Amp draw

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

yukonjacks

A Vegitative State
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
428
Reaction score
2
Location
The Confluence
My amp draw is terrible when the efan kicks on It normally runs around 14.5 / 15 amps but when the a/c fan kicks on it momentarily drops to 12 amps and the lights also dim momentarily. I put on a 140 amp alt. (thats what the guy at the altenator shop said) and I put the smaller pulley on that was provided by Justin also. Is it supposed to react that way?
 

badtothe bone

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Posts
111
Reaction score
10
Location
western pennsylvania
One small note. You are thinking with 1980's type technology.

The problem is not with the alternator, it is with the charging system.
When the engineers designed the electrical system for the GM cars and trucks, they design those systems to use the smallest size wires possible.
They also use the lightest batteries possible - to save weight.

The systems for years are way over loaded with options that does not do much for the actual performance of the vehcle, but is required by law to be there. When you add in the draw of the Power Train Control Module, the Body Control Module, the Radio, Heaters, power windows, lights, running lights, all the options inside of the vehicle. Compounded by cell telephone chargers, lap top computers, and all the perepherial devices.

Some people add's DVD players, monitors, back up camera's, GPS and extra lights and stuff and no matter how large the alternator is - it cannot keep up.

Add to all that, the fact that the government wants the vehicle to get 18 miles to the gallon. The programs in the computers tells the alternator to charge only when the battery shows a discharge, which means that even when you added a larger alternator and a smaller pulley, if the computer does not turn the alternator on, it does not charge. Nor does it charge all the time.

My guess is that the batter life in the near future in the GM trucks is not going to be more then 2 years. For the CAFE standards, it is cheaper to replace the battery, then to pay the toll for the truck not meeting the EPA standards and the CAFE standards for new cars and trucks.

Thank the government for that one.

About the only thing you can do is add the optional battery kit and a second battery. Add a second alternator such as the old style SI 12n20 that came standard in the Caddys and larger GM cars, and isolate that battery from the main battery in the vehicle. You can use the second battery to power all the power options not directly fed by the factory alternator such as lap top computers, DVD players and monitors and stereo's.
 

Thumper8302

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Posts
303
Reaction score
2
Location
OKC, OK
My amp draw is terrible when the efan kicks on It normally runs around 14.5 / 15 amps but when the a/c fan kicks on it momentarily drops to 12 amps and the lights also dim momentarily. I put on a 140 amp alt. (thats what the guy at the altenator shop said) and I put the smaller pulley on that was provided by Justin also. Is it supposed to react that way?

im having the same problem as well and im completely stock... main reason y i havent swapped my system over and also i have a bad ecbm too boot... will be doin the big 3 here soon to see if that helps....


anybody else have any suggestions
 
OP
OP
yukonjacks

yukonjacks

A Vegitative State
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
428
Reaction score
2
Location
The Confluence
Im just wondering since I hear so many people doing this mod that I never heard of this problem with others
 

Max

Mile High
Joined
May 3, 2009
Posts
3,570
Reaction score
33
Location
Denver
Sounds like you need to upgrade the wiring my truck doesn't drop much when they kick on and all I have is an optima yellowtop as well as the big3 in 1/0 gauge for the battery, alternator, and ground.
 
OP
OP
yukonjacks

yukonjacks

A Vegitative State
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
428
Reaction score
2
Location
The Confluence
Other than some led's and halos no real add ons. I have a battery from advance auto, no major batterys. Im not sure what you mean by an upgrade in wiring?
 

jhellwig

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2009
Posts
41
Reaction score
0
Location
Ottumwa, Iowa
Add to all that, the fact that the government wants the vehicle to get 18 miles to the gallon. The programs in the computers tells the alternator to charge only when the battery shows a discharge, which means that even when you added a larger alternator and a smaller pulley, if the computer does not turn the alternator on, it does not charge. Nor does it charge all the time.

Alternators are "on" all the time when the vehicle is running. The battery is only there to start the motor and supply power under short high load bursts. The vehicle is running off the alternator the whole time the motor is running.


yukonjacks: You are wanting to say volts not amps. Your problem is probably being caused by the alternator running fast enough. Maybe your idle speed is dipping or it isn't fast enough to run the load of the e fans.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
133,319
Posts
1,883,539
Members
98,395
Latest member
lgf10
Top