amp bypass???

[Boomer73]

MAC or JPAELTZ - either of you still following this thread? I sent you both ***.

-B

 

[bbenton]

What exactly did you hardwire the stock sub to?

 

[jpaeltz]

Alright here it is guys. It's pretty simple actually.

First you need a fair amount of wire and you're better off getting multiple colors so they're is no confusion.

Go ahead and cut off the console harness, expose all of the wires needed. I didn't use connectors just twisted them with electrical tape. There are 4 orange wires, all of which are constant 12v. The thicker wire of the group is the one that powers the amp. You have a black/white ground wire, and then a pink remote wire.

Using the diagram that Boomer posted above you want to splice into the HU harness speaker outputs. (Make sure you keep the wires to door speakers connected though, I still have the HU powering them). Match these speakers outputs with the corresponding low level input indicated on the harness.

Now most of us should now how to hook up everything from here. I placed a switch on the remote wire just if I ever wanted to leave the sub off. I also placed an inline fuse on the 12v constant wire. Both of these are easily accessible, you just have to pull up on the cup holders and you can access everything.

The trick is just finding power for you 12v constant and a place to tap in for your remote so the amp isn't on while your Tahoe isn't.

Now if you want to have your rear audio controls to work I have no idea. I'm trying to sell mine on ebay and am looking to get a cubby to replace it. I have no desire to have this in my Tahoe.

You can just hook up the rear power outlet by just splicing into the two outlets up front.

This was definitely an easy job, little tedious with all of the splicing and dicing of wire. Work smart, print off the diagram posted above so you know what color wires do what, and grab yourself a 6pack of brew!!

 

[burn0u7]

Ok. You definitely owe us a How-To and pics.

As afar as the remote ignition on, I think your best bet is to run back to the fuse box and use the SEO IGN fuse. But two things:

1. There is a remote on feed from the head unit, you should be able to pick that up and use that to do what you need to do so your amp is only on when your head unit is on.

2. If that doesn't work, I'd pick up RAP somewhere and put a switch inline with it and the amp. That way you can just turn the amp off if you don't want to use it.

Interesting comment on the bass size when hardwired.

-B

---------- Post added at 09:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

On the Radio harness, the Pink wire, Radio Amplifier Trigger - does it have any voltage when the radio is on? On the same harness the Orange wire is RAP.

I am in the process of installing an eclipse avn2210p that i got for almost nothing and it was sealed in the box from the dealership I got the tahoe from. I had to buy two modules to retain the steering wheel control functionality, memory recall, door chime, RAP, system health pulse and a bunch of other crap that the stock deck has built in. Both modules together cost me about $239 USD. The door chime / memory recall unit also carries the data bus connection and the audio inputs from the after market deck. It also has the harness adapter from after market to OEM. Everything is done by that module. With this, i can still use the BOSE 4 channel amp and it will run the BOSE sub amp as well. Since the BOSE system still sounds awesome all i'm going to add is a sub, bass restoration sound processor, and sub amp. This can be done by running power, remote, and a RCA cable back to the amp. Fairly simple install. Since the sub amp is a power hungry bastard, I'll add a 2 Ferad cap, and a Gel pack (this resembles a motorcycle battery but is 12v and is designed for this application)

 

[Bigsteve04Ho]

I cant find the harness that goes to the back of the radio to power the bose stuff. Im gonna have to run a bunch of wire down the console to the big harness.

 

[GeneralNoobzor]

Instead of hacking you could have just bought the amplifier bypass kit. It's only 10$ and has about 30ft of wire for every speaker... Lol

---------- Post added at 01:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:03 PM ----------

http://tinyurl.com/7c7wn6l

I believe this is the harness you need. I got mine of craiglist for cheap.

I cant find the harness that goes to the back of the radio to power the bose stuff. Im gonna have to run a bunch of wire down the console to the big harness.

The adapter plugs into the plug for the amplifer and bypasses it. The adapter for the back of the radio to keep bose/onstar is called: GMOS-04 It runs about $30-$50 on ebay.