Amp Meter [Amp Clamp] Recommendations?

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Wes
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Specs say they're for AC current, not DC. The AC clamps are relatively cheap, and the DC ones are $$$ if you want to see below 0.1A.
ya I forgot it only does ac clamping, I use it for testing a variety of things dc clamping is not one I ever have a need for though
 
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I ended up with one of these and have been using it for the past several months, and I'd recommend it for reading relatively low DC current. It works good, but since it can read in the mA scale the wire being tested must be 1/2" dia. or less. I've been using it periodically on my negative battery cable to check the current draw. I can tell you that it's important to zero it with the end of the jaws right by where you plan to measure the current, as in the instructions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352176994690

upload_2021-4-26_2-26-38.png
 
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iamdub

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I ended up with one of these and have been using it for the past several months, and I'd recommend it for reading relatively low DC current. It works good, but since it can read in the mA scale the wire being tested must be 1/2" dia. or less. I've been using it periodically on my negative battery cable to check the current draw. I can tell you that it's important to zero it with the end of the jaws right by where you plan to measure the current, as in the instructions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352176994690

View attachment 277639


Now I see the reasoning for your inquiry earlier.
 

Mickey_7106

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Fluke if you have money to blow. i have a klein tools clamp that i bought at HD for under $100
 

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Resolution is a number you should look at for your meter when working that low, say 20-30 Ma. When I get that low the multimeter goes inline. 100 Ma is a "normal" number to see in newer vehicles. I wish they would shut off everything so you could park truck for a month without a disconnect and reset everything. The 1980's plow trucks sat 6 months and played musical batteries to fire them up every month. Batteries sat in shop by the charger.

Fless- I do like the looks of your new meter- that split ring clamp looks easy!
 

Larryjb

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The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol



I've got the Klein Tools meter like the one above as well. I got it to measure current going to my trailer brakes, but was also using it to chase leaking current. It was sensitive enough for me to observe that my Tahoe continues to use curren
The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol

I have one of these Klein Tools as well. it was sensitive enough for me to see that my Tahoe continued to draw current for about 15-20 minutes after shutting it off and locking the doors, after which the current draw dropped. I cant remember the exact current values though, but it should be sensitive enough to see something major.

When testing circuits for current draw, as soon as you open a door it will activate the computer again and you will have to wait another 20 minutes. If you pull the courtesy lights fuse, that should disable the triggering by the door and you should be able to attach your clamp meter, open the door and one by one, remove each fuse in turn to see what is drawing current. The hood may also draw current when open too when checking engine bay circuits.

How old is your battery? I found that my circuits were just fine when I did my current draw test. It turned out that, although my battery showed good charging voltage when running and a good 12.7 V immediately after shutting the engine off, the battery charge would deplete after a few days of sitting. All the battery plates were getting partially sulfated so that it would still read full voltage, but it had a reduced reserve charge because of the sulfation.
 
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