Door sag

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Squirrelsmith

Squirrelsmith

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I'm down to just a few drips, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. I think my striker is so worn down that it is a part of the problem as well. going to replace that and see if that does anything for me
 

homesick

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I'm down to just a few drips, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. I think my striker is so worn down that it is a part of the problem as well. going to replace that and see if that does anything for me

LOL It might be easier to move to Arizona.

joe
 
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Squirrelsmith

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I replaced the striker pin and im undecided if it has done anything. The door still shuts like crap i think i need to replace the latch mechanism that grabs the striker but its kind of costly. I also have no idea if it would do anything for my leak
 

liquify33

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no I did not
Is it straight?
Both of mine were factory and bent to heck. Driver was about 40 degrees bent where the roller connects to the gear on the door.

In hindsight I should have done the bushings also, it would have made that job MUCH easier with the door off/loose
 
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Squirrelsmith

Squirrelsmith

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Is it straight?
Both of mine were factory and bent to heck. Driver was about 40 degrees bent where the roller connects to the gear on the door.

In hindsight I should have done the bushings also, it would have made that job MUCH easier with the door off/loose
visually they are straight
 

Sean James

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When I rolled mine while 4-wheelin, it worked perfect while upside-down. We flipped it over and the doors were sagging again. GM's door hinges, like their 4L60's are a weak link.
 

alpinecrick

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When I rolled mine while 4-wheelin, it worked perfect while upside-down. We flipped it over and the doors were sagging again. GM's door hinges, like their 4L60's are a weak link.

Just put wheels on your roof, drive upside down and your doors won't sag........

Factory 4L60E's last roughly 150k, depending on maintenance, use, and abuse. That's 50% longer than most TH350's back in the day that the 4L60 is based on.

The problem seems to be a lot of these rebuilds don't seem to last very long at all--somebody ain't doing something right.

The trick to the 4L60E's is to keep the fluid red and as cool as possible. That means cutting the recommended service interval in half--at least--and making sure it has an adequate trans cooler. The coolers that came on the GMT 400's (many 2wd pickups, vans, Tahoes, etc, did not come with a cooler) are the stacked plate design and are actually pretty good. But if the vehicle tows or drives in the mountains a bigger cooler is a good idea.

Buying a trans pan with a drain plug, or installing a drain plug, and draining 3 qts (shallow pan) or 4.5 qts (deep pan) of ATF every 10K or so goes a long way towards keeping the fluid red.
 

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