DOD / AFM delete parts

[j91z28d1]

I was just about to say, if no one wants to waste time reading it, it says exactly what foggy said. vvt is worth about 15lbs of tq at 1500-2k ish.

from what I understand there's not really any tuning needed for the vvt on a stock non afm cam or even a small truck cam. if you did go bigger places like tsp include the map you can copy and paste into your vvt map in hp.

TSP Stage 2 VVT L99 Camshaft

NEW Texas Speed Stage 2 VVT-2.2 L99 Camshaft

www.texas-speed.com

Thanks to the Superflow 902 dyno, Texas Speed is the only company that currently offers a VVT camshaft with a phaser table included to properly tune the camshaft once it's installed in your Camaro!

 

[Marky Dissod]

I respectfully disagree.

I don't see the argument Marky Dissod.

I don't see where you think VVT can ADVANCE the cam timing.

Haven't disagreed with you. I never asserted the GM LS VVT advances timing. Clarified for anyone ELSE reading.

 

[tooleyondeck]

I think I missed an acronym here... TC? Torque Convertor? Is there a way to do it right myself? HP TUner?

Correct, TC = Torque Converter. If you already have a billet one with factory stall then that’s even more reason to consider a stock converter cam so you don’t have to go buy another one with a higher stall.

You “can” buy an HP Tuners MPVI and tune your car yourself but I would highly advise against it as it’s not as simple as writing script or code. You can literally destroy your engine if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Most dyno tuners will charge between $4-600 depending on where you live and could be a bit more depending on your mods.

As you can see from above, the community is divided on retaining VVT. My suggestion to delete it was based on keeping things simpler and opening you to more tuner options. Just make sure whatever path you decide to go you stick to it. Changing it up halfway will result in a lot of wasted $ and time.

Can’t wait to see what you decide!

 

[Geotrash]

As you can see from above, the community is divided on retaining VVT. My suggestion to delete it was based on keeping things simpler and opening you to more tuner options. Just make sure whatever path you decide to go you stick to it. Changing it up halfway will result in a lot of wasted $ and time.

Agreed. For my part, I opted to get rid of VVT on my 2012 for simplicity and durability reasons. Haven't missed it at all.

 

[JKaechler]

I am leaning towards doing the whole cam swap thing, and then getting black bear involved. In theory i should be able to drive immediately after all the installs, just on the factory programming.. do the logging and send the data off to black bear and they will do the difficult part.

cost wise, they are a bit higher than buying an HPTuner... but the learning curve is steep, and the potential for damage is steep too.

I think my theory relies on not going to extreme with any change i make... stick with one of the kits aimed at 'truck' usage. VVT / non VVT seems to be of lesser importance, as long as whichever kit i choose addresses it


Here is a thought. do i need to buy the blackbear package and get a data scan done before i do the install? or do i wait until i complete the install and have it driving again, then buy the blackbear and scan?

 

[Geotrash]

I am leaning towards doing the whole cam swap thing, and then getting black bear involved. In theory i should be able to drive immediately after all the installs, just on the factory programming.. do the logging and send the data off to black bear and they will do the difficult part.

cost wise, they are a bit higher than buying an HPTuner... but the learning curve is steep, and the potential for damage is steep too.

I think my theory relies on not going to extreme with any change i make... stick with one of the kits aimed at 'truck' usage. VVT / non VVT seems to be of lesser importance, as long as whichever kit i choose addresses it


Here is a thought. do i need to buy the blackbear package and get a data scan done before i do the install? or do i wait until i complete the install and have it driving again, then buy the blackbear and scan?

It’s best to get a scan on the thing before you do the delete, so they can have a reference point on your rig. Then send them the cam specs and they’ll get you a startup tune. Once it’s running you’ll do another scan for them on the prescribed drive cycle and they’ll send you the final tune. Works great!

 

[Marky Dissod]

do i need to buy the blackbear package and get a data scan done before i do the install?
or do i wait until i complete the install and have it driving again, then buy the blackbear and scan?

Firstly, the one best qualified to answer this question is
@BlackBearPerf
2ndly, I doubt that'd be the case if your ecu & tcu are any version of OE - BlackBear should have OE configurations on file.
If it's NOT OE, then I'd bet that you should find a way to provide that to BlackBear.
Maybe send them your Accell SuperTuner, so they can have a good look inside it?

 

[Geotrash]

Firstly, the one best qualified to answer this question is
@BlackBearPerf
2ndly, I doubt that'd be the case if your ecu & tcu are any version of OE - BlackBear should have OE configurations on file.
If it's NOT OE, then I'd bet that you should find a way to provide that to BlackBear.
Maybe send them your Accell SuperTuner, so they can have a good look inside it?

Agreed. Just sharing the process I followed when I did my cam swap. Black Bear suggested the approach, so that's what I did.

 

[BlackBearPerf]

I am leaning towards doing the whole cam swap thing, and then getting black bear involved. In theory i should be able to drive immediately after all the installs, just on the factory programming.. do the logging and send the data off to black bear and they will do the difficult part.

cost wise, they are a bit higher than buying an HPTuner... but the learning curve is steep, and the potential for damage is steep too.

I think my theory relies on not going to extreme with any change i make... stick with one of the kits aimed at 'truck' usage. VVT / non VVT seems to be of lesser importance, as long as whichever kit i choose addresses it


Here is a thought. do i need to buy the blackbear package and get a data scan done before i do the install? or do i wait until i complete the install and have it driving again, then buy the blackbear and scan?

We would love to help you out with the tuning! The best way would be to purchase our AutoCal, download the current tune files from the vehicle, and do a data log. When sending in the files, you can provide us with the cam specs and any other pertinent information related to the swap. Then you can do the swap, load the custom tune files, and do another data log. We will use that data log to further dial in the tune. The other way to do it is to download the tune files and email them to us to build a base tune for you. Then you can flash in the custom tune files and data log. As @Geotrash mentioned, it is nice to see a data log first in case other issues need to be addressed before the tuning.

 

[Coolman1987us]

@BlackBearPerf

What if I already have an mpvi3 from HP tuners. Can you guys work with that or do I need the autocal hardware?