Catch can green light for me, edited

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jfoj

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@ReaperHWK

That's a good amount of oil, I recommend checking and draining the catch can about every 2000 miles just so you do not run into problems with an overly full catch can.

Just think how all that oil could be treating your intake path and intake valves.

How many miles on your 2015? The higher the mileage and the more the blowby, the more the oil catch can will fill up. So as the vehicle ages, you may need to check and empty the can more frequently.
 

ReaperHWK

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@ReaperHWK

That's a good amount of oil, I recommend checking and draining the catch can about every 2000 miles just so you do not run into problems with an overly full catch can.

Just think how all that oil could be treating your intake path and intake valves.

How many miles on your 2015? The higher the mileage and the more the blowby, the more the oil catch can will fill up. So as the vehicle ages, you may need to check and empty the can more frequently.

About 160k miles. It’s used by my wife for kid transport so makes tons of short trips. Mostly city driving.

I bought it used when it had 104k on the clock. It had no catch can on it for all those miles and I had to pulled the intake to clean the intake valves. They were coated in oil. I mean caked!
IMG_3839_Original.jpeg
 

jfoj

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@ReaperHWK

Thanks for sharing. It is crazy what happens to the intake path on the DI engines with no fuel behind the intake valves. While it can be cleaned up, it is no fun to do or can be expensive. Wonder how many engines have had larger sections of carbon break off and cause problems within the cylinder(s)?

Too bad the vehicle did not have a catch can from day 1. While it may not keep the valves pristine, I am sure they would have far less carbon and oil build up on them with a catch can.

I know some of the Fords are using both Port and Direct Injection on some motors. While I do not think the Port injection is specifically for the intake valve deposit build up, it probably helps a lot on those engines.
 

the blur

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What is the best setup for a 2013 ?? I know this is the wrong forum... but ...
I've seen $20 all the way up to $200. Racing applications, street applications, etc.
 

fozzi58

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I still swear by my MightyMouse catch can. You probably don't need the extreme version unless you plan on boosting the truck like I did, but they make a real quality product. Its been on my truck 6 years (2017 Burb).

I have read good things about the JL catch can also but I have no experience with it.

@ReaperHWK There's a bulletin on how to clean the intact track using GM provided detergents etc without taking the motor apart.

What is the best setup for a 2013 ?? I know this is the wrong forum... but ...
I've seen $20 all the way up to $200. Racing applications, street applications, etc.

JL or Mightymouse. Stay away from the $20 amazon catch cans
 

JMH1980

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I have a 2016 Yukon XL Denali with 98,000 miles.
I bought it used in 2023 with 75,000 miles on the odometer.
At 77,800 miles, the lifters failed. The repair was covered by power train warranty 100%.

The day I got it back I installed the J&L catch can. I empty it monthly with a reminder set on my Google calendar. It's usually about 1/3 full.
 

iamlegion

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I have a 2016 Yukon XL Denali with 98,000 miles.
I bought it used in 2023 with 75,000 miles on the odometer.
At 77,800 miles, the lifters failed. The repair was covered by power train warranty 100%.

The day I got it back I installed the J&L catch can. I empty it monthly with a reminder set on my Google calendar. It's usually about 1/3 full.
Is your hypothesis the catch can would have prevented lifter failure? Trying to understand the context there.
 

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