Brakes stick when stopped

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ATL

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i did my rear brakes a few month ago while the problem was present. nothing looked out of the norm to me, first thing to check for with a sticking caliper is pad thickness. if it sticks, one of the pads would theoretically have more wear on it than the other. but the pads had the same amount of wear. and thinking about it, i dont remember the specifics of the slides. i know to clean/lube them, so im sure i did that, but i dont remember anything out of the norm about them. my guess would be a dirty piston in the caliper. you can pull the pistols out, gently clean them, install new o-ring/gaskets and slap them back on. this is a simple process that anyone can do, and the only reason to buy a new caliper instead of rebuilding is if the piston has any damage to it. this job costs maybe $15($8 for rebuild kit, then some fluid) and once the calipers are off, it takes maybe 20 mins per caliper
 

Gzes

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Does it occur all the time or after rain? When miner started to stick it was a rainy day and I would skid when braking and it was that the drums needed to get a good wd40 on em so they could work properly. Worked great ever since
 

ATL

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Does it occur all the time or after rain? When miner started to stick it was a rainy day and I would skid when braking and it was that the drums needed to get a good wd40 on em so they could work properly. Worked great ever since

g bone capone! you sprayed wd40 on your brakes?!?!? fwiw, no one in this section has drum rears
 

Mike1980B

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i had a similar problem on my old 79 chevy k10. I would put money on it that your brake hose from the frame to the caliper is going bad. what happens over time, the interior of the hose begins to break down and fray , kinda like spit ends on hair. when you depress the brakes the fluid pushes past the frays and you stop, but when you release the pedal instead of the pressure releasing the frays open up and continue to hold the pressure in the caliper. I would recommend before tearing your calipers apart for a rebuild, replace the rubber lines from the chassis to the calipers with new OEM or braided stainless for better stopping performance. and replacing and flushing your fluid.
 
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DenaliAK

DenaliAK

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Just had a mechanic deny an alignment for me because he says I need new tie rods and pitman arms first. Maybe that's the cause??

Side note: he tried to charge me for the alignment anyway. I had to work at not saying or doing dumb things from there out. I was pissed. He was like, "well, we had to take time to put it on the rack..." blah blah blah. I said, "I signed a piece of paper when I gave you my keys agreeing to pay you for an alignment. You did not give me an alignment. Therefore, I am not paying you. I can take my truck to any shop and get a free estimate on repairs, which is exactly what you just gave me. If you want me to come back here for the repairs, you'll hand me keys and call it good."

Thankfully he did. I won't be back there, though.

/rant
 

ATL

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so did this end up being pitman and idler?
 
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DenaliAK

DenaliAK

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so did this end up being pitman and idler?

Sorry, should have followed up on this.

Yes, the "sticking" issue seems to have gone away with the pitman and idler/alignment. I honestly hadn't thought much about it since it stopped doing it.
 

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