Any interest in 4wd front coilovers to replace tbars?

[M Hankel]

I'm trying to measure for the proper shock height (extended/compressed/ride height). How much does using *only* your lower shock mount reduce the shock height by?

Be careful when looking at the longer shocks. I could not find a spring manufacturer that made a 2.5" diameter, 1200-1300 lb spring in the longer lengths (7"+ lengths). Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough though. ?

Mike

 

[Atomic]

The required stiffness depends on shock travel. The 1200-1300 number is only for the short travel shocks.

 

[M Hankel]

The required stiffness depends on shock travel. The 1200-1300 number is only for the short travel shocks.

Awe gotchya.

Mike

 

[digitalfiend]

Not yet I think I have just had those 2 guys so far. With you would be 3 I guess, find 2 more and there ya go!

Come on people! Put your chips in because I wanna play!!!

 

[saif najd]

OK, listen!

If I want to get 1.5 up to 2inch form my front suspension (as lifting)

By mixing or using your parts AND forgetting about the Tbar system!

Can you do that? And I can get the best ride quality?

At least as good as factory ride quality and it can take side wakes jumps and dune fights


If you can offer me something good and reliable 100% for my 98 2dr Tahoe then you are smarter than "GM turtles" and I well buy it!

Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk

 

[Atomic]

The amount of lift you can get is the same as with a huge crank on the tbars, so 2-3" max. Any problems associated with a big tbar lift like crappy balljoint angles and bumpsteer will still be there because the truck is still lifted, this just changes how its lifted. The ride will be drastically better than with a tbar lift.

Im not a sand guy so im not familiar with wake jumps and dune fights, but I can asure you my parts wont break, or let me say, if my parts do break then what you did to cause them to break would destroy the truck no matter what lol

I am fairly certain the LCA on your truck is the same as the 1999+ gm trucks, so my lower bracket should fit fine. I am not sure about the upper shock pocket, but my brackets can we welded to the frame and even reuse the factory shock if you want to put it back to stock.

If that sounds like something you want to do shoot me a PM.

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

So guys on the group buy:

1. digitalfiend
2. bomba02
3.
4.
5.

Is this right?

 

[Tahoewhat]

Come on everyone, get on the group buy.

Trust me it is well worth it. The ride will be much better. Im slammed and the ride is great for a slammed tahoe. Just see my threads, or pm me. Will help you out with any questions you may have.

500 plus miles on mine and not one issue and still all looks 100% like it was when installed.

Lifted or lowered or even stock get his brackets NOW!!!! ha ha..

 

[Atomic]

Haha thanks for the support! I have around 2000 on mine and still no problems.

 

[digitalfiend]

1" of shock travel == 2.25" of tire sidewal travel

I put the front of my Tahoe on jack stands tonight. I measured the location of the outside of the rim/sidewall and the length of the shock. I then cycled the lower control arms so that the shock compressed by 1" and measured the amount of movement of the outside of the rim...it moved 2.25". With my rim setup 1" of shock movement equals 2.25" of movement at the outside rim/sidewall.

DisClaimer: Bear in mind that I'm not running a stock rim...I'm running an 18" version of Enkei's RT6 that was originally intended for a Toyota Tacoma. Because of this my backspacing is slightly different than the rims that many of you are running.

A safe guideline: It is probably extremely safe to assume a general 1:2 ratio of shock to outside rim/sidewall movement...so 1" of shock movement is roughly 2" of movement at the outside of your rim/sidewall

 

[Bomba02]

The amount of lift you can get is the same as with a huge crank on the tbars, so 2-3" max. Any problems associated with a big tbar lift like crappy balljoint angles and bumpsteer will still be there because the truck is still lifted, this just changes how its lifted. The ride will be drastically better than with a tbar lift.

Im not a sand guy so im not familiar with wake jumps and dune fights, but I can asure you my parts wont break, or let me say, if my parts do break then what you did to cause them to break would destroy the truck no matter what lol

I am fairly certain the LCA on your truck is the same as the 1999+ gm trucks, so my lower bracket should fit fine. I am not sure about the upper shock pocket, but my brackets can we welded to the frame and even reuse the factory shock if you want to put it back to stock.

If that sounds like something you want to do shoot me a PM.

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

So guys on the group buy:

1. digitalfiend
2. bomba02
3.
4.
5.

Is this right?

Yes, thinking just the lower brackets. Seems to have some good input on shock mount holding...I hope...undecided on stud mount or loop adapter for top.

I put the front of my Tahoe on jack stands tonight. I measured the location of the outside of the rim/sidewall and the length of the shock. I then cycled the lower control arms so that the shock compressed by 1" and measured the amount of movement of the outside of the rim...it moved 2.25". With my rim setup 1" of shock movement equals 2.25" of movement at the outside rim/sidewall.

DisClaimer: Bear in mind that I'm not running a stock rim...I'm running an 18" version of Enkei's RT6 that was originally intended for a Toyota Tacoma. Because of this my backspacing is slightly different than the rims that many of you are running.

A safe guideline: It is probably extremely safe to assume a general 1:2 ratio of shock to outside rim/sidewall movement...so 1" of shock movement is roughly 2" of movement at the outside of your rim/sidewall

Are you going lowers only? If so what top mount are you going to run? Feelings and thoughts
Billy