Discovered A new way to cancel Cruise Control.

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iamdub

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iamdub,
Thanks for your thoughts. It seems to have gotten even more strange. If my lights are on, cruise does not cancel with the window switches... The lights will dim a little on the dash and the headlights will dim, but it does not cancel it. That seems to be my suspicion as well that the drain somehow causes the cruise to cancel.

Note: My DRL have not worked for years, I refuse to remove the bumper to replace the bulbs at this point. I will do that when a blinker or headlight goes out.

I do have an aftermarket subwoofer under my center console, with a remote amp, this might be a clue to something, maybe I will try turning off my radio and all of the accessories and see what happens. Then try it with everything on like heated seats, rear blower and the works to see if there is a change.

Even with that, why it would not work with my lights ON is beyond me.

John

That IS a bit more strange. Do you have LED taillights? I ask because the only connection I can come up with between the lights and cruise control are the brake lights/brake switch and it's not a power drain issue but a BCM issue and having the lights on "fixes" it?
 

swathdiver

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Are the windows even connected to the BCM?

Yes. I believe through the driver's door console. I can test and move the windows up and down with the Tech2 but it cannot test the rear switches. My RR window switch lets the window down but not up. The Tech2 cannot see that; I think!
 
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okfoz

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To answer your question, I bought LED driving lights... Paid big bucks for them, probably 2 or 3 times the price of Incandescent... and they burnt out in a season... Never again with AutoZone LEDs. What people probably do not realize is that a car does not have a 12V system, so get 14V or 15V bulbs.
 

iamdub

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To answer your question, I bought LED driving lights... Paid big bucks for them, probably 2 or 3 times the price of Incandescent... and they burnt out in a season... Never again with AutoZone LEDs. What people probably do not realize is that a car does not have a 12V system, so get 14V or 15V bulbs.

LEDs in general, and particularly those intended for automotive use, are supposed to have quite a wide voltage tolerance. That's not to say yours weren't low quality, though. Automotive LEDs intended for usable output get really hot so yours may have had inadequate heat sinks (aka "low quality"). Unfortunately, low quality isn't always sold at a low price so you're led to believe you're getting the good stuff.
 

iamdub

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Yes. I believe through the driver's door console. I can test and move the windows up and down with the Tech2 but it cannot test the rear switches. My RR window switch lets the window down but not up. The Tech2 cannot see that; I think!

Have you tried getting a little rough with it? A friend got a new-to-him '08 Sierra and the two rear window switches didn't work and the passenger side was finicky. We jiggled them for about 10 seconds each and they worked fine after that. The contacts were just a little corroded from lack of use. The driver side worked fine cuz it's always being used. I told him if it happened again we'd open them up for a proper cleaning.
 

dubyagee01

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My cruise will cancel when towing an empty trailer over bumps with the lights on. Dont know why.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

swathdiver

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Have you tried getting a little rough with it? A friend got a new-to-him '08 Sierra and the two rear window switches didn't work and the passenger side was finicky. We jiggled them for about 10 seconds each and they worked fine after that. The contacts were just a little corroded from lack of use. The driver side worked fine cuz it's always being used. I told him if it happened again we'd open them up for a proper cleaning.

Not really. I was going to buy a replacement and swap it out when we change all the inner door handles. Prefer not to keep pulling things apart and will put the old one in the spares bin.
 

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