Beating The Same Dead Horse: A.K.A., lift advice!

[LittlePearl13]

Alright, I've done lots of research, and I know there are plenty of other threads about this, but I really would appreciate a straightforward answer, and some REAL details and REAL experiences. Sorry guys! Haha.

Anyway, I have a stock tahoe, 4wd, with a little sag in the ass, and I would like to lift it. I just want to run some bigger tires on my hoe, I don't even want an un-experienced onlooker to be able to realize it's lifted. If you check out Chatchie's tahoe, that's basically what I'm looking for.

So what are my options with that? I figure the best way to go is 2.5" or 3" blocks in back, but I'm clueless about the front. I know you can lift it by cranking the torsion bars, but I'm so new to this I don't even know what those are, really, or how involved that process is. Or how it affects the ride, and alignment, etc.

I don't really know much about the blocks either, I just figure that would be an easier job because you don't have to deal with steering and all that...? Also, I have this annoying suspension issue already, and I'm wondering if I fix it now, then do the lift, will I have to fix it again. I went to go get an alignment a while back, and it turns out there's something worn out in the front suspension idler and pitman arm assemblies, and my wheels sometimes go like this when accelerating < and this when I'm braking >. Should I wait to fix that until I lift it?

Or, instead of cranking the torsion bars, is buying a leveling kit a better option? It's more money, but it seems like it is less detrimental to the car and suspension overall.

Some other questions I have are: what brands should I be looking at? there's a local off-road shop that deals with lifts all the time, since I'm so new to this should I pay to have them install the blocks and crank the bars for me? will I need to get the truck geared after a lift and bigger tires? will I need to buy a slew of new parts? all the online companies claim all you need to buy are the blocks and the u joints, but is that actually true? when I'm buying the new wheels after, I'm thinking maybe 15" or 17" but I want a wider look, maybe around 8.5" or so? what backspacing and offset should I be looking for?

So basically I need the crash course in block/torsion crank and block/level kit lifts. Sorry guys! I know I'm just beating the snot out of this horse that's been dead for so long, but I'd still really appreciate the help. It's also a little embarrassing starting the millionth thread about this, but hopefully it'll be nice for everybody having ALL the information in one spot. Somebody really should make a sticky for all of this.

Thanks again!

 

[SunlitComet]

I personally would start by replacing what sound like old sagging spring packs first to return the rear to original height. Then also replace the worn front end parts next with an alignment to follow you will see and feel a difference in you truck when you are down and it will probably change how you feel about what you want to do to it a little.

If you don not fix the problems first they be masked by other changes later on and may be overlooked.

 

[bowtiefreak]

first things first, fix whats wrong.

As for a lift here are your options as I see it:

1) a litle block out back and crank up the front, this will get about 2"
2) 2 or 3" body lift. lowest cost other than teh block and cranking
3) a real 6" lift. there are 2-3 inch lifts out there and you should stay away from them.

The cranking the front will add more strain and weat parts out a little faster depending on how high you go.

One you determine the route you want to go we can point you to brands and so on.

This may help: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16774&highlight=post+your+set+ups

 

[the big blue bus]

fix front first it will just be worse with bigger tires. mine goes all ovcer the place wehn stopping. and if your just doing a crank and block do it yourself not too hard. done all the lift on mine in my drive way with basic tools. 3inch bl with 2inchg rcx block and about 1 inch crank with saggy torsion bars

 

[LittlePearl13]

OK, thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going for a 3" block in the back... so my next question is it would be worth it to buy new torsion keys instead of just cranking it, right? I've found a few "leveling kits" which are just new keys that claim to add from like 1.5" to 3" for around $100.

I'm also getting the front fixed next weekend. It's wrecking my tires. I'm not sure why I was so hung up on that

If I'm planning on lifting it about 2 or 3 inches, should I replace my shocks? they're pretty old anyway (lol stock), but will I have to get longer ones?

 

[bowtiefreak]

your stock keys should be enough to crank more than you should so save your money.

 

[LittlePearl13]

Right, but doesn't it wear certain parts out much faster? If I can find a cheap pair I'd rather do that than have more stuff that needs repairing.

Anyway, I've decided I'm going to downsize to a 15x8 rim, 3.75" backspace, and if I lift it right and get 3" blocks, I think I should be able to run 33"s. I know that's a huge jump in tire size, and weight,and it takes a lot more energy to rotate something like that, so I'm going to have to regear, correct? What does that process involve?

 

[SunlitComet]

The primary problem with cranking the keys is the angle of the half-shafts afterwards because it can cause them to bind some. Just don't overdue the cranking. there are halfshafts that can handle extreme angle but are expensive. When you re-gear your axles are pulled out so the differential carrier is removed so the ring and pinion gears can be replaced. You would preferably use a master rebuild kit as well that includes new bearings, seals and the like. The rear can be done while it is still on the vehicle . The IFS carrier case will have to be removed to do the front.

 

[LittlePearl13]

Sounds like that's a job I'll be paying somebody to do. So I'm definitely going to have to do that if I go up to 33" tires, right?

 

[SunlitComet]

it would be best. without the re-gear you would be looking at about a roughly 9% difference in the speedo readout alone from a stock tire to a 33 so imagine what that does to your drivetrain. you will loose power going to the ground and it will put a strain on your tranny also killing gas mileage and emissions over time.