Door sag

[MarkD51]

Just a quick question.
I know on my 4 door '97's driver door, the door catch was ever so slightly beginning to drag and mark-scuff the top of the Striker Pin.

Yes, I of course see the Splined hole to take a Spline Bit, and bought the correct bit.

I first taped all around the striker collar to insure I wouldn't lose reference to where it originally was positioned, and figured this would be the guide to know which way, and how much to re-adjust the striker bolt.

With a 1/2" breaker bar, I was unable to budge this bolt loose, and felt I was on the verge of stripping the spline drive out. At that point felt it was just something that was not supposed to move, and quit.

Of course I am assuming lefty loosey, righty tightey, correct?

(Please note, my door looks perfectly fine as for alignment, cannot detect any substantial sag by trying to lift the door, but there must be some ever so slight sag for this to now start happening.)

So, may I ask, is there a way to get access to the inside, where the threaded nut-plate resides, that something like penetrating spray can be applied to the bolt's threads and let soak?

Can the inside pillar cover be removed for access? Or no?

 

[PG01]

Just a quick question.
I know on my 4 door '97's driver door, the door catch was ever so slightly beginning to drag and mark-scuff the top of the Striker Pin.

Yes, I of course see the Splined hole to take a Spline Bit, and bought the correct bit.

I first taped all around the striker collar to insure I wouldn't lose reference to where it originally was positioned, and figured this would be the guide to know which way, and how much to re-adjust the striker bolt.

With a 1/2" breaker bar, I was unable to budge this bolt loose, and felt I was on the verge of stripping the spline drive out. At that point felt it was just something that was not supposed to move, and quit.

Of course I am assuming lefty loosey, righty tightey, correct?

(Please note, my door looks perfectly fine as for alignment, cannot detect any substantial sag by trying to lift the door, but there must be some ever so slight sag for this to now start happening.)

So, may I ask, is there a way to get access to the inside, where the threaded nut-plate resides, that something like penetrating spray can be applied to the bolt's threads and let soak?

Can the inside pillar cover be removed for access? Or no?

Yes you can access from inside but.....I wouldn’t move that just yet... buy a hinge rebuild kit and see where that gets you first. If its sagging its because of the hinges, not the striker moving.

 

[MarkD51]

Yes you can access from inside but.....I wouldn’t move that just yet... buy a hinge rebuild kit and see where that gets you first. If its sagging its because of the hinges, not the striker moving.

Hi,
Upon inspection of the Hinge Pins and Bushings, all looks rock solid.
My Tahoe only has 50K on the Odo. I've always maintained with lubes too.

And as I mentioned earlier, the door alignment to the rest of the body, and seams all look perfect to me.

So, you still think the hinge kit should be gotten? If so, from where would you suggest? Seems I've read through this thread, and it appears there is garbage out there to be had, that isn't quite as good as OEM parts.

 

[east302]

Just as an FYI, the plate behind the striker on my truck isn’t captive - it will fall down if the striker is removed completely. There isn’t a lot of adjustment in them, maybe 1/4” if that much.

I’d probably try the hinge bushings and pins first.


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[MarkD51]

Just as an FYI, the plate behind the striker on my truck isn’t captive - it will fall down if the striker is removed completely. There isn’t a lot of adjustment in them, maybe 1/4” if that much.

I’d probably try the hinge bushings and pins first.


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Yes, I gathered that the Plate was not captive.
But the thing is, I'm talking about a need to only maybe dropping that Striker about 1/16" at most to eliminate the latch from rubbing on the top of the Striker Flange, Knob, or whatever it might be called.

To me, and dealing with replacing the Hinge Pins seems like a lot of unnecessary work, and a whole lot of risk of possible scraping-banging up perfectly mint doors, door jambs, and who knows what for a measly 1/16", if that.

It's only just slightly began to rub that I see a slight rub mark on the top of striker flange, otherwise no issues yet of closing opening, or like I previously say, no play, and no mis-alignment of door can be noted.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I am getting back around to this. I had a hydroboost line explode and my exhaust fell off onto the street so the door got put on the back burner. I have realized that the bottom bushing i put in has some play. I think the hole its in a ******. I'm going to ream the hole and make a over sized bushing. Once that is fixed I will move onto replacing the latch assembly (i'm guessing)

 

[east302]

I had a hydroboost line explode and my exhaust fell off onto the street

Have to ask...was that all on the same day?


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[Squirrelsmith]

Have to ask...was that all on the same day?


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Haha no it happened over about 2 weeks, although it was all withing about 10 miles of driving

 

[magua]

I used a floor jack and cutoff block 2 X 4 under door when replacing bushings and pins

 

[the 18th letter]

The Cunningham bushings I ordered came and I got new pins from Dorman. The bushings that came with the pin allow the pin to fully seat but the CM bushings don't. I'm guessing I got the wrong CM bushings or, are the pins supposed to get tapped into the bushing? CM line has been busy all morning and I was hoping to get this done today.

ETA. Got it done today. Door moves clean. Got it done at an autobody shop. They did the pins and bushings, inner door handle and fixed my hatch release in back.