ItsAdam1
Master Fabricator
ya 110-135 is no where enough pressure I am running 200 psi in all my bagged cars with 3/8 line. You will need at least 175 psi to lift the front end of these heavy trucks.
BAGS going in!!!
- Thread starter SSmurdered
- Start date
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very true. i couldnt get this ***** off the ground unless i had bout 180.
and believe it or not this damn eclipse needed almost 200 to pop up the front cylinders. (cylinders=******** fyi)
every vehicle ive done was 1/2 valves and 1/2 line. i like to be able to lock it up quick. if youre going for the slow up and down then youll be fine. but you still want a bigger pressure switch. at least up to 200.. get an adjustable switch from suicidedoors.com they arent expensive. and itll be the best one youll ever have.
im bored.sorry
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Not cut?
wow thats him? damn... i saw running boards almost touching on stockies and figured it was a stock 4 link drop. my bad
OKLAGMCRUISER
Need drop...send $
I ran 150 pressure switch on my ext cab sierra and was able to lift from fully laid without a problem, but i was running 18 gal of air and an edc.
if you are running less than 8 valves then check valves are a must to stop transfer! 3/8" valves are plenty fast...1/2" are even faster, but you can go the cheap route and get hex head plugs and drill holes in them to slow down your discharge valves for easier control OR go with ride control plugs that are adjustable. Remember to add a schrader valve (to manually fill your system in case of compressor failure or if you're running nitro and you empty a tank and get stranded laid out) to atleast one of your tanks and a petcock valve to the bottom of each tank to drain your moisture that gets past your moisture traps!
Keep in mind too that not all tanks that are OTC purchased or online are rated for higher pressures such as 175 or 200...verify before purchasing to keep from hurting yourself or someone else.
if you are running less than 8 valves then check valves are a must to stop transfer! 3/8" valves are plenty fast...1/2" are even faster, but you can go the cheap route and get hex head plugs and drill holes in them to slow down your discharge valves for easier control OR go with ride control plugs that are adjustable. Remember to add a schrader valve (to manually fill your system in case of compressor failure or if you're running nitro and you empty a tank and get stranded laid out) to atleast one of your tanks and a petcock valve to the bottom of each tank to drain your moisture that gets past your moisture traps!
Keep in mind too that not all tanks that are OTC purchased or online are rated for higher pressures such as 175 or 200...verify before purchasing to keep from hurting yourself or someone else.
Last edited:
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
Well said!!!
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
i didnt get the brackets from airbagit, i just got the top and bottom plates. wasnt going to weld them on either, going to make them bolt on so if i wanna go back to stock i can. im not looking for speed this is my daily driver i just want some adjustability and a more comfortable ride. i was told that it will only take 50psi to lift the rear to ride height?? once i do the fronts if im having trouble lifting ill just upgrade the compressor and press. switch. ill have to double check this tank for the pressure rating.
fatnlowtahoe504
Full Access Member
put some pictures up of those brackets for the rear i might do some as well
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
will do. ups is on schedule for wednesday, sadly not sooner. i plan on having the whole rear done next weekend. ill probably do step by step pics for all yalls.
STAY TUNED GENTS!
