Brake pads and rotors for 2013 Yukon XL 2500 4WD?

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jsoltren

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Thanks for the tips everyone. My pre-purchase inspector reported that the pads were at 80% but he found some pulsing at speed that could be the rotors. I'm getting some squealing too with light to moderate pressure. OEM pads and rotors are so inexpensive online that it was silly to not just pick them up, instead of worrying about it and paying the 200-500% markup of a local repair shop.

I get that the markups help them put dinner on their tables, but it does so by taking food off of mine, so, we all need to get along somehow. I gladly pay a premium for labor, never parts, unless it's a fuel pump at 3am in a blizzard with my family in the back...
 
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jsoltren

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These days I go OEM parts unless I've seen and tested the aftermarket part in person. OEM parts are like the waterfall development model in software engineering: it's boring, but it's dead simple, and it works.

I feel like every single non-OEM part that I've purchased has had some minor fitment issue that ruins it. Cheapo window switches? Different shape and font though claiming part compatibility. Tow mirrors? Either there is no physical way for me to see behind the vehicle, or, they don't stop short of the door, meaning that when some moron at the garage slams them closed I get a fresh dent on my door. Radios? The fitment is often poor, factory buttons don't work, and all sort of little things don't line up.

For the most part the engineers at GM did their job. Sometimes they didn't (don't get me started on broken door handles). But a fine vehicle is a system, everything needs to work together.

I'm sure GM's brake guidelines are based on real world testing, in different temperatures, with different loads up to and past GVRW. They selected the components they did for a reason. These things go in cop cars, ambulances, and the like.

I'm into airplanes too. One of my favorite videos is the Airbus A380 brake certification tests. They take brand new tires and file them down to be exactly at their minimum allowable thickness for takeoff. They do the same to the brake pads and the brake discs. Then, they fill the plane up to maximum weight (fuel plus ballast), put it on the shortest, most downhill runway allowable at max weight, wait for no wind, and abort a takeoff at the last possible instant. The plane has to stop short of the end of the runway AND remain standing for five whole minutes. The brakes and wheels catch fire doing this - they're write offs - but it works.

I don't know that GM did this with our trucks. Maybe? Would be great to see it.

On trucks, like on bicycles, I don't screw around with brakes.
 

bfourman

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For what it’s worth I put BrakeMotive drilled & slotted rotors with Powerstop pads on my ‘00 Yukon XL 2500. I towed heavy with it and the BrakeMotive stuff worked great with no warping or fade for 4 years. Dusting was no more noticeable than OE style pads. The pads looked great the last time I had the wheels off right before I sold it. I’m going to be purchasing the same kit for my 09 Suburban 2500 soon.

The kit can be had on eBay for just over $100.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Dril...~Sdbakp3:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!46304!US!-1
 
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bfourman

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Correct. I never got around to upgrading the rear brakes because they are beefy as-is and the front takes the brunt of braking. IIRC 3/4 ton rear brakes are the same calipers and pads as 1/2 ton front brakes, with 8 lug rotors obviously.
 

intheburbs

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<snip>

I'm sure GM's brake guidelines are based on real world testing, in different temperatures, with different loads up to and past GVRW. They selected the components they did for a reason. These things go in cop cars, ambulances, and the like.

<snip>

I don't know that GM did this with our trucks. Maybe? Would be great to see it.

On trucks, like on bicycles, I don't screw around with brakes.

I work with the auto industry. I also have a friend who's a transmission validation engineer at GM. He works at the Milford proving grounds, and basically flogs vehicles for a living. He was complaining a few months ago about having to do 100 full-throttle clutch-drop 1/4-mile runs and hard, full power at-lockup braking stops in the new Camaro ZL1. While it sounds like fun, it actually gets pretty tedious after the first few dozen or so.

My point is that, yes, GM has put these braking systems through the wringer, likely much worse than we've ever done. While I'm not a fan of the half-ton braking system, the 8600-GVWR OEM setup leaves me wanting for nothing. I've had to make two panic stops running at my max 16,000-lb GCWR with an 8800-lb GVWR, and had no concerns or issues. And I also didn't plow into anyone or anything in front of me. Though we had quite a mess to clean up in the trailer.
 
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jsoltren

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Pads and rotors are here! All AC Delco parts. I'm hoping to get them installed next week. Thanks everyone!
 

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well since nobody drives like I do, I will just say good premium ceramic pads make all the difference in the world as far as stopping power and longevity, the only thing better technically is carbon fiber but they are noisy and make tons of dust.
 

FoghrnLeghrn

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I sell different brands of brakes and the customers always have great things to say about the Powerstop truck\tow pads and rotors. When I need brakes it's what I will use.
 
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jsoltren

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I went with OEM rotors and pads on my 3/4 ton. They're fine. Nothing to write home about, just good, reasonable street brakes.

My mechanic buddy reminds me that the trouble with drilled and slotted rotors is that you can't turn them if they need it. Though, he also reminds me that he prefers to just swap out the entire rotor instead of turning them these days.
 

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