Convert away from Z55 and lift. Extra parts suggested?

[tatrhed]

Hello everyone, new here and kind of to Tahoes. I was a jeep guy in the past so IFS is somewhat new territory for me when it comes to lift.

Short Version: What extra items do I need (bump stops, UCA, etc), if any, to run a 2" level correctly? Background below

I have a 2007 LTZ with the Z55. One of the shocks is leaking, a hose is out and the compressor is shot. I bought this to use as daily driver (maybe 5k miles a year) and mostly weekend overlanding vehicle. I don't know how the Z55 package as whole will handle that. I don't rock crawl but need something for fire roads and trails to get to remote fishing/camping locations. I want to put a mild lift/level on it. From what I have found, if I want to keep the Z55 and lift it would be 4" minimum. I'm leaning towards running a 285/70r17 (currently have 275/55r20.) and think the 4" would be too much. I don't want to run 35's because I don't want to deal with re-gearing and all of the extra components to do a 7" lift the right way.

The truck currently has 125k miles and will probably replace all suspension, not just the shock, compressor and hose. I am considering a Fox 2.0 kit that levels the front 2" and comes with rear shocks. If I go that route, should I change the rear springs to something for a Z71? I'm not sure about the spring rate of the z55 compared to z71. I have also thought about the Arnott kit and using leveling pucks. Fox is has the full coil over front but no rear spring. Arnott is strut only but has rear spring. If I do either do I need to get extended bump stops to accommodate for the 2" extra travel? Is 2" enough to need new upper control arms? Anything else to keep factory geometry as much as possible.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@tatrhed The factory arms can handle 2 inches just fine. If you are planning on deleting the factory shock system and converting to traditional style Fox shocks just throw a set of aftermarket lift upper control arms for peace of mind and you'll be golden.

At this age, since you will have the front end apart anyways I would recommend refreshing the whole thing so that you don't need to open it back up in 20k.

For the rear you can do Moog 81069 Z71 springs and 1-2 inch pucks to level it with whatever height you make the front, I had to swap pucks 1 or 2 times to get it leveled the way I wanted it with just a tad bit of rake.

You can take a look at my signature to get an idea of what my setup is.

 

[tatrhed]

Hopefully this comes through on mobile..

Dustin: when you say “front end” what all do you mean? Tie rod, lower control arm, ball joints, or are you talking all the bushings too?

Running the moors you mentioned makes sense. Did you run the pucks solely for the rake?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[Fifty]

 

[tatrhed]

Fifty, Are those DSSV's that are on the ZR2 packages?

Does anyone know what the replacement coil for the front strut would be for the Bilstein 5100? They don't make a quick strut and can only find info on rear coils.

 

[Fifty]

Yea lol.
They are overhyped junk. Well they are better than a generic 2.0 shock. But their valving has very little low speed dampening. Really thin shafts too.

A proper 2.5 remote reservoir is much better. Less likely to over heat.

 

[tatrhed]

I have never ridden in a ZR2 but I all I hear is people rave about them. Interesting to hear a different perspective. Genuine question: Do you think any of your comments are due to different geometry/weight distribution of the vehicles?

 

[Fifty]

They are a great “head to the pond down the fire road” shock.

But the truck was advertised as a high speed trail truck. The shocks just sucked.

I was fortunate enough to meet some of the people on the suspension design team. GM pushed the truck out before the shocks (and a couple other parts) were developed.
PR and marketing did their thing and fanbois are what they are.

These shocks bend shafts if you sneeze and every single one spews oil.

 

[Fifty]

These are the proper rear shocks for the Yukon. I run the border patrol suburban rear springs and z71 suburban bump stops.
Front are the rough country forged arms. Yes I know they have a bad rep but the uca they make are awesome and about $220 for the pair.

Hard to tell in these shocks but the reservoir is clocked for better fitment for the Yukon frame. The Gm of the company has a 2007 Yukon I think that he puts through the paces.

A lot of testing hence the low port reservoir vs high port like most shocks.