Almost drop in sub for stock Tahoe box

[Tehboogyman]

The stock sub was blown when I bought the truck so I can't answer that for you. It gives a nice little bump to even out the sound but absolutely not earth shattering. If you have an aftermarket headunit with preamp outputs it is not too hard. If you're using the stock headunit then it will be a little bit more tricky because you'll have to wire in a low level converter.

You basically have 5 things to hook up to the amp;
Cable to positive batter terminal
Ground cable to chassis
Remote turn on wire(this turns the amp on, aftermarket headunits have a dedicated wire for this)
RCA cables to the headunit or low level converter
Speaker wires to the sub

 

[Tehboogyman]

Here's a brief rundown of the connections.
I hooked the battery cable to the stud on the back of the alternator. The only reason I did this is because I'm only running a 8ga power wire and 100 watts RMS. Any more power and it needs to be hooked direct to the battery but that would require installing different battery terminals and/or a distribution block. Make sure you use a fuse and try to keep it no more than 12" from the battery. Take your max wattage and divide by 12 volts, this will tell you what size fuse you need.


I drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the power cable through with a rubber grommet.


The RCA cables plug in to the back of the head unit to the port that says SW(subwoofer), if you don't have a subwoofer preout then most likely the rear channel is selectable to subwoofer.


The remote wire is always blue on aftermarket headunits, it should be labeled as such


I ran the wires under the sill plate and to the back seat, ideally you'd want the RCA's and power wires on opposite sides of the vehicle to avoid interference but in this case I'm not too worried about it.




I grounded my amp to the seat bracket which is bolted direct to the body. Make sure where you attach your ground is bare metal. Keep the ground as short as possible and at least the same size or bigger than your power wire.


Hope this helps.

 

[mmeachem]

Here's a brief rundown of the connections.
I hooked the battery cable to the stud on the back of the alternator. The only reason I did this is because I'm only running a 8ga power wire and 100 watts RMS. Any more power and it needs to be hooked direct to the battery but that would require installing different battery terminals and/or a distribution block. Make sure you use a fuse and try to keep it no more than 12" from the battery. Take your max wattage and divide by 12 volts, this will tell you what size fuse you need.


I drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the power cable through with a rubber grommet.


The RCA cables plug in to the back of the head unit to the port that says SW(subwoofer), if you don't have a subwoofer preout then most likely the rear channel is selectable to subwoofer.


The remote wire is always blue on aftermarket headunits, it should be labeled as such


I ran the wires under the sill plate and to the back seat, ideally you'd want the RCA's and power wires on opposite sides of the vehicle to avoid interference but in this case I'm not too worried about it.




I grounded my amp to the seat bracket which is bolted direct to the body. Make sure where you attach your ground is bare metal. Keep the ground as short as possible and at least the same size or bigger than your power wire.


Hope this helps.

Thanks alot man I think I may give this a try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kain452004]

How hard was it to pop out the trim pieces to route the wires? I plan on adding a better amp to my truck since the stock one is doing no justice for my Kicker speakers..