Constant ticking @ top of engine... lifter?

[Professor L Gee]

Quick update:
Had to put the Yukon on hold because (1) work was super busy for the past couple of weeks, (2) I've been car shopping to replace my Infiniti, and (3) NC has had a LOT of rain recently.

With the help of Youtube and my neighbor's fuel line release tools, I finally got the intake off. Lemme tell you, I wish I still had my swivel adapter, because those bolts in the back are an absolute pain. Other than that, it was way easier than what I would have had to do for the same job on my Infiniti (don't get me started on how the manifolds have to come off to replace a valve cover on a VQ engine... but that's for another forum).

Now to get the VLOM cover off, but I'll save that for later this week. It doesn't seem like it wants to come right off, even with the ten bolts out.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Quick update:
Had to put the Yukon on hold because (1) work was super busy for the past couple of weeks, (2) I've been car shopping to replace my Infiniti, and (3) NC has had a LOT of rain recently.

With the help of Youtube and my neighbor's fuel line release tools, I finally got the intake off. Lemme tell you, I wish I still had my swivel adapter, because those bolts in the back are an absolute pain. Other than that, it was way easier than what I would have had to do for the same job on my Infiniti (don't get me started on how the manifolds have to come off to replace a valve cover on a VQ engine... but that's for another forum).

Now to get the VLOM cover off, but I'll save that for later this week. It doesn't seem like it wants to come right off, even with the ten bolts out.

@Professor L Gee Sounds like you're on the right track. I personally don't have much faith in un-sticking a lifter because once it starts to rattle like yours.. the damage has already begun to happen to the cam and lifter.

A rubber mallet can be useful to help break the seal of the rubber gaskets that have baked and glued mating surfaces together.

 

[Professor L Gee]

@Professor L Gee Sounds like you're on the right track. I personally don't have much faith in un-sticking a lifter because once it starts to rattle like yours.. the damage has already begun to happen to the cam and lifter.

A rubber mallet can be useful to help break the seal of the rubber gaskets that have baked and glued mating surfaces together.

Since the tapping wasn't accompanied by any misfires or stumbles, I'm remaining optimistic that any damage is minimal. Under more generous circumstances I would go about replacing everything, but for now I'm hoping that getting the lifter unstuck will hold me for a while, along with some other preventive measures.

Speaking of which...

I went back out there this afternoon and figured out what was keeping me from getting the valley cover off despite removing 10 bolts.
There was an 11th bolt in the back.

I used the hammer trick that y'all mentioned (and that I saw in a few places on YouTube... shout out to CrazedPerformanceRepair), and it took less than 30 seconds of gentle (really, gentle!) tapping for the pushrod to go rocketing out of the hole. Wish I had taken a video of my own.
So the rocker arm is now back in place, and I believe I've seated the pushrod correctly. Need to turn the engine over to make sure, but I don't have a 24mm socket.

More updates to come.

 

[Professor L Gee]

Another big update...

So I finally got almost everything else done:
- new spark plugs and wires (pro tip: if you have the intake manifold off, plug #8 is a piece of cake )
- new valve cover gaskets and grommets
- reinstalled intake manifold
- reconnected everything else

And the rocker ticking is gone!
I had a rough idle, a vacuum leak that increased in pitch when I gave it some gas, a CEL with four codes (P0107, P0122, P0223, P0443), and a low oil pressure message after maybe 3 minutes of idling. Checked my oil level (fine), looked for leaks around the valve covers and on the ground (none), cleared the codes, started 'er up again and just went back and forth in my driveway. No codes or messages came back thus far, and oil pressure was at 40 on startup before settling to 20ish as per the gauge readout (fingers crossed while knocking on wood).

Anyway, here's a video of today's result before clearing the codes. After clearing them and tightening the throttle body to the intake manifold (I took it off and put it back on in the process or removing everything), it sounds a lot smoother though the slight vacuum leak remains. I plan on driving it around a bit later - in M5, of course. And an oil change is on deck for this weekend.

 

[donjetman]

If your happy? I'm happy, except for the vacuum leak? Whats that about?
Fix it?

I guess I need to go video my engine at idle. I swear mine is much quieter than that?

 

[Professor L Gee]

If your happy? I'm happy, except for the vacuum leak? Whats that about?
Fix it?

I guess I need to go video my engine at idle. I swear mine is much quieter than that?

It sounded much better once I cleared the codes, and it sounded almost normal when I took it for a few drives.
Well, except for the vacuum leak, which I think is related to the intake system. I'll sort that out soon.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Very nice man!

How are things with it now? What remaining problems are there?

 

[Professor L Gee]

Very nice man!

How are things with it now? What remaining problems are there?

Still have a slight vacuum leak on the intake side... I think I have to tighten down the manifold. Beyond that, I've had no problems.

I still have to replace the wire conduit in a few places, but that's about it. Oh, and I have a Range disabler on the way to hold me over while I decide whether to go full delete on the AFM system.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Still have a slight vacuum leak on the intake side... I think I have to tighten down the manifold. Beyond that, I've had no problems.

I still have to replace the wire conduit in a few places, but that's about it. Oh, and I have a Range disabler on the way to hold me over while I decide whether to go full delete on the AFM system.

@Professor L Gee I ran a Range but had to remove it to pass smog and the first time AFM turned back on I had A lifter collapse, the lifter ended up sorting itself out and I was able to get 6 more months out of it but ended up going with a blackbear tune to turn off AFM in the computer. HP tuners is also a good one I’ve heard, a lot more DIY than the black bear tune.

 

[iamdub]

@Professor L Gee I ran a Range but had to remove it to pass smog and the first time AFM turned back on I had A lifter collapse

Awakening after a long hibernation is what concerns me about "temporarily" disabling. Tune it out or delete it!

HP tuners is also a good one I’ve heard, a lot more DIY than the black bear tune.

A lot more, like 98% more DIY. You had better know what you're doing! I still stand by the cheap way of disabling, where applicable: https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm