Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Scrappycrow

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2023
Posts
129
Reaction score
166
Location
Alpharetta, Georgia
Do you know or know where I could find the taper specs of the ball joint stud in the aluminum upper control arm and in the steel knuckle? I have some nearly-new aluminum arms from a '21 Sierra I'd like to swap to my '08. It's not worth it to me to get aluminum knuckles, especially since I'd have to get aftermarket drop knuckles. I have no problem with reaming my steel ones.
If the ball joints were the replaceable type, it'd be relatively easy to look up, as those specs are usually listed, but I have never found them for integrated "bespoke" components.

You can determine the taper via taper gauges or measuring:




If you're going this route, you MUST have a proper setup for doing so. I speak from experience, unfortunately (I damaged a steering arm on my '57 Chevy). To change the taper (not just "clean up" an iffy bore) you'll need to set up a rigid jig and use a drill press that has variable speed down into double-digit RPM, and use machining fluid such as Tap Magic (NOT WD-40 or 3-in-1, etc.). I actually modified my drill press to incorporate a 3-phase motor and VFD (variable-frequency drive) to do this. If this isn't for you, have a machine shop take care of it.
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
If the ball joints were the replaceable type, it'd be relatively easy to look up, as those specs are usually listed, but I have never found them for integrated "bespoke" components.

You can determine the taper via taper gauges or measuring:




If you're going this route, you MUST have a proper setup for doing so. I speak from experience, unfortunately (I damaged a steering arm on my '57 Chevy). To change the taper (not just "clean up" an iffy bore) you'll need to set up a rigid jig and use a drill press that has variable speed down into double-digit RPM, and use machining fluid such as Tap Magic (NOT WD-40 or 3-in-1, etc.). I actually modified my drill press to incorporate a 3-phase motor and VFD (variable-frequency drive) to do this. If this isn't for you, have a machine shop take care of it.


I'm usually one to modify or make my own tooling for a one-time-use endeavor. But I don't wanna risk messing up my knuckles. Not for something like this. I'll see what I can get my machine shop to do this for to determine if it's even worth it. Thanks for the excellent info!
 
OP
OP
petethepug

petethepug

Michael
Joined
May 4, 2016
Posts
3,099
Reaction score
3,411
Location
SoCal
I knew after I started the 1st post it was going to be a living update.

I noticed the aluminum steel after I posted the pic but left it. Seems to add a look into how well they buried the XFE concept GM was forced to roll out for staying competitive with Ford’s new aluminum steel metal trucks:rocking:

I was looking for the photo someone posted of their NNBS truck that was factory with aluminum UCA & LCA but couldn’t find it.
 
OP
OP
petethepug

petethepug

Michael
Joined
May 4, 2016
Posts
3,099
Reaction score
3,411
Location
SoCal
Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

Hub Alum.JPG
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

View attachment 419431


That's a knuckle. The hub bolts to that knuckle. Those blems below the three bolt holes are 100% harmless. Nothing mates to that surface. I'd file down the dings on the mating surface where the hub goes, though. In this pic, the one at the top right halfway between the bolt holes and the ones to the left of the lower right hole. Plus any others that might be out of the picture, at the top.
 

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
7,444
Reaction score
23,679
Location
south florida
Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

View attachment 419431
Nothing mates there, the wheel bearing assembly will line up with the 3 holes and stand off the knuckle
 

Foggy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2019
Posts
1,106
Reaction score
1,425
Location
KS
I've been following this post on the aluminum vs steel control arms and the
knuckles...
I looked at the parts online .... but holy crap !!!
The aluminum control arms are double to triple the price of my steel OE parts
Would like to get rid of weight for all the right reasons, but I don't know
if the initial investment is worth it $$$
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,714
Posts
1,873,074
Members
97,537
Latest member
CHENTE

Latest posts

Top