Black bear tune help..

[TogaPC]

This thread is awesome thanks for the feed back but I have some noobish questions what is the MAF and PCV even thought I have tons of post the lingo is still new to me I have only been in and around my car since December. Thanks guys.

PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation Link and MAF is Mass Air Flow sensor Link.

The PCV valve is an often overlooked maintenance part. Both the MAF and PCV valve should be checked and cleaned or replaced if necessary at least once a year.

Also, I would never run anything less than 93 octane if you have a 93 octane tune unless it was unavoidable. That being said I have to run 91 when I go home to see my folks but I generally run some octane booster to compensate. If you only have 91 octane than have Justin send you a new file for 91 octane. Your not going to see any benefit from getting a 93 octane tune and running 91 octane fuel.

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

If i add performance parts after the tune will it bog down they possible hp/tq i could be getting with a retune? im going to TRY to add as much as possible before the tune bc idk when the next time justin will be in NJ lol

 

[THE-HOE]

If i add performance parts after the tune will it bog down they possible hp/tq i could be getting with a retune? im going to TRY to add as much as possible before the tune bc idk when the next time justin will be in NJ lol

If you add performance parts after your tune it will not "bog" it down, but it will mean that your tune is no longer optimized for your specific set up. Think of it this way, If he gets your AFR (air fuel ratio) perfect with your current set up, then that is your engine making its maximum potential HP for those modifications, So then you go and add a intake, and exhaust and this changes the amount and rate that the vehicle can breath in air and let exhaust out then the tune will no longer be perfect and it would be best to get a re-tune.

 

[TogaPC]

^ +1

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

What are some lower budget performance enhancing things I can do to this rig every item under 450...Ik AEM polished brute force is on my list..what else!?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[tahoe7689]

I got my K&N intake for around $300 from the auto parts store (O'Reilly's). It would be best to do all these mods before you get the tune, and if you cant get it done in time for Justin to tune it in person, you could always get on the live cable tune list when you have finished modding (or when youre close to done that way you would get the cable about the time youre done).

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

im planning im doing some stuff before i get the tune im looking at the AEM Brute force i found it for $230+ shipping i would go k&n but i dont want a oil filter and its xheaper and better looking as far as im concerned it preforms just as well =D what about E-Fans?

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

whats everyones thought on BB's autocal.....i dont have the money for it now and have already put down 50 dollars for the Nj meet but i think in the long run itd be better to have so you can tune and update tunes as you mod...

 

[langsbr]

While its not as detrimental on an NA motor vs forced induction, its probably not the best way to go about driving. The ecu only knows to pull timing ONCE it's detected knock. It has no way to know you've put in 87 instead of 93 and will try to give it all the timing its tuned for. It will knock, and then pull timing. I think the GM ecu will keep the long term compensations in, but Im not positive.

Knock is bad for any motor, and can lead to premature bearing failure. You may not think its that bad, but if the motor knocks at 150K instead of 225 or 250, do you really KNOW if it was the added bearnig wear from the knock?

Better to run the fuel its tuned for.

 

[TunasTwins]

While its not as detrimental on an NA motor vs forced induction, its probably not the best way to go about driving. The ecu only knows to pull timing ONCE it's detected knock. It has no way to know you've put in 87 instead of 93 and will try to give it all the timing its tuned for. It will knock, and then pull timing. I think the GM ecu will keep the long term compensations in, but Im not positive.

Knock is bad for any motor, and can lead to premature bearing failure. You may not think its that bad, but if the motor knocks at 150K instead of 225 or 250, do you really KNOW if it was the added bearnig wear from the knock?

Better to run the fuel its tuned for.

I agree that ANY knock is bad knock. I was under the impression that the PCM blends the high octane and low octane timing tables. Its called adaptive spark. Did anyone mention the coolant bypass mod and a lower thermostat?