Decisions, Decisions...

[Joseph Garcia]

Another reason why I like a high capacity battery is that when I am working on the truck, I like to have tunes. With my 800 watt audio system, it will drain even a high capacity battery relatively quickly, and I like to minimize the amount of time that the truck idles, simply to provide tunes while I'm working on it. Further, many times that I am working on the truck, I cannot have the motor running.

Perhaps, the incremental increase in motor-off tune time is not much different between average and high capacity batteries, but I'd like to think that I am getting significantly more tune time.

 

[iamdub]

I'd disregard aiming for the highest CA out of those three. If 750 got you by just fine for this long, you're not gonna miss the 960. You mentioned a few instances where RC and AH are important for your uses, so, get the one that supports this the most. I'd go for #3. The extra weight is negligible and so is the extra cost, especially when you spread it out over 40+ months. It's pennies when you have the extra RC and AH. The extra CA is a little bonus and it has a longer warranty than your current one.

 

[swathdiver]

Another reason why I like a high capacity battery is that when I am working on the truck, I like to have tunes. With my 800 watt audio system, it will drain even a high capacity battery relatively quickly, and I like to minimize the amount of time that the truck idles, simply to provide tunes while I'm working on it. Further, many times that I am working on the truck, I cannot have the motor running.

Perhaps, the incremental increase in motor-off tune time is not much different between average and high capacity batteries, but I'd like to think that I am getting significantly more tune time.

Right, the Amp/Hours is about 4 more in Battery B compared to A and then C has over 10 Amp/Hours more capacity than A as well as 25 minutes higher Reserve Capacity. Another question I ask myself, does this extra capacity alter internal construction in such a way to shorten its life? I would imagine that Battery C has less fluid inside than the other two. But have no idea if and how it matters.

 

[Larryjb]

I would be opting for batter C with more reserve capacity. But are you sure your current battery is toast? I have been looking into Pulsetech and have revived at least one battery with their pulse charger. I have installed their Powerpulse into my truck as well. The last 3 batteries I got from Costco were sulfated from sitting on the shelf in the store. The 2nd one never got above 12.4V after charging. After using the Pulsetech charger for 3 weeks I managed to get it above 12.6 V.

 

[mackmcmillan]

Help me overthink this, which would you choose if in my boots and why?

Vehicle is an unmodified 2009 GMC Yukon XL 4x4. Currently has Battery A which is now 41 months old and is about wore out. This battery has never failed to start the truck.

I was thinking about the latter two as every month or so we're re-setting the air pressure in the tires with an air compressor that runs off the truck's battery. Once a year we take it to the drag strip and run the fans on high with the motor off to cool her down. Sometimes use the Tech-2 to check things out with the motor off as well.

Do I need and extra 5 or 10 Amp hours of capacity? Does an extra 8 pounds under the hood matter?

View attachment 238103

My apologies if this has been left, covered, etc, but this guy is a really down to Earth, awesome presenter just looking to test things. I have ad blocker, so I don't know how cluttered the videos may be, but this link is a really good watch - especially noting the same maker for multiple brands at vastly different price points, etc.

 

[OR VietVet]

This is the exact same guy that did the full synthetic oils tests that I saw. That is why I use the less expensive Amazon Basics full synthetic 10w-30 oil instead of Mobil 1. It was at least the same or better than Mobil 1 in all the tests this guy ran.

 

[swathdiver]

Have watched both of those videos and some more, great stuff. Changed my tape and glue choices because of his work.

 

[BRAAP]

Are these lead acid or dry cel?
If lead acid I recommend selecting the right brand first, “then” choose size within that. Interstate USED to be “the” brand, currently DEKA is.
For the most part all the lead acid auto batteries are manufactured at a couple/few facilities in the states, several from overseas. During Quality control each battery is given a grade, (spacing and wavyness of plates, lug quality, lug attachment to plates, highest performing in its cca range, etc). High grades went to the dealers willing to pay and sell them as a quality battery, top shelf, was the most reliable lasted longest, best performing in lead acid. Most chain auto parts stores, Costco, Les Schwabs here on the left coast, etc buy as cheap as they can, they get the low grade ones. I’ve seen Costco and Les Schwab batteries fail within a year or degrade quickly. Any how, Interstate no longer is being manufactured here in the US over past few years as a result quality dropped horrendously, still selling at same price on their old reputation... DEKA is the new top shelf standard in lead acid auto batteries and is equal or better than the old trusted Interstate.

My input is start with a quality brand, go to a dedicated auto battery/electric dealer and talk with the rep. DEKA brand is the one I personally use now for all my rigs and very satisfied, (John Deere tractor, both 01 burbs and our 01 Tahoe Z71, quads), then narrow down your choice to weight, CCA, etc within that brand.

Hope that helps.