DIY Alignment 07 Tahoe 4WD

[89Suburban]

BTW if you do any suspension work on these be carful not to knock out one of the pins. That happened to me so I have one missing. They are just steel dowels pressed into a hole in the frame ear. I am using a center punch in the empty hole for getting these adjustments done. Once you torque everything down it will hold.

 

[91RS]

"I'm watching you, Wazowski. Always watching. Always!"

A little big brother $h!T right there!

Lol. I had to look up the RPO code for the tires to pick which alignment specs and saw the open recall.

 

[Geotrash]

Lol. I had to look up the RPO code for the tires to pick which alignment specs and saw the open recall.

Busted, paw paw!

 

[gooffeyguy]

The 2 mounting bolts are straight, the bolt holes in the frame are slotted. There are small pins that stick out of the frame that the slot of the 4 washer keys slide on. Depending which way you turn the bolt head pulls the a-arm in or out. You adjust front to back for the castor and in or out for camber.

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

 

[iamdub]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

That's pretty much all there is to it.

 

[89Suburban]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

You can use a magic marker or scribe on the washers to relocate them in reference to the pins too. I like the factory washers as they have degree marks and if you are lucky factory alignment plastic locators. You are on the right track.

 

[gooffeyguy]

You can use a magic marker or scribe on the washers to relocate them in reference to the pins too. I like the factory washers as they have degree marks and if you are lucky factory alignment plastic locators. You are on the right track.

Mine doesn't have any of the factory plastic locators. Should I try to find/buy some or just not worry about them?

 

[89Suburban]

Mine doesn't have any of the factory plastic locators. Should I try to find/buy some or just not worry about them?

I wouldn't worry about them since yours are not there. Just take pics to reference everything before and after assembly. Try to get things close as possible. I notice you have a bit of build up around the washers to leave a nice relocating imprint of where to put everything back too.

 

[89Suburban]

I see now that the bolts are flat on the sides and the cams move with the bolt.

So when I replace my upper control arms can I just mark where the pins are on the cams and put them back as close as I can when tightening down the new ones and it'd be close until I can get in for an alignment?

View attachment 378400

View attachment 378401

Look, you already have plenty of existing reference clues to guide you.

 

[89Suburban]

Also look at the difference from the gap in the top of the washer slots from front to the rear (brake line is rear). The lower the washer is on the pin, it pushes the arm out. So the front is pushed out father than the rear. That is the positive castor angle.