Building the SS(V) TrailHoe

[Bill 1960]

Spent a couple of hours today jacking up one wheel at a time and checking the runout on the ProComp steel wheels and the General Grabber rubber, using a dial indicator. Nothing out of tolerance. So the shakes I have are just a half assed balance job on one of the fronts.

I wanted to be sure the wheels were OK before swapping tires. The wheels were beat on and dropped in shipment because ProComp used cheap boxes. Two of the four arrived with the boxes shredded and the wheels falling out.

Ordered a set of BFG KO all terrain rubber. The Generals whine significantly and it aggravates my tinnitus so they have to go.

 

[Bill 1960]

Ordered a set of these inexpensive steps / sliders. Not advertised as "real" sliders but they will give some protection. APS IA03SAC1B.

Stock image, not my photo.

Later on I plan to build my own, as there seem to be no real hard core offroad sliders offered by vendors for Hoes, but I don't have time for that right now and it's a long climb up.

 

[Sparksalot]

Ordered a set of these inexpensive steps / sliders. Not advertised as "real" sliders but they will give some protection. APS IA03SAC1B.

Stock image, not my photo.
View attachment 273602
Later on I plan to build my own, as there seem to be no real hard core offroad sliders offered by vendors for Hoes, but I don't have time for that right now and it's a long climb up.

I have a set of those on my wishlist. I’m curious how they do versus the running boards. Also if they are tucked a little higher.

 

[1BADI5]

Yeah if they just mount to the pinch weld/seam.....in the even you rub or smash a rock on the trail, you'll do more damage then good.

Mounting of rock rails needs to be considered, IMO, wait and buy the correct set for you desired needs.

 

[Bill 1960]

Installed the new longer front driveshaft I had built to regain some engagement at the transfer case. Plus 7/8”. Along with a new boot at the slip splines. And of course new Spicer U-joints with zerks.

The original shaft was working fine, and still had adequate spline engagement, but the boot was under tension and pulled off at one end.

Boring stuff, but an important detail for long term durability.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Curious why greasable joints? I had one fail and have seen many reports of them being weaker especially under load like big tires.

 

[Bill 1960]

Curious why greasable joints? I had one fail and have seen many reports of them being weaker especially under load like big tires.

Old habits as much as anything I guess. I’ve had no issues with reliability of the lifetime sealed joints, and I have zero intention to operate this thing in flooded conditions where water intrusion could be a issue. I don’t think strength in this application matters, the front diff will grenade long before the universals get stressed. Most of the stress fractures on universals are front axle shafts where the torque is 3-5x greater.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Oh, come on I wanted to see some deep water crossings! I'm sure they will be fine unless you're doing some neutral dropping, what size joints are they 1350?

 

[Bill 1960]

Oh, come on I wanted to see some deep water crossings! I'm sure they will be fine unless you're doing some neutral dropping, what size joints are they 1350?

No, GM uses something else, I needed to use OEM size to fit the factory yoke at each end. Dana 5-3147X is greasable or 5-795X is lifetime sealed.

 

[Bill 1960]

Ordered a reusable gasket for the rear diff. Next week I’ll be servicing that. I’m a fan of reusable gaskets because I do change my gear oil periodically, plus if you ever have to do a trailside repair you won’t be fiddling around cleaning and applying RTV and waiting on it to cure. And I don’t like paper or felt. PN LLR-G850.