coil over conversion installed

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Atomic

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Posts
216
Reaction score
16
Location
Huntsville, AL
What yall have is obviously working fine since yall seem to like it. If you bottom out the shock you will definitely know it lol. I am probably overthinking it.

He updated his thread and said his new bushing was working good so far, but wants to put more miles on it before he makes a final judgment.
 
OP
OP
04blackout

04blackout

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
233
Reaction score
1
I noticed that its alot better the more I cranked it up, but it just doesnt have a lot of up travel... well not enough for me to really feel good about lowering it

If he gets it dialed in I will for sure follow suit
 

digitalfiend

Expert Overthinker
Joined
May 31, 2013
Posts
254
Reaction score
27
Location
San Antonio, TX
...

def gonna get the new 6" rear springs, most likely gonna get the full adjustable rear arms at the same time. Thinking about going the full 6" in the rear, bringing the front down to match it and picking up some 285/35/24 tires and going really low. Gotta see if the new springs fix my rear woes first though

I really like my 6" drop springs that I got from Tony, and I highly recommend them.

A note about the threads left on the bottom of the shock. When I installed mine I was very careful to make sure that at ride height the shock sat right in the middle of its travel range. I made a little mark on the shaft with a sharpie before I put things together. The reason for this is you dont want the shock hanging out around the bottom of its range since you risk bottoming out. Same with the top except you risk over extension. I have also seen 40% down from the top so you have 60% travel for compression.

My point is, simply adjusting it to where it sits right might have other consequences, especially on a really short shock.

Bump stop adjustment is also critical here.

Thanks for the reminder on the position of the shock (40/60). I also strongly agree with your point on the bump stop adjustment. This further reinforces my concerns on not having to run the procomp adapters because 1.5" could be the difference between a good or a terrible ride.

That's why im still watching that charlie murphy thread. I would love for him to come up with something to use the stud top mount to get the extra 1.5" of travel

I wonder how well the bushings from the djm front shocks would work out:

http://djmsuspension.com/products/1315/

Or even the bushings from the top of the stock shocks. However, maybe with the full load of the springs & shocks they wouldn't hold up.
 
OP
OP
04blackout

04blackout

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
233
Reaction score
1
I wonder how well the bushings from the djm front shocks would work out

they wont hold up. the guy over on PT.net has tried a whole slew of different bushings and they just arent strong enough to support the weight. apparently his new method MIGHT be suitable, and if so, this will open up all kinds of possibilities for us:hmmm2:

---------- Post added at 06:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 PM ----------

I just checked in on charlie murphy... seems that his new method is holding up pretty well. Looks like he has 4340 steel as a washer under the 95a polyurethane then another big washer, all as one piece smashed together, and thats the bottom "bushing" and then same for the top. I looked it up on ebay, and cost would be $20 for the polyurethane $8 for the piece of steel rod... I think I might order a piece of each and give it a shot. Worst case scenario it doesnt hold up and I swap back to the pro comp adapter
 

Atomic

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Posts
216
Reaction score
16
Location
Huntsville, AL
If it works out for you I could have some washers cut for basically nothing from whatever thickness steel.
 
OP
OP
04blackout

04blackout

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
233
Reaction score
1
If it works out for you I could have some washers cut for basically nothing from whatever thickness steel.

o'rly? :hmmm2:

i just sent a PM to digitalfiend about cutting up some 4340 like that guy did. im willing to pay for the materials and guinnea pig this stud top for the tahoes if i have someone to cut it for me. i have access to the same kind of band saw he used and cutting it would be no problem, but a nice, perfectly square cut would be ideal
 

Atomic

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Posts
216
Reaction score
16
Location
Huntsville, AL
I just have to draw it up in autocad and email it to the place I have laser cut the main brackets. Two concentric circles should take about 3 seconds to draw lol. I was thinking 1/4" thickness. Any idea what size you want? Only thing though is there is a $50 minimum order.
 
OP
OP
04blackout

04blackout

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
233
Reaction score
1
I just have to draw it up in autocad and email it to the place I have laser cut the main brackets. Two concentric circles should take about 3 seconds to draw lol. I was thinking 1/4" thickness. Any idea what size you want? Only thing though is there is a $50 minimum order.

the polyurethane was 1 1/2" and the 4340 steel was 1 3/4". i would think 1/4" would be plenty for what were doing, but to be honest, that $50 minimum is gonna make it a little cost prohibitive

i may just end up ordering some and cutting it with the bandsaw... if i take my time (lol) it should go pretty smooth
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,714
Posts
1,873,113
Members
97,539
Latest member
Elio_vega
Top