building a system, could use some input

[jeffr630]

Alright so I'm working on building a system thats slightly bigger than what I've had up until now so I'm treading into unknown territory.

Heres what I'm working with:

Head unit: JVC KWNT30HD (touch screen, DVD, nav, HD radio, BT)

Front stage
Skar Audio VXI65 components in front and rear doors
AQ 120.4 4-channel 120w/ch at 4 ohms

Subs
2 Skar Audio VVX-10 in a ported box
AQ 1200 monoblock amp (1200w at 1 ohm)

What I need help figuring out is the power. I'd rather not get a ** alternator because that seems to be the most expensive option. I was thinking of doing the big 3 upgrade but I dont know whether to do 4g or 0g, and I also cant find a write up or how-to anywhere.

Right now I'm thinking about running a second battery and running 4g wire for the positive and negative between the two batteries and 0g to the sub amp and 4g to the 4 channel. I want to run a wire for the ground because I've heard its a better ground than the chassis and I hate finding a good ground on the chassis. Normally for a 1500+ watt system I would run 0g wire but I figure with a second battery it would reduce the current between the two batteries.

What would you recommend for the second battery? Obviously it should be a deep cycle. I would like to find one thats around $150 or less, and I would like to put it under the middle seat next to the amps. I know this probably sounds unconventional but I was thinking about getting a miniature marine battery thats used for jet skis or trolling motors. I really don't need it to be a high end car audio battery. I'm also wondering about a battery isolator? I dont know the actual name for them but they're like a high current relay.

Any input would be appreciated, preferably from people who have experience with a bigger systems.

 

[aldrichg9]

I'm pretty sure a jet ski battery is starting only.
Probably not deep cycle like you were talking.

 

[chip]

Optima. Hands Down. I would get a Red top (for dual purpose). No need for capacitor.

 

[jeffr630]

greg, thanks for the correction. chip, i think you mean the yellow top? the only red tops i could find were starting only. anyway, i ended up buying a small form yellow top, i bought it on the advanced auto parts website for 25% off due to a labor day sale. so that discount pretty much brought it down to my preferred price range. after tax it came out to $165.

now that i have the battery taken care of, i still need to figure out the big 3 upgrade and the battery isolator. any thoughts?

 

[chip]

greg, thanks for the correction. chip, i think you mean the yellow top? the only red tops i could find were starting only. anyway, i ended up buying a small form yellow top, i bought it on the advanced auto parts website for 25% off due to a labor day sale. so that discount pretty much brought it down to my preferred price range. after tax it came out to $165.

now that i have the battery taken care of, i still need to figure out the big 3 upgrade and the battery isolator. any thoughts?

Yes. You're correct. I apologize.

Here are the specs: http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en/products/yellowtop/

IMO: Make your own Big 3 kit and forget the Capacitor (unless you really want it). GL with everything!

 

[Denali0229]

There is a good write up by Modded on how to do the Big 3. It will show you step by step. I believe its in the tech section for 2007 and newer trucks. But if you are going to take the time to do it, I would do it in 0 gauge. No sense in wasting money on the 4 gauge. I doubt you'll need a new alternator. You should be fine with what you got and two batteries.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bigsteve04Ho]

Adding the second battery and the Big 3 should be plenty for what youre doing. Just google Big 3 upgrade and there are thousands of links and You Tube videos on the subject. Also there are a few on the forum. Good Luck

 

[stereodesigner]

As for the big 3 I ran two 3k amps and two 1k mids/highs amps totaling 8krms not fake max Watts on 4 18s...
You can get away with 4gauge for the big 3 as long as its True four gauge I leave stock wires hooked up when I do the big 3 just as precaution....
Run 0 gauge to your second battery not 4 gauge...I always ground my second battery to the chassis instead of a whole run to the front...
Whatever battery you decide on make sure its sealed if its gonna be in the cab non-sealed batteries put out toxic fumes....any questions feel free to shoot me a message

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[brassknucklemafia]

if your going to bother to run 0ga to your amp from the battery, then you should forget the 4ga between batts and go with 0ga as well. and do the big 3 in 0ga also.

 

[jeffr630]

update, i decided on all 1/0 gauge. went with the knukonceptz KCA. it is CCA wire, i realize its not as good as pure copper, but i did a fair amount of research on the subject and i decided the price difference was worth the performance sacrifice.

if you didnt notice in my earlier post, i got an optima yellow top for a good price. so i'm running 1/0g for the big 3, between the batteries, and from the yellow top to the sub amp, and 4g to the mid/hi amp.

on a different note, i am looking for someone who would like to collaborate with me in designing a bad ass box for my two 10s. I dont know too much about designing boxes and i would like to find someone with a program that will calculate dimensions using the T/S parameters. if you would like to or know anyone who likes designing boxes, let me know.

also with all this upgrading i do/will have a lot of extra gear i need to get rid of so if you're looking for anything, send me a message or something.

btw thank you to all of you who have given advice, it is greatly appreciated