Brake Flex Line Replacement - Tips / Tricks / Photos

[corvette744]

@corvette744

I was really wanting to go with Goodridge for the flex hose replace on my Yukon as I've had good results with them on a diff't make, but if I'm going to have problems with their setup I may as well look for another manufacturer. I do most of my maint @ my apartment & I don't have the luxury of fiddle-fu[king around with half a$$ developed replacement parts. Does anybody have first hand knowledge of a plug&play kit?

I dont have any first hand knowledge of any other kits-if i was to do it over i would put all 4 corners on and bleed.If you feel a massive increase in pedal height and firmness,and the rear line is not cracked or leaking then leave it if not take it in.

 

[mals]

So today could have gone better. I swapped out the rear brake rotors, pads, parking brake shoes and hardware, and tried to tackle the four Goodridge stainless brake lines for the back.

The ones from the rotors to the axle hard line were a prefect fit and east to install. For the two that drop down from the frame to the axle it started off well, but didn't end up that way.

I used a crowsfoot socket head and a 12" 3/8" extension, and was able to swap both lines out in about 30 minutes.

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Unfortunately they both leaked at the upper fittings. I assumed I had the same issue as @corvette744 and the factory fitting was running out of thread before seating the flare in the fitting.

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So I went out and purchased two longer fittings, and cut and reflared both lines. Put it all back together and it is still leaking the same way, weeping out around the pipe at the back of the fitting. I assumed my flares were bad, I took it all apart a second time and reflared them both again. I took my time and both flares looked good. Put it all back together again, and they still leak. I'm calling it quits on these lines.

Tomorrow I am going to work on the NNBS upgrade to the front, bleed out the lines the best I can with the drips to fill the calipers, and then drop it off at my mechanic to replace my fittings and flares, and figure out how to connect the Goodridge lines to my existing hard lines.

If it hadn't been for these fittings I should have finished the entire brake job today, front and back. I lost about 5 hours today taking these fittings out twice and in three times. I will definitely be contacting Goodridge to let them know my experience with their product.

@Rocket Man - The main reason I wanted to make sure these were swapped out is that Goodridge explicitly states that if you are swapping lines, you need to change out all of them. Any remaining rubber lines will be the weak point from the potentially increased brake line pressure. I should have listed to everyone that suggested doing what I can, and leaving these lines for someone with the correct tools, fittings, and skills.

 

[Rocket Man]

So today could have gone better. I swapped out the rear brake rotors, pads, parking brake shoes and hardware, and tried to tackle the four Goodridge stainless brake lines for the back.

The ones from the rotors to the axle hard line were a prefect fit and east to install. For the two that drop down from the frame to the axle it started off well, but didn't end up that way.

I used a crowsfoot socket head and a 12" 3/8" extension, and was able to swap both lines out in about 30 minutes.

View attachment 187428​

View attachment 187429​

Unfortunately they both leaked at the upper fittings. I assumed I had the same issue as @corvette744 and the factory fitting was running out of thread before seating the flare in the fitting.

View attachment 187430​

So I went out and purchased two longer fittings, and cut and reflared both lines. Put it all back together and it is still leaking the same way, weeping out around the pipe at the back of the fitting. I assumed my flares were bad, I took it all apart a third time and reflared them both again. I took my time and both flares looked perfect. Put it all back together again, and they still leak. I'm calling it quits on these lines.

Tomorrow I am going to work on the NNBS upgrade to the front, bleed out the lines the best I can with the drips to fill the calipers, and then drop it off at my mechanic to replace my fittings and flares, and figure out how to connect the Goodridge lines to my existing hard lines.

If it hadn't been for these fittings I should have finished the entire brake job today, front and back. I lost about 5 hours today taking these fittings in and out three times. I will definitely be contacting Goodridge to let them know my experience with their product.

@Rocket Man - The main reason I wanted to make sure these were swapped out is that Goodridge explicitly states that if you are swapping lines, you need to change out all of them. Any remaining rubber lines will be the weak point from the potentially increased brake line pressure. I should have listed to everyone that suggested doing what I can, and leaving these lines for someone with the correct tools, fittings, and skills.

My instructions didn't mention anything about needing to change all of them, and even if they did I think that's BS. The pressure will be the same no matter what brake lines you have on there. They don't come with a "brake pressure booster". There will be a firmer feel because the lines don't expand and contract but the pressure doesn't change. Mine were in great shape and the reason I was replacing them with the braided ones was to gain a firmer pedal and I accomplished that. If I replace that 5th one I might gain a tad more but to me it's not worth it. I don't believe I'll have a higher probability of anything blowing out because I have 4 braided lines but if one was to blow, it would probably be that last rubber one. I agree with that. And of course they want you to buy 6 lines instead of 4. But you notice they also sell 2 line kits for just the front or rear.

 

[mals]

My instructions didn't mention anything about needing to change all of them, and even if they did I think that's BS.... But you notice they also sell 2 line kits for just the front or rear.

Interesting points, and I agree. But with me mainly using this rig for towing, I didn't want to leave any weak links. Most of that last post was written with some frustration, and didn't mean to question your decision. As a side note, all of my rubber lines look original, nice and dry and crusty.

 

[Rocket Man]

I c

Interesting points, and I agree. But with me mainly using this rig for towing, I didn't want to leave any weak links. Most of that last post was written with some frustration, and didn't mean to question your decision. As a side note, all of my rubber lines look original, nice and dry and crusty.

I can feel your frustration, that would definitely piss me off. Makes me glad I didn't try mine. Sorry you're having troubles.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

So today could have gone better. I swapped out the rear brake rotors, pads, parking brake shoes and hardware, and tried to tackle the four Goodridge stainless brake lines for the back.

The ones from the rotors to the axle hard line were a prefect fit and east to install. For the two that drop down from the frame to the axle it started off well, but didn't end up that way.

I used a crowsfoot socket head and a 12" 3/8" extension, and was able to swap both lines out in about 30 minutes.

View attachment 187428​

View attachment 187429​

Unfortunately they both leaked at the upper fittings. I assumed I had the same issue as @corvette744 and the factory fitting was running out of thread before seating the flare in the fitting.

View attachment 187430​

So I went out and purchased two longer fittings, and cut and reflared both lines. Put it all back together and it is still leaking the same way, weeping out around the pipe at the back of the fitting. I assumed my flares were bad, I took it all apart a second time and reflared them both again. I took my time and both flares looked good. Put it all back together again, and they still leak. I'm calling it quits on these lines.

Tomorrow I am going to work on the NNBS upgrade to the front, bleed out the lines the best I can with the drips to fill the calipers, and then drop it off at my mechanic to replace my fittings and flares, and figure out how to connect the Goodridge lines to my existing hard lines.

If it hadn't been for these fittings I should have finished the entire brake job today, front and back. I lost about 5 hours today taking these fittings out twice and in three times. I will definitely be contacting Goodridge to let them know my experience with their product.

@Rocket Man - The main reason I wanted to make sure these were swapped out is that Goodridge explicitly states that if you are swapping lines, you need to change out all of them. Any remaining rubber lines will be the weak point from the potentially increased brake line pressure. I should have listed to everyone that suggested doing what I can, and leaving these lines for someone with the correct tools, fittings, and skills.

Well this puts a little damper on my future plans, too. Sorry to hear about the trouble. Keep us up on what you eventually find to have been the problem. It's highly valuable info.