Do you guys have a way to delete 15+ magnetic ride

[sclade66]

bhodge. Curious how the mag ride delete on the Denali is going. It has been a few weeks so you should have a feel if it works or not. Many lurkers like myself intersted. Thanks for the update.

 

[cbraga]

Finally got the Mag Ride deleted today. Thanks to Maxxed Performance in Baytown for installing the Fox coilovers W/ DSC adjusters and 2.0 rear shocks. The http://www.xineering.com dongles seem to be working like they should. We only got to put a few miles on it but the wife was happy. Better pics once i get it cleaned up.

View attachment 191006

Why do you still need the link on the a arm?

 

[Fifty]

What did you do with the rear air part of the suspension?

 

[yukonchief]

Ok I’m new to this game as I just bought a used 2017 yukon SLT. How do I know if mine has a magnetic ride?

 

[Tahoe14]

GMC Denali only.

 

[bhodge]

What did you do with the rear air part of the suspension?

Removed the shocks and left the compressor. The compressor runs from 15-20 seconds at startup. I am going to try and mount a tank and use the compressor to fill it but haven’t had time yet.

 

[adam3]

I just installed a set of Belltech shocks in the rear to match the ones I have up front. The Xineering kit should be showing up in the mail today or Monday. I have the air lines unhooked and plan on capping them eventually to avoid getting moisture in the system.

I have to say, after fighting the suspension on this thing for over a year, I am much happier with how it drives. It feels much tighter and more controlled. The Belltech shocks and Black Bear tune have finally made this a decent ride to drive around town

 

[jeff laing]

Removed the shocks and left the compressor. The compressor runs from 15-20 seconds at startup. I am going to try and mount a tank and use the compressor to fill it but haven’t had time yet.

You completely remove the shocks? Removing the electrical did not throw any codes or Do anything weird? I replaced my rear shocks but just zip tied on the frame rail just so I wouldn’t have any electronic issues

 

[cbraga]

Removed the shocks and left the compressor. The compressor runs from 15-20 seconds at startup. I am going to try and mount a tank and use the compressor to fill it but haven’t had time yet.

Everything still been good with this set up? Would love to ditch the MRC

 

[formula271]

The tuning of the Denali Mrc is good nowhere. It’s too light when it detects sway, like turning and backing out of a driveway, the car will bounce and rock forever like blown shocks.
Then when your lightly loaded it’s way too stiff on compression and soft on rebound.
Good luck driving down a used dirt road, the truck just skips around. On a smooth not washboard dirt road it’s almost as bad.

Towing is about the only time it does something right.

I drove a Escalade with 22’s and it has the 3 settings. I think there soft setting is such that you can drive on the street and the dampening actually keeps the tire on the ground and doesn’t skip, or bounce forever over any speed bump, hump, crack, pot hole,
Man cover etc etc.

The tuning on the Denali is just horrible. It’s the worst of all worlds regardless if the truck is empty or full,
Driving slow or fast.
Albeit if say it’s a little bit better fast but that’s probably because the aero causes the truck to float quite a bit and the suspension isn’t actually working as hard (except big hits)

Basically at the end of the day, the valving (by tune) is wrong for the vehicle, especially the XL. I don’t know if the XL and the regular are the same tune. That would explain some of it. Less complaints from the swb crowd.

And the shock does not have the heat dissipating ability should you try to drive down a dirt road for 20 miles at anything over a creep.

You can feel the suspension first get confused and get really really really stiff,
Then start to over heat and get really really really soft.

These Denali xl’s have a lot of weight for a very small amount of fluid that not only has to gain heat from its job, but then the electrical movement creates heat as well. Not a lot, but every bit hurts.

I agree with your comments 100%.

There are these brief moments where the system seems to get damping somewhat right....at a certain temperature, over a certain bump, at a certain steering wheel angle. But, mostly it's embarrassingly bad. Wallowy and disconnected while being outright harsh...smashing over relatively minor road irregularities while having that "tire not making constant contact with the road" feel. I have a '15 Suburban LTZ with the MRC and the standard 20" wheels. My production date is after the "harsh ride" was supposedly corrected.

A 2017 Tahoe LT I drove without MRC felt worlds better...I was genuinely impressed. it felt damped, and connected and managed to make a large vehicle feel like much smaller, tighter, and controllable. It felt softer and more compliant AND tighter and more connected. It also had the 20" wheels with same tires.

I read this thread with interest because I'm curious if there is any "factory fix" for this issue. I've not driven any newer MRC equipped vehicles, but have noticed that some of the strut and MRC ride control computer part numbers have changed. Surely, GM engineers cannot be complete idiots? They couldn't let this condition continue without countermeasure for 4+ model years, right? How the vehicle started production with the suspension set-up as on my vehicle blows my mind.

Does anyone know if any of these new p/n's for MRC ride control computer and struts can be retrofit to 2015 vehicles? And if they improve the condition, for that matter. At this moment, jury-rigging plugs to fool sensors and trialing a different strut with hopes that I get somewhere close to my 2017 Tahoe experience is not something that interests me....and something that a customer considering doing with a $68,000, "premium" magnetic ride control SUV with only 38,000mi should have GM outright ashamed.