Another Lowered Denali and 1/4 Mile Data

[swathdiver]

When I get it on the scales I'll plug it in and see what we get. I'm not judging the accuracy, I just mean there's too many variables. Unless the trap speed you see is 100% accurate, no tire spin, no left/right movement, no elevation gain or loss, etc. Which is hard to do. Especially going off a run that was as choppy in the first 300' as those two. With that formula my 591whp Cobalt only made 422whp apparently since it blew the tires off the front half even though it backhalfed a 36mph gain.

But like I said hp is just a number to me. Am I curious what it makes, absolutely. But only out of curiosity. It's not a make or break if it only makes 499 instead of 500 or more.

That's the beauty of the formula, it's the amount of power that made it to the ground in that run that accounts for those variables you mentioned.

Way back when, I wanted to know this number to compare it to previous modifications as not everything we did added power, our ultimate goals were ET and MPH, the HP numbers helped tell us how we were doing along the way.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The altitude of the track makes a difference also.

What track did you get those times from?

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[Chert_Detective]

Fixed the toe enough to go get it aligned. Gave the QA1s 12 clicks for now until I get the rear bump stop brackets cut off the frame and bolt the Belltech ones on there.

The altitude of the track makes a difference also.

What track did you get those times from?

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Those were from a Dragy on a couple street passes. The 13.37 was at 844' DA, ran a couple low 13.50s at about 2400' DA while testing out the launch control a few days later.

 

[Chert_Detective]

Forgot to post an update, and realized I never posted a before with the afters. I mean everyone knows what they look like stock, but it seems like most people step up to at least a 22" or so after they lower it so still having the stock wheels and tires kind of throws off the comparison to the norm.

Cut the bumpstop brackets off last weekend, still need to grind and clean the frame up before a quick coat of rust proofing. Also turned the QA1s up to 16 from 12 (out of 18) to make it a little stiffer. To me, it rides much nicer from the previous settings, but I'm trying to set this thing up to 60' like a Camaro at the track so I'm not even going to compare it to stock haha.

I may actually be swapping these QA1s out for a coilover though if anyone is interested in them. The coil spring I'm using isn't really meant to handle this much weight so I'm sure the spring rate is way too low. I'll probably end up running the shock extension brackets I got with the rear hardware kit so I can get some more shock travel, and a coilover with maybe a 200-250lb rate to act as a helper spring. I haven't scaled it yet so I'm not sure what the weight bias is, that'll determine what spring rate I'll need on the coil.

Anyways, here's some before and afters from the same angles. Stock with 275/55/20s, and 5"F 6/6.5/7"??R with the same 275/55/20s.

 

[ivin74]

My main goal for this was to have enough drop to fill out the wheel wells with the M/Ts when I put them on and pull at least a 1.9X 60' on the street, maybe dip in to the 1.8 if I'm lucky. I'm not too concerned with being able to say "It's a X"/X" drop" so I didn't take any before measurements, but the front lip is ~4.5" from the ground lol.

Still waiting on the Spohn stuff to ship since PA is still closed down, so in the mean time I'm just running an ebay adjustable track bar for the NBS suvs.

IHC 5" front control arms with stock strut
IHC front sway bar endlinks
DJM 4" Trailblazer drop spring. I know guys use the 3" spring for ~5" rear drop.
DJM rear sway bar endlinks
Belltech bump stops
Heavy Metal adjustable panhard bar
QA1 single adjustable rear shocks

Spohn upper and lower adjustable rear arms will go on when they get here so I can better set pinion angle, along with swapping out the Heavy Metal panhard for the Spohn. I chose to do the IHC front because along with being a simple drop it allows for some nice options for welding on a tab on either side for front limiting straps. Keep the front from lifting and dial in the compression and rebound on the QA1s to get the squat where I want it.

I'll get some more pictures after the alignment and I'll test fit the Mickeys as well. The toe is all F$#@%& and the jam nuts are seized on the inner tierods so I need to pull them off the rack to break them loose and then bring the toe back in, THEN put it on the scales and align it.

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Can you post a pic of the engine bay, I would like to see the Fast intake. That 1/4 mile timing is SC/ Turbo territory, what other mods do you have other than what's on your sig?

 

[Chert_Detective]

Can you post a pic of the engine bay, I would like to see the Fast intake. That 1/4 mile timing is SC/ Turbo territory, what other mods do you have other than what's on your sig?

I modded mine a bit, removed the cable linkage mount, smoothed the dimpling on the top, then had a buddy hydrodip it and the Holleys in a carbon fiber pattern.

Nothing hidden from the signature either, just the right parts in the right spots. No boost or spray. Front and rear gears are going in on the 30th, piecing together my limiting straps and mounts currently.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Cool, now get it to the strip and get some real numbers!

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[Chert_Detective]

Cool, now get it to the strip and get some real numbers!

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That's the plan! I was hoping to make Streetcar Takeover this weekend but I couldn't get the gears installed in time to get enough heat cycles and a fluid change in beforehand. I MIGHT be able to make something happen the weekend of the 4th but that's up in the air.

 

[ivin74]

I modded mine a bit, removed the cable linkage mount, smoothed the dimpling on the top, then had a buddy hydrodip it and the Holleys in a carbon fiber pattern.

Nothing hidden from the signature either, just the right parts in the right spots. No boost or spray. Front and rear gears are going in on the 30th, piecing together my limiting straps and mounts currently.

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It looks bad a$$

 

[Chert_Detective]

It looks bad a$$

Thanks, looks a lot better than oem that's for sure! Haha. Once I get this suspension stuff taken care of I'm going to spend some time really cleaning up and hiding a lot of the wiring. I hate how cluttered these engine bays look.