DOD / AFM delete parts

[JKaechler]

Rolling back around to one of the original points.

I am looking at the kit from AMS racing
Link
This is using the 'Truck Norris NSR' cam, and includes lifters and trays. It is a 3-bolt cam, so VVT deletion would be involved here.
One common theme in other reviews, including the one that the other user linked at the top of this thread is to be sure and get proper GM trays. What is AMS Racing including in their kits? How can I look at them and verify that they are the real deal? I certainly dont object even to going to the local Chevy parts dept and buying a set of trays directly if i need to. But I dont know what to look at on the ones from the kit and determine if they are good to go.

Same Question on the Lifters. AMS has what appears to be their own lifter, which is cheaper. And they offer Chevy LS7 lifters. This strikes me as a place where you DO NOT want to save a few pennies. A failed lifter is an engine full of shrapnel


How do I know that I have the right lifters? identifying marks? casting numbers?

The cam in question is 'no springs required' but my springs have 240 thousand miles on them. I would likely pickup a new set of stock springs and seals just to be complete. and lap the valves while its apart as well.



I am working thru the process of determining if the kit route is more cost effective than simply buying the parts individually... while also being sure to get the best parts for long life.

 

[BlackBearPerf]

@BlackBearPerf

What if I already have an mpvi3 from HP tuners. Can you guys work with that or do I need the autocal hardware?

We use EFILive exclusively for tuning so we are not able to provide tuning via HPTuners. We would need you to go with our AutoCal option.

 

[Geotrash]

Rolling back around to one of the original points.

I am looking at the kit from AMS racing
Link
This is using the 'Truck Norris NSR' cam, and includes lifters and trays. It is a 3-bolt cam, so VVT deletion would be involved here.

Note that with an LSA of 107, that cam will have a pronounced chop at idle. This will impact brake vacuum, and you'll also need a higher stall TC to keep the idle surging at traffic lights from driving you crazy and wearing out your right leg from the pressure on the brake pedal.

One common theme in other reviews, including the one that the other user linked at the top of this thread is to be sure and get proper GM trays. What is AMS Racing including in their kits? How can I look at them and verify that they are the real deal? I certainly dont object even to going to the local Chevy parts dept and buying a set of trays directly if i need to. But I dont know what to look at on the ones from the kit and determine if they are good to go.

Both Summit and BTR sell GM trays for like 10 bucks each. I also don't see the VVT delete timing cover in that kit, so you'll need that too. This is why I assembled my own kit - every other kit I found was either missing something important I needed, or I couldn't verify the pedigree of the parts.

Same Question on the Lifters. AMS has what appears to be their own lifter, which is cheaper. And they offer Chevy LS7 lifters. This strikes me as a place where you DO NOT want to save a few pennies. A failed lifter is an engine full of shrapnel

It's possible that they're the same lifter, just private labeled. Melling is the OEM manufacturer for most of GM's lifters, so you can sometimes find a deal on those. I went with the Chevrolet Performance lifters for the same reason you mentioned: reliability and durability.

How do I know that I have the right lifters? identifying marks? casting numbers?

I measured each of mine with a caliper and from the first supplier I bought from, TWO were out of spec so far they wouldn't fit into the bores. This is another reason I went with Chevrolet Performance lifters - quality control. I sent the others back.

The cam in question is 'no springs required' but my springs have 240 thousand miles on them. I would likely pickup a new set of stock springs and seals just to be complete. and lap the valves while its apart as well.

The Truck Norris cam is .552 lift, which is too much for stock springs unless you get the upgraded springs from GM. I went with BTR beehives good for .560.

 

[JKaechler]

Note that with an LSA of 107, that cam will have a pronounced chop at idle. This will impact brake vacuum, and you'll also need a higher stall TC to keep the idle surging at traffic lights from driving you crazy and wearing out your right leg from the pressure on the brake pedal.

See, this is why i am asking a billion questions... I didnt know that lobe separation angle had so much to do with vacuum, and that has led me down yet another rabbit hole.

Leads me to this article

Lobe Separation and idle characteristics

www.hotrodders.com

valves open at the same time, at lower rpms, leads to effectively making a huge vacuum leak with every cycle of every cylinder.

 

[Geotrash]

See, this is why i am asking a billion questions... I didnt know that lobe separation angle had so much to do with vacuum, and that has led me down yet another rabbit hole.

Leads me to this article

Lobe Separation and idle characteristics

www.hotrodders.com

valves open at the same time, at lower rpms, leads to effectively making a huge vacuum leak with every cycle of every cylinder.

Pardon me sir, but would you mind if I try pouring on some gasoline to get that fire going? This book is worth its weight in GOLD:

https://a.co/d/0tayrWG

 

[JKaechler]

Pardon me sir, but would you mind if I try pouring on some gasoline to get that fire going? This book is worth its weight in GOLD:

Hallelujah! Reference material. Added to this coming payday's shopping list.

 

[fasteddy]

Congrats getting to 240K! Original Trans? Your tic is probably not an AFM thing, maybe just normal wear and tear on a 240K engine. LOL. I would not do major surgery (which DOD delete is) to a 240K engine. It's basically the labor associated with heads and cam. You may want to consider a crate 6.0 or 6.2 long block W/O DOD. IMHO its less risk and less work and much more benefit. Or just rip out the 5.3 and have it rebuilt w/o DOD. To me unbolting and engine is much less work and less technical work than heads, cam, lifters, gaskets, bolts, tools, and proper torque settings bla, bla, bla. Cuz at 240K miles you should at least get the heads rebuilt when they come off. Like before you are done with the DOD on the 240K engine you'll be into it for $1500-$1700. But I've bought rebuilt 6.0 long blocks for $2500 and most come with a warranty.

 

[JKaechler]

To me unbolting and engine is much less work and less technical work than heads, cam, lifters, gaskets, bolts, tools, and proper torque settings bla, bla, bla.

Amusingly I actually feel exactly opposite! I would rather tear down to the heads than deal with the stupid transmission removal, and its worse with the transfer case involved. Pulling off the inner fender liners allows pretty free access to the heads from each side.

The Trans was rebuilt about 20k miles ago.

 

[fasteddy]

It depends what you feel comfortable with....I guess. I just wouldn't put a new cam in a 240K engine. And I don't pull the trans to replace the engine. I just unbolt it from the Tq converter and the trans, Engine mounts, coolant hoses, harness connections.....and pull! It's just a big heavy part. Yours I would drive until it stopped running, then I would have it rebuilt.

 

[JKaechler]

Pardon me sir, but would you mind if I try pouring on some gasoline to get that fire going? This book is worth its weight in GOLD:

Indeed this is a whole pile of usefull information. Answered a lot of questions about rocker arms that i had not yet gotten around to asking as well.

In other news, I went ahead and got the BlackBear AutoCal. Did the initial scan and datalogging to have it tuned in its current form, and to provide a baseline for the after.

Now I am eagerly awaiting their reply to perform a brain transplant on the engine/trans.