Autoride bypass

[ColombiaPunk]

Is it possible to have functional autoride in the rear while going to non autoride up front? I'm assuming it all shares the same air system? Does having the front not plugged in kill the air for the back?

 

[Rocket Man]

Is it possible to have functional autoride in the rear while going to non autoride up front? I'm assuming it all shares the same air system? Does having the front not plugged in kill the air for the back?

The front is only an electronic damping system; the air is only for load leveling in the rear. The complete system consists of electronic damping at all 4 corners and rear load levelling. Some consider maintaining Autoride as keeping the load levelling, while others think if you don't have the damping you don't have Autoride. You can disable front damping, rear damping or everything. There are normal front shocks that have resistors built in to disable the damping, the same for the rear but maintain the air shocks, or you can manually wire in resistors for the damping. And either run rear air shocks or normal rear shocks.

 

[MDC9966]

So much information, Let me add my noob question. My 07 LTZ 4wd, has z55 suspension. It has electronic shocks in the front and air shocks with a compressor in the rear. Does the z55 also have electronic shocks as standard for the rear built into the air shocks?

Also, looking at the fuse layout a few pages back, mine is an 07, there is no fuse 54 in it, and nothing listed for 54 on the fuse panel sticker. Which fuse in an 07 controls the compressor?

Right now,my front struts feel really stiff, maybe that's just the way they are. On the rear, the air shock boots are torn open and the compressor doesn't come on. No fuses are blown and I have no error codes on the dash. Nothing is unplugged.

Is it normal to have a compressor fail and not throw a code? The rear is standard height still about 2" higher than the front. I would think it would be lower with the shocks blown but I guess the springs must be stiff enough to keep it up, or if the shocks are electronic, do they have fluid in them too and that's what's keeping the ride from bouncing around?

Any thoughts and suggestions or experiences of failed shocks / compressors are appreciated.

thanks,

 

[okfoz]

It has been a few years since I messed with my 07 shocks in the rear. If I remember correctly The autoride ride and the load levelers are different systems. The load sensors for ride height are not connected directly to the shocks and you would retain the load leveling shocks without the autoride plug. You can adjust the ride height by turning a cam IIRC.

I got a rear pump off of Amazon from Dorman, and the first one took a dump after a year, but they have a lifetime warranty, the second one has been going well for 1.5 years. The rear shocks without the autoride, I am not sure if they have the air lift or not.

 

[BW 07AvyLTZ]

I have an 07 Avalanche LTZ & I am looking for verification on the Autoride & Auto leveling delete. I want to delete the front struts & rear air shocks and replace w/Bilstein 5100's. I can order the resistors (25w-3.9 Ohm-5%) from ebay/amazon. Does it matter if gold or green?? (I wouldn't think so). Do I need 4 or 6? 2 for front struts, 2 for rear shocks & 2 for auto leveling? This is where my uncertainty starts. I don't want any steering issues. I hear this when removing the 30 amp RTD fuse under hood. I want to remove the compressor completely. Can I do this or does it need to remain to stay plugged in? Also, do I need to replace rear coils with LT coils?

 

[BW 07AvyLTZ]

Looking for help with my 07 ltz avalanche. I did away the factory shocks and bought new struts, coils, and shocks and installed a 5" lift. Then put the resistors I bought from an eBay seller on. But still get the the service suspension message. I removed the air compressor as it was shot and unplugged the ride height sensors. Still get the the service suspension message. Where do I go from her?

Have you corrected your issues. I have same vehicle and looking to start this process to eliminate autoride & autolevel. Can you share what must be done to rid all codes?

 

[Mitch Jewell]

The front is only an electronic damping system; the air is only for load leveling in the rear. The complete system consists of electronic damping at all 4 corners and rear load levelling. Some consider maintaining Autoride as keeping the load levelling, while others think if you don't have the damping you don't have Autoride. You can disable front damping, rear damping or everything. There are normal front shocks that have resistors built in to disable the damping, the same for the rear but maintain the air shocks, or you can manually wire in resistors for the damping. And either run rear air shocks or normal rear shocks.

I have a 2010 Cadillac Escalade and did a 2/4 drop. It use to have magnetic ride control on the front do you know what resistors I need to turn off my light<
thank you

 

[TacticalTahoe]

So I had all but decided I was doing the bypass but seen a comment about steering being all wonky afterwards. Anyone else have this problem. I can’t find the comment to ask the poster if they figured out if the steering issue may have been from something else and not the bypass

 

[67RS427]

So I had all but decided I was doing the bypass but seen a comment about steering being all wonky afterwards. Anyone else have this problem. I can’t find the comment to ask the poster if they figured out if the steering issue may have been from something else and not the bypass

The bypass wont mess with your steering at all... You might be referring to someone mentioning that the steering wheel sensor being bad can also cause a Service Stabilitrak or Service suspension light. I have my 40amp ABS fuse pulled to disable traction control and stabilitrak and I have zero issues with steering. Adding resistors simply tricks the ECU to thinking you still have the air ride hooked up so you don't get the dash lights.

 

[TacticalTahoe]

The bypass wont mess with your steering at all... You might be referring to someone mentioning that the steering wheel sensor being bad can also cause a Service Stabilitrak or Service suspension light. I have my 40amp ABS fuse pulled to disable traction control and stabilitrak and I have zero issues with steering. Adding resistors simply tricks the ECU to thinking you still have the air ride hooked up so you don't get the dash lights.

Ok cool, I was wondering how it even could have, and only one person had said it effected theirs out of all the posts I’d read. I’d like to stay original but it’s an 07 and I could see how wires getting old down the road could mess things up again (as in wiring within the frame or wherever). So it seems like the smart move is to make it old school n simple so it’s one less thing to go wrong when she’s 20 years old (I plan to keep her, she’s been a good or over all)