Copper&Black's Complete Custom Build Thread

[Copper&Black]

No, ? The primer was wet sanded, but you can't wet sand the basecoat before the clear coat or any sanding marks will show through the clear, especially a metallic like the copper (At least that's the way I was taught). If you are referring to some dullness you might be seeing, it is just the rough clear coat and the angle of the light. Once I cut it down with some super fine sand paper, rubbing then polishing compound, and a wax job she'll be a mirror

 

[ecordell]

Don't do that wax job too soon Can do some ****** up stuff to the clear.......I've always been told to wait atleast 30 days.

You will get a hell of a shine though when you cut it with the 1000-1500 grit and buff it out. Try using a final glaze once you have it all buffed out and rinsed off. It's usually a dark gray compound that we've always put on with our hands, or a black foam polishing pad.

 

[BOSS]

Yes you want to allow the paint to cure and the solvents to completely evaporate from the paint before you wax, wax will prevent this from happening thoroughly. When the factory is done with the bake, it's mostly cured when it's cooled down but there is still a small 10% or so percentage that isn't. Body shops from what I understand, cure paint at lower temperatures, so the process simply takes longer. I wouldn't take a chance, I'd wait minimum 30 days before applying my first wax job, probably 60 if it was my vehicle.

The reason I ask about color sanding the base is because I've heard some do it. It's most advantageous when you personally know how much paint there is to work with of course. Some say that the final clear will hide any orange peel or blemishes in the base coat, and color sanding, compound, polish etc that final clear down to a final finish is all you need to do. I'm curious to know if this is what most are doing or what is recommended..

B

 

[Copper&Black]

Yeah I wasn't going to wax her up for a couple weeks. With the heat we have been having down here ("Feels like 107") I'm thinking it's helping it cure nice and quick. It's top of the line paint and clear also, Dupont ChromaBase/ChromaClear so I'm not expecting any problems.

I tried a light sanding of the base on a test piece awhile back before I painted the truck the first time, and no matter what I did the very light marks of the sand paper traveling one direction showed through once clear. I get better results just clearing it after the base has had enough time to dry up. I could be totally wrong about this but I think the sanding in between layers of base and clear is kind of an old school technique from back when cars were painted with lacquer paint. (I have no evidence to support this fact, but I have a keyboard in front of me, and it's now on the forum, so it must be true) My dad used to tell me how he painted his Austin Healey with 40 coats, sanding in between each...(After writing that I see where it all comes from now....)

Also I bought a 1/4 gallon of single stage flat black to re-hit the interior pieces. I wasn't happy with the glossy finish, especially if it will be right next to black leather.

 

[BOSS]

Also I bought a 1/4 gallon of single stage flat black to re-hit the interior pieces. I wasn't happy with the glossy finish, especially if it will be right next to black leather.

Ya the glossy black can really have a high luster which sucks..most interior blacks are semi-matte.

I'm going to spray my 65 olds with ppg's ceramic clear, it's hard as nails and from what I understand all the Benz' are now using a ceramic type clear coat for durability.

B

 

[ecordell]

Any updates Copper, you've slid to page 5 lol.

 

[Copper&Black]

Haha I know man, I'm slippin.
Haven't posted b/c nothing major has been done, and I'm not one to be posting just to keep the thread at the top. I've pulled a couple cables to the front for the rear hatch solenoids & camera through the void in the in the roof above the pass doors, and now it's ready to be sealed up with dynamat. Also ran a USB extension to the center console along the AC power cables for charging anything with a USB cable. I will be cutting and laying the Dynapad down this week.

 

[ecordell]

right on, so you're at the point of starting to button up the interior then?

 

[Copper&Black]

Yeah man, I want the carpet and the driver's seat in by next week so I can take it by an audio place to install my Viper 5902. I'm thinking it will be easier on them with it taken apart. And while it is there I will be finishing up some of the interior parts here at my place.

 

[Anthony]

Yeah man, I want the carpet and the driver's seat in by next week so I can take it by an audio place to install my Viper 5902. I'm thinking it will be easier on them with it taken apart. And while it is there I will be finishing up some of the interior parts here at my place.

I have the Viper 5901 and very happy with it! If you can figure out a way to auto-shut all windows+ sunroof on lock or (AUX-2 Lock) I would be VERY happy. Also, I was going to get the 5902, but couldn't justify the extra $150 for a color LCD