Brake stuff... OEM =$$$ or not oem much less expensive?

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inkadink

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I took the front wheels off my 1997 tahoe yesterday to check the pads. It looks like I should change out the pads at least. Upon further investigation I see that my brake bleeders are rusted off and they are round. Also the brake rotors are wearing uneven and look like they would need to be turned.

I looked up brake parts for my hoe and I see that the calipers are really cheap (15-25 dollars a piece) if I buy rebuilt ones but new oem are very $spendy$. The same holds true for for the brake rotors.

I figure why not just replace the rotors and calipers and pads all at once and make everything like new again or should I drop 5x plus the money on delco oem stuff to get the job done?

Also,, the brake pads are a bit of a concern for me as well. Buy semi-metallic or go for the full on "quality" ceramics? Will I see better longevity and consistency with ceramics in regards to rotor wear?

It is all to easy too do all of this at once if I am already in there to do the pads. Should I just buy the inexpensive parts and just change it all or do OEM have thier merit and likewise the $$$?

Thank-you for your replies and ideas as I appreciate it very much.
 
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ravingmadman

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I'm using stock everything, with the exception of ceramic front pads. The brakes on these rigs are admittedly on the inadequate side, and a little soft, but of all my buddies who have hoe's who complain about soft brakes, usually they just don't have their rear brakes tightened up enough on the notched wheel. I also like to keep everything stock, since you can always find parts if something should go sideways in the middle of nowhere... Not like that's ever happened to me or my hoe...
 

clean454

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ahh i need to do breaks on my rig anyone kno how to adjust the rears? ive never done it and was told they adjust when u go in reverse or something like that
and i think they should be ok if i apply the parking break on a hill in neutral with my boat on the back it doesn't roll. im not sure if that means anything or not,

but id try and get oem but if the refurbished stuff comes with a warranty it should be fine lol its oem parts that are just rebuilt right?
im sure there wont be a huge difference
but get good rotors and a decent set of pads and u should be good to go! ( or should i say good to stop)
 

ravingmadman

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Yeah, the rear brakes adjust on their own, with the same technology from the 60's. When you slam on your brakes, if there's too much play in the rear, a little lever pushes a notched wheel and rotates it to get the rear brakes to at least engage. This is not adequate though. Adjusting your rear brakes is super easy.

Jack up the wheel, remove the wheel. Pull off the drum (it should just fall off, but might take some wiggling if it is well-worn, and the shoes are hanging). You'll see the adjustment wheel right between the brake shoes, probably covered in brake dust. Just take a flat head screwdriver, and rotate the wheel. You'll know you've got it right when you can barely get the drum back on. If you go too far and can't get the drum back on, just turn the adjustment wheel the other way. Too easy.

I usually like to go out on wet pavement after I'm done, usually the fred meyer parking lot next to my place, and smash the brakes a couple times to see which wheel skids first, and if I lose the rear end before/after the front ABS kicks in. There's no rear ABS that I'm aware of on our rigs. Handy little piece of info.
:drunk:
 

clean454

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Yeah, the rear brakes adjust on their own, with the same technology from the 60's. When you slam on your brakes, if there's too much play in the rear, a little lever pushes a notched wheel and rotates it to get the rear brakes to at least engage. This is not adequate though. Adjusting your rear brakes is super easy.

Jack up the wheel, remove the wheel. Pull off the drum (it should just fall off, but might take some wiggling if it is well-worn, and the shoes are hanging). You'll see the adjustment wheel right between the brake shoes, probably covered in brake dust. Just take a flat head screwdriver, and rotate the wheel. You'll know you've got it right when you can barely get the drum back on. If you go too far and can't get the drum back on, just turn the adjustment wheel the other way. Too easy.

I usually like to go out on wet pavement after I'm done, usually the fred meyer parking lot next to my place, and smash the brakes a couple times to see which wheel skids first, and if I lose the rear end before/after the front ABS kicks in. There's no rear ABS that I'm aware of on our rigs. Handy little piece of info.
:drunk:

wow good info im gunna do it today, isnt there a way to adjust them from behind the drum??
 

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