Autoride suspension help

[gooffeyguy]

@Doubeleive @George B

Which line from the GM line kit did you use for the driver's side replacement?

The kit comes with 3 lines. The shortest is clear with 90* ends and is longer than the stock one that we're replacing because it's tighter now with Arnott's lower connector. The other 2 lines are black with straight boots on one end and 90* on the other, and the shortest of those two is about 2' long

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[Rocket Man]

@Doubeleive @George B

Which line from the GM line kit did you use for the driver's side replacement?

The kit comes with 3 lines. The shortest is clear with 90* ends and is longer than the stock one that we're replacing because it's tighter now with Arnott's lower connector. The other 2 lines are black with straight boots on one end and 90* on the other, and the shortest of those two is about 2' long

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The clear one goes from the comp to the T. So it must have been the longer of the 2 black ones, which is meant for the passenger side.

 

[George B]

@Doubeleive @George B

Which line from the GM line kit did you use for the driver's side replacement?

The kit comes with 3 lines. The shortest is clear with 90* ends and is longer than the stock one that we're replacing because it's tighter now with Arnott's lower connector. The other 2 lines are black with straight boots on one end and 90* on the other, and the shortest of those two is about 2' long

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

The clear one goes from the comp to the T. So it must have been the longer of the 2 black ones, which is meant for the passenger side.

Used the shorter clear one on the driver side.

 

[Doubeleive]

I used the clear one for the drivers side shock

 

[George B]

Moving this here since this thread is a good source of info.

Ugh! C0585

• Checked the plug > Good
• Checked the resistance of the shock > Open
• Plugged it back in and drove to work > No service suspension message anymore.

I suspect a faulty shock.

Going to check the code again when I get home.

View attachment 278265

2013 Suburban LTZ, 5.3, 3.42

Or perhaps a faulty connection. Whenever I remove the connector from those, I use electrical contact cleaner before I put it back on. Otherwise I get the same error.

But what about the fact the shock tested open with no resistance? Should be around 3.5 Ohms right?

 

[George B]

Chasing my C0585 for the left rear. I measured the resistance of the right side and got 2.5 ohms. The left side is open for all practical purposes and requires me to be in the 20k or 200k range to see any resistance. Replacement shock on order from RA.

 

[George B]

Did a little troubleshooting tonight. When I clear the code it sets again immediately. Since the right side shock measured 2.5 ohms I found a light bulb that measured the same. I plugged the bulb into the connector for the left side and used my tech2 to clear the code and then command the actuator. The light comes on and the code doesn’t set.

New shock is on the way.

 

[Rocket Man]

Did a little troubleshooting tonight. When I clear the code it sets again immediately. Since the right side shock measured 2.5 ohms I found a light bulb that measured the same. I plugged the bulb into the connector for the left side and used my tech2 to clear the code and then command the actuator. The light comes on and the code doesn’t set.

New shock is on the way.

View attachment 278417 View attachment 278418

*light bulb goes off in George’s head*

 

[George B]

Swapped out my flakey shock today. Left the liner in the wheel well. It was alright but next I Will take it out.

took a reading before I installed it.

 

[Joeltz]

Very good info , my 2015 LTZ @ 100,500
never hear the pump run…. Believe it’s both rear shocks and the pump, and one question on the pump is what wire connectors do I.. hot wire just to see if the pump runs…. Good forum here thanks