Autoride vehicles / Question.

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mcnoskyimages

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Why do all of the trucks I see w/ autoride look awesome w/ a 2/3 drop but have the rake of death with a non autoride truck?

I have a 2/3 on my 02 Kon and I will probable need to a "4 rear spring to get it to look like I want it.

Suggestions?

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:46 PM ----------

Are all truck pre wired for it just without the components?
 

NORCAL SS

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all you need is the belltech spring in rear with shock extneders. its 3-4 inches adjustable.
 
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mcnoskyimages

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Sorry for the long post. I just really need to get the correct help with the issue I am having. It's driving me NUCKING FUTS!

Other than getting the rear to look the way that I want it, I am having a serious safety issue. On the hwy, it wants to bob and weave like it's on balloons. This is the current set up.

-Beltech "2 front spindles
-Ground Force rear spring kit. (Don't have any specs. Hope you knew more than me. Part # 11876)
-Stock shocks. Smooth ride option
-Shock extenders
-Rear bump stops removed
-Front bump stops remain but have worn unevenly
-"20 Silverodo SS replicas w/ 275-50-20's

Originally, I installed the rear springs with the shocks that were in the kit. Then turned the TB's down w/o keys. Thought the ride was to rough so I got spindles and Beltech Nitro Drop 2 shocks. It was still riding rough. Found out I was riding on the rear bump stops and removed them. That's when things started to get crazy. It didn't feel as rough after removing them but it was scary to drive on the hwy. I did not like going over 65mph. So I removed the shocks and put the stock shocks back on. It got better and surprisingly raised the rear about ".5. I could drive it 70-75 mph w/o getting puckered. So then I tried to set the front TB's back to a stock position then had it aligned. I think I set them up too high because there was vertually no give in the front. It felt like walking with out bending your knees. You know how you get that stiff side to side motion. I was getting it at all speeds. So, this week I lowered the TB's half way. It's not as stiff but a lot more sloppy. That is where I am now.

My thoughts as to the reasons for the problems
-Stock swaybar end links are too long and are preloading the swaybars
-Shocks
-Rear springs are too stiff
-Front bump stops are hitting and transferring rebound unevenly

What are your thoughts? I would love it if you knew of anyone in the DFW area that would be willing to let me ride in their truck to see how it feels to ride in a correctly lowered Yukon or Tahoe.

I don't want to say I want to do it the cheap way but, I am looking to spend as little as possible to get it set right. We are on a little to no budget to correct the issue. If I can not figure it out, I will be forced to put everything back to stock. Thanks for your help.
 

NORCAL SS

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front spindles dont change ride so with stock front shocks (that arent blown) and spindles it should be fine.

in rear at this point i would look into doing the djm 4" trailblazer rear spring and the rear djm hardware kit along with the belltech lifting spacer and rear djm shocks The truck will sit much better and so you know the rear djm set up will cure all your problems. Ive swapped many rear belltech sets out along with mcgaughys and the djm trailblazer 5 inch drop spring and ride is much better.
 
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mcnoskyimages

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Are the trailblazer springs progressive or constant rate?

Whats a lift spacer? Body Lift?

Would you think the bobbing and swaying be more from the shocks or swaybars?
 

NORCAL SS

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No belltech offers a 1 inch spacer that goes on top of the spring which fits the trailblazer spring which will lift it up 1 inch and ive used many times.

Honestly your rear combo is not the greatest front spindles dont affect shock stroke its coming from the rear.
 
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mcnoskyimages

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How much is the Trailblazer kit? What shocks should I run up front. Do they make swaybar end links available separately?
 

NORCAL SS

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the rear tb springs i have a deal with djm where i can get them by themselves due to my trailblazer community.

springs are 195 shipped and belltech 1 inch spacers are 35 shipped

the rear djm kit you cannot just get the endlinks by themselves and doesnt matter because with a 5 inch plus drop you need the rear trailing arm kit also.
 
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mcnoskyimages

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Is that price with or without shocks? I am assuming without.

What I am understanding is if I do go with the TB springs I will also have to get the lower control arm kit as well. Is that because that is the way to get the end links, the LCA's are a different length, or they are essential to controlling the rear?

Would it be possible to get away with the TB springs, matched shocks, shortened end links, and stock LCA's and swaybars?

I do have a replacement set of Nitro 2's coming. What are your thoughts on those?
 
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NORCAL SS

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that price is just springs/spacers.

ifyou do more than 4 inches in rear you need the djm kit which is new endlinks/and new trailing arm brackets to reposition them and yes even at 4 inches i would do it but you can get away with it. 5 inches or more you need that djm kit.


the djm rear kit comes with the endlinks and the trailing arm brackets. you still use the stock lower control arms and stock swayabrs.

I sell both the nitro 2 and the street performance and the street perforamance belltech has much better valving.


honestly i woudl do the street performance front/rear shocks and the djm rear kit and will ride a lot better and just use stock spindles in front. IN rear if you do the tb 4 inch spring with the belltech lifting spacer you can get away without running endlinks/trailing arm brackets but if you want to back to get lower then 4 inches then you will need to do it.

So for now do the front/rear street performance shocks and the rear tb spring with the belltech 1 inch spacer and you will be set to go. if you allready ordered the nitro 2 shocks then make sure they are 20.5 inches max extended if they are longer you will need shock extenders of the springs will pop out when you lift the truck up.
 
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