an accident, but I believe it to be minor. I can see that the left front fender had been repainted. I haven't given the suspension a thorough inspection, as everything is rusty, but I will look over this weekend.
I am wondering if one of the control arms is slightly bent.
 

OR VietVet

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Caster too high on left and the fact that you cannot adjust the camber down on right could indicate a problem after wreck.
 
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Johnb21

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Caster too high on left and the fact that you cannot adjust the camber down on right could indicate a problem after wreck.

Only problem is the side that was hit isn't the side with the .8 camber...but I plan on taking off the upper arm and cleaning up.....could be so rusted that it just wouldn't adjust properly. I am considering just buying a new upper arm and hardware
 

OR VietVet

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Let us know but I can tell you that caster that high on left is likely cause of the pull/drift left.
 

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