Body Control Module

[Alberta Tahoe]

I did a search here, specifically this forum and only had one hit.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/body-control-module-bcm.85866/

My issues are listed here:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/electrical-issue-is-expanding.93566/

and here:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/intense-electrical-issue.92892/page-2#post-1113447

Anything I need to know about sourcing a replacement BCM? Is it acceptable to find a similar model at the wreckers and install it? Or is this a dealer only item?

 

[rockola1971]

BCM has to have the same part number as the one you remove. It will have to be programmed to your VIN. You may get one that works somewhat until you get it programmed.
They are all over ebay and can be found on carparts.com too.

 

[Granprixfan]

Speaking from experience...I had BCM go bad with non of the issues you have listed.
I don't like throwing money at problems as I'm sure your the same. I would suggest you continue with search in the forum to ensure that is actually the issue.

If it really is the BCM here is my experience, FYI;
In my BCM failure research here had all common symptoms like; open door or rear hatch or alarm going off for no reason. This is Not to say there other symptoms that a bad BCM would cause. I just have experienced those listed above.
If it is the BCM parts guy will need your VIN (and year of course). It's not a dealer only part, depending on where you live there are other options. I happen to be in a major metropolitan area with delear alternatives that sell parts exclusively for GM. That's not to say the NAPA guy can't get you this, I fact IM sure they can. Just get the same manufacture/supplier GMC put in there...likely Delphi. It's under the dash just above your brake.
My 2003 Yukon XL 5.3 4x4 the Delphi PN 15194170 List price $335 if you can get it under $200 get it. I'm sure the "stealer ships" are more $$$, around $400.
The shop I go to had the means of programming it they did it for $135 I recall dealer quoted over $200, but first wanted wanted to diagnose it for another $200

Good Luck

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

I'm not entirely convinced it's the BCM although at this stage of the game, with no progress, or more accurately stated, things getting worse, I'm becoming inclined to tow it to the dealer. My hope is that rather than them throwing parts at it, which is often what happens in these cases, (I was trained otherwise back in the day) some technician or mechanic will say "I've seen exactly this before" and I'll be in and out of there will minimal impact.
But that's wishful thinking.
As for my thoughts regarding the BCM, while I've never had any alarms go off, rough roads have initiated the door locks. They've also caused the gauges to drop to zero and made the data centre reset information such as the fuel economy display. It's similar to what I think would happen if the battery was instantly disconnected/reconnected.
Now, the gauges won't come on at all. Swapping the ignition switch (electrical portion) made no difference whatsoever. After turning the key to the run position, removing it would not clear the "idiot" lights. The fasten seat belt, low fuel and ABS lights remain on until the battery is disconnected (or a couple of other methods I've described). There is no start function at all. Turning to the start position doesn't affect the instruments as it usually does. No engagement of the starter whatsoever. More like the switch doesn't do anything but it was changed.
Without a thorough set of drawings, I'm basically stabbing in the dark.
I'm beginning to think that in my absence, while having parked the truck more or less functional (as in it would start and drive with only this intermittent issue popping up now and then) that maybe it was hit by lightning. That would explain everything....

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

(Copied from my other related threads)
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/intense-electrical-issue.92892/

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/electrical-issue-is-expanding.93566/

Thinking this over and considering the real value of the vehicle to me (both in what it's worth and what it would cost to replace) I'm of the mind that buying a 2nd one that's still running may be the way to go. I've found a 2003 model and a 2001 for under $1500 either of which might be a suitable donor. At the very least I can say that they don't have the same issue mine does (in that they're driveable) and I'd have a pile of parts to swap in an attempt to isolate the problem. My thinking is that a dealer could possibly cost double that amount and still not remedy the situation.
This '06 was purchased for $5000 a little over two years ago and besides new shocks, front shock bushings and tires, it's required nothing other than oil changes and an air filter.
Still thinking...