Any interest in 4wd front coilovers to replace tbars?

[livingez_123]

if you look at the front suspension you will see how the shock mounts to the LCA, the front drive axle sits just behind and downwards of the shock. if you have dropped spindles the LCA remains in the same location as does the shock. The hub center gets moved up. when it goes up the axle goes alone with it making it closer to the shock. You would just need to check to see if you have enough room to accommodate the extra dia of the coil springs. And it needs to be checked at all steering angles.

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

also, torsion bars have been around for many many years. Dodge, Ply, Chry used them up into the early 80's. Coils spring can be wound in a way to give you a progressive ride. They can start out soft and as they compress get stiffer. or they can have a more linear rate. I believe it's called a progressive and fixed rate. torsion bars are more of a fixed rate, but the later bars had different tapers in them to try and give a soft initial rate and get stiffer as they are twisted. Torsion bars also had many different rates to accommodate all of the different engines and suspension setups.
I think it's a good idea, don't get me wrong. Would I try it? if I had the extra money to spend and find the right combination of spring rate...sure, why not. The NNBS have coils up front, it only took GM 18 years or so to get away from the torsion bars. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

 

[Bomba02]

Lol. It is kind of all i thought of today till something happened. But the idea sounds great. Just needs more research on my end and some feedback from people that have done this. Not to sound like an a$$, but how do you know the ride would be better? Asking b/c i honestly do not know. So please dont take that as a mean way. Tbar is the oddest setup i have seen and still dont get it. lol. Dont know how are bar does the front suspension on these heavy trucks and tahoes, etc.

I have drop spindles as well, and even if this does not work w/ them, which i agree w/ living, i dont see why they would not work. the brackets dont do anything w/ the spindles. Like stated, 4wd might be a problem or awd and spindles. From what i have seen and skimmed over.

ah.. and my tahoe is my DD as well. So ride is kind of a big thing and cant really experiment if this does not work out right.

Be the guinnea pig. lol



I do not know if you could put them where the shocks go. The springs go in the pocket and the shocks on the outter side. (yall know what i mean) So i dont know. Not sure i would want the weight of my tahoe sitting where the shocks go by themselves. Especially right now on shock relocators. Will add this to my research. lol



Maybe i messed up these quotes, but what do you mean measure the shock and axle distance? Or is this for the front setup?

Either way. Im really liking this idea if i could go back to stock spindles (get my turning back) and then slam it back down and ride better.

No worries, to my opinion when lowered the jounce stops are being sit on pretty hard. So travel of the suspension is cut and is harsh do to that. I have me stops trimmed and cut its all due to the lowering keys. So coil overs have been a racer or street guys upgrade for a while, so adding them would give more travel and you could find tune it with spring rates and adjustable shocks....

I was saying in the rear you'd remove your stock coils and shock and jack truck to where you want it to sit over the tire fender gab. Then you'd measure shock eyelet to eyelet and that's what length coil shock would be needed. You'd have to compress it as well and get the closed length. Hopefully you follow me. lol. There fore being able to set rear end at any ride height your heart desires. Also they make gusset that weld to rear end for shocks or coil overs. I've seen them mounted straight up and at like a 45 degree angle. Stock mounting points could work I think with possible reinforcements.

if you look at the front suspension you will see how the shock mounts to the LCA, the front drive axle sits just behind and downwards of the shock. if you have dropped spindles the LCA remains in the same location as does the shock. The hub center gets moved up. when it goes up the axle goes alone with it making it closer to the shock. You would just need to check to see if you have enough room to accommodate the extra dia of the coil springs. And it needs to be checked at all steering angles.

---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

also, torsion bars have been around for many many years. Dodge, Ply, Chry used them up into the early 80's. Coils spring can be wound in a way to give you a progressive ride. They can start out soft and as they compress get stiffer. or they can have a more linear rate. I believe it's called a progressive and fixed rate. torsion bars are more of a fixed rate, but the later bars had different tapers in them to try and give a soft initial rate and get stiffer as they are twisted. Torsion bars also had many different rates to accommodate all of the different engines and suspension setups.
I think it's a good idea, don't get me wrong. Would I try it? if I had the extra money to spend and find the right combination of spring rate...sure, why not. The NNBS have coils up front, it only took GM 18 years or so to get away from the torsion bars. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

Livin- thanks for all the info and insight. I was thinking as you stated the only thing that changes is the placement of the cv shaft. I am awd so I'm working on it tonight (fuel pump shit the bed been with out it for a week) so I'm gonna measure shock to cv. at all turning radius.

I agree with the t bar working and don't mess with it if its not broken but I lowered it there fore messing with it and I've been into modding cars for a while so I'm always looking for something to do. I want to go lower and a better ride think this would be my answer. Ill post up my findings tonight about cv shaft to shock distance with drop spindles.

Sorry for rambling and thanks for all the info
Billy.

 

[Atomic]

I can't comment on the rear suspension setups on tahoes since Ive never messed with them, sorry.

The place with the least clearance is actually between the UCA and spring when installed. You have some options of moving the shock around using little spacers, but its closests when the truck sits at full compression.

The brackets and shock clear the CV by miles since they sit above and inboard of the boot.

 

[Tahoewhat]

also, torsion bars have been around for many many years. Dodge, Ply, Chry used them up into the early 80's. Coils spring can be wound in a way to give you a progressive ride. They can start out soft and as they compress get stiffer. or they can have a more linear rate. I believe it's called a progressive and fixed rate. torsion bars are more of a fixed rate, but the later bars had different tapers in them to try and give a soft initial rate and get stiffer as they are twisted. Torsion bars also had many different rates to accommodate all of the different engines and suspension setups.
I think it's a good idea, don't get me wrong. Would I try it? if I had the extra money to spend and find the right combination of spring rate...sure, why not. The NNBS have coils up front, it only took GM 18 years or so to get away from the torsion bars. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

Did not know tbars being around so long. I knew for some time they have been, but not that long. Good to know. I got progressive rate springs in the rear, so that makes sense. Did not think about the nnbs have springs in front, just like my friends 01 silverado has struts/springs up front. He doesnt have the tbars.

You are right though, if its not broke, let it be. But as Billy stated, we are lowered and could use a better front setup.

No worries, to my opinion when lowered the jounce stops are being sit on pretty hard. So travel of the suspension is cut and is harsh do to that. I have me stops trimmed and cut its all due to the lowering keys. So coil overs have been a racer or street guys upgrade for a while, so adding them would give more travel and you could find tune it with spring rates and adjustable shocks....

I was saying in the rear you'd remove your stock coils and shock and jack truck to where you want it to sit over the tire fender gab. Then you'd measure shock eyelet to eyelet and that's what length coil shock would be needed. You'd have to compress it as well and get the closed length. Hopefully you follow me. lol. There fore being able to set rear end at any ride height your heart desires. Also they make gusset that weld to rear end for shocks or coil overs. I've seen them mounted straight up and at like a 45 degree angle. Stock mounting points could work I think with possible reinforcements.

After looking at your setup, your is bascially the same as mine. Pretty much at same level and such. My front is pretty much smashed on the front bump stops.They are modified as well. I understand coil overs, love them. Friend has them in 10 sec honda and other cars he has owned. I love being able to change the height and firmness. But if possible and proven, i just may go this way.

If i understand right, i could use that method to get the correct shock for my tahoe now. As the ones i have are too long. Measure and go from there. Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. The gusset like they use for air bags right?

look for a pm this weekend. Dont want to clutter up the op's thread.

I can't comment on the rear suspension setups on tahoes since Ive never messed with them, sorry.

The place with the least clearance is actually between the UCA and spring when installed. You have some options of moving the shock around using little spacers, but its closests when the truck sits at full compression.

The brackets and shock clear the CV by miles since they sit above and inboard of the boot.

Well you did one part already, so half way there. lol

BTW - love your truck. Thats awesome running w/ the rack still on.

 

[digitalfiend]

I can NOT stop thinking about this conversion. I just added lowering keys to the front of my 2004 Tahoe and I haven't gotten the jounce stops trimmed yet, so my ride sucks, and I don't have much travel left. I'm sure that this conversion would give me a much better ride and more travel since I could do some "massaging" to the points on the front frame where the jounce stops would be replaced with proper bump stops.

This conversion is on my todo list after my transmission swap and exhaust replace..if I can't get my jounce stops tuned where I want then I may do the conversion before my exhaust.

 

[a4edwin]

Will the lower cotrol arms be able to support all the weight being put on it now that you'll eliminate the tb?

 

[livingez_123]

The LCA's already support the weight.

 

[Atomic]

Andrew, even with tuned jounce bumpers I am sure coilovers will ride better. Let me know if you have any questions. The bump stops I used simply bolt through the pad the regular bumpers contact. I did cut off the factory bumper holder with a sawzall so the bumpstop had a smooth surface to contact. Both sides took maybe 20 minutes including cutting and installing new ones. If you decide to uninstall this later the factory bump stops will work just as well as the factory ones.

Edwin, like mentioned, the LCAs already support the weight of the truck. They are very heavy steel pieces.

 

[digitalfiend]

Andrew, even with tuned jounce bumpers I am sure coilovers will ride better. Let me know if you have any questions.

I agree with you 100%...coilovers should provide a superior ride. I'm hoping that tuned jounce stops can get me through until I've got the greenbacks to do this conversion.

There's everything to love about this conversion...you have the could increase the available travel, have more options for tuning, and an improve the ride.

The bump stops I used simply bolt through the pad the regular bumpers contact.

I saw the photos of the bump stops you're using in your PT thread. It's funny to me because I'm using the the exact same bumpstops on the rear of my Tahoe right now and they work great.

I did cut off the factory bumper holder with a sawzall so the bumpstop had a smooth surface to contact. Both sides took maybe 20 minutes including cutting and installing new ones. If you decide to uninstall this later the factory bump stops will work just as well as the factory ones.

I'll probably do the exact same thing you did...cut of the bracket and install proper bump stops on the LCA's.

 

[Bomba02]

Wish i had the cake to do this id jump all over it. Ride would be great! Also be able to set ride height to your own liking. Im also curious about doing coilover conversion to rear as i stated before think it would be great. Product looks great, on my list! i was looking at your pics richard looks like the bottom bracket sets the coilover back a little with using the stud mount top would the suck the top in a little more. just wondering for upper control clearance with drop spindles. Thanks Billy